Just got a P7 M8 NIB :)
 

He shoots and scores! New in box with 2 mags, $1100.00!!! (i put a deposit on it today)

Now i'll have two P7's. Oh happy days!!!

LOL....

Actually, in this case I think you scored, and then you will shoot!

You should sell the first one. To me.

Where? CDNN? There's one locally done in NP3 for around $1450, which is also a good deal.

I saw it at one of the local gunshops ive been going to for close to 20 years. The pistol is a consignment item. I put a deposit on it and should have it paid for next week, but it's going right out for mag-na-porting and night sights right away. I doubt i'll mess with the finish since it's 100%, i'll just add a set of the gorgeous nill grips and fill the lettering in nice high gloss white paint(i love that look, and it's really easy to apply the paint yourself).

The PSP i have i'll carry until the M8 comes back from getting the work done. I expect it will be gone for at least 30-45 days getting the work done to it.

At that point im not sure what i'll do with my P7 PSP, but if i decide to sell it i will let you know Jyl. I got it for $500, so i'd sell it to a fellow pelican for the same price, plus whatever the FFL/transfer/shipping costs are.

I may just keep it for a day carry gun since the finish is not perfect, for times when i don't feel like carrying any extra magazines. The M8's only real advantage is the US style mag release (and it's collector value- these pistols are normally $1300+) and heat shield. The US mag release means a lot in a "combat gun", but not so much for a "hold out" gun. It's a real bummer the mags aren't interchangeable btw. M8 and PSP though.

As nice as the M8's are, I wouldn't want that kind of cash tied up in a carry gun. If you ever have to use it, you are gonna lose it. I'm not willing to lose a gun than costs more than about half what an M8 costs.

But then there are smoking deals out there. I got a CPO (new looking) P220 Carry for $476 out the door last November. Found it on Gunbroker and it happened to be in a shop in Phoenix. I rushed down there and grabbed it.

If i ever have to use the gun on a bad guy they'll give it back after the investigation is over, and i have NO PROBLEM relying on a firearm that expensive when it's my life that's riding on the line.

To me my life is definitely worth the approx $1600.00 i'll have invested in the pistol when all is said and done. I may very well have to rely on my firearm for my life in my line of work, which is something you probably haven't considered.

A life-saving gun is absolutely priceless. I'm just saying, $600 can get you a very easily replaced, 110% reliable carry gun. There's a pretty painful story on SIGforum about a guy from Philly who didn't even clear leather when a homeless bum rushed him with a knife. Bum called the cops before the CCW'er did. He not only went to jail, but had all his guns confiscated. Took him years and mucho $$ to get it fixed. What the law says and how it works are two very different things.

The difference between me and the guy in the story is that i know some people.

I had the city confiscate one of my firearms many many moons ago once, after i was forced to pull it on a guy. The cop was a total ass and made a HUGE deal out of it, but they gave it back after they'd done ballistics testing on it.

Another time my cousin opened fire on a couple guys that i was chasing (after one pulled a knife on me). They took him to the station, questioned him, released him and gave him his gun back within a matter of hours. (Frankly, i was stunned).

My last carry gun was a well north of $1000.00 S&W custom hybrid. I carried that for well over 10 years without any incidents.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ardSideRT1.jpg

I know what you're saying can happen, but to me, i'll take my chances. There are very few sidearms that really float my boat- the P7 is one of them.

I was thinking about this exact setup on one of my P7's. What do you think?

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...44a3effc_b.jpg

Cool, I'd be happy if it works out.

On the finish, you guys seem to like shiny (or at least some shiny) while most "combat" firearms are black. What is the thinking there? Do you think shiny vs black matters, maybe it is purely aesthetic preference?

It's purely aesthetic my friend.

If i was going to deploy to Afghanistan with it, i'd be getting it refinished in extreme duty desert tan.

But i'm not. ;)

I'll let you know about the P7 PSP when i get the M8 back. It will probably be about 2 months.

Here's a couple of pics of my PSP as it appears right now. The gun is very tight, extremely accurate, and has about a 90%+ finish:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../PelicanP7.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...r/000_0112.jpg

For a carry gun, I want a finish that's gonna withstand all abuse. My P239 spends a lot of time in the small of my sweaty back, as I wear full gear when I ride and ride every summer day here. The NP3 not only resists all corrosion, it's also very slippery and doesn't require any lube. I love the look of black guns too. I got dumped off my motorcycle once into a pile of prickly pear cactus and rocks, my P220 on my right hip. I felt it hit a rock hard when I landed. But I could find no mark on it all.

If i go two-tone i'll get the frame and the controls done in NP3.

I'm still not entirely sure what exact look i want to go for.

If you're gonna ship it to Robar at all, you might as well have them do the slide in Roguard if you want it black. That's as impervious as NP3 and it'll all be done at once. Remember though, refinishing usually increases tolerances.

That would depend on the finish, wouldn't it?

Whats one of these weigh, Snipe?

I've been looking into a new subcompact, but wanting something light- thinking Glock 28. I've recently fallen in love with the 'plastic guns.

The P7 is all steel. Compact, but definitely not light. (maybe 33oz's or so? if you really want to know i can look in the manual) But the weight is a non-issue with a quality holster, at least in my opinion. I've carried much larger and heavier firearms in the past quite comfortably.

On the flip side, the P7 has perhaps the most foolproof and fastest safety system ever devised. And P7s are just flat out ridiculously accurate pistols. They're also very expensive if you want an "M" series P7. The PSP's on the other hand are very reasonably priced.

As an aside, i really dislike glocks, as i view them to be based on a fundamentally unsafe design principle- short (and often quite light) trigger with no manual safety. The AD rate with those weapons speaks for itself.

There are some REALLY nice 1911 lightweight alternatives out there you might want to consider. My brother has a 1911 S&W scandium model that's MUCHO nice. It's also mucho expensive though...

I'e head this about the glock safeties before. All I know is that in past experiences with them I've always felt confident shooting them. Another tupperware gun that came to mind is a P99, or the slightly more (metal) traditional PPK. Enough stopping power with the .40 (or, in the PPK's case, a 380) yet still light. I'm not sold on the reliability of the newer Walthers.


I'm all for the ruggedness, reliability, and safety card that is a 1911... but finding those qualities in a lightweight subcompact polymer gun ... well.. they do seem chinced on don't they?

MY friend has had a P99 Walther for about 10 years- he loves it. I would definitely pick a P99 (or almost anything) over a glock.

http://www.aceros-de-hispania.com/im...air-pistol.jpg

I'm a 1911 fanboy (hate tupperware), but those little HK's are mean and stupidly accurate. I wouldn't mind grabbing one. Let us all know if/when you put your PSP on the chopping block sniper, you'll probably have it sold to someone on here inside of an hour.

Check out the newer HK P2000 series. They are pricey though, run single and double action, plastic frame, steel slide, super nice. The SIG Pro series and P-250 also warrant a look. I stole my SIG Pro 2340 for under $300. Traded it for a Remington 700.

Will do HHI944.

I haven't shot the new HKs yet rick, but the Sigs are fantastic pieces of art. Unfortunately they're not real left hand friendly so they're not an option for me.

This is the very first group i shot with my P7 PSP:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...holepsprt1.jpg

The SIG P250 is DAK, as far as I know. Should be ambi. Can't remember how the slide catch works. The frame is not the interchangeable or serialized part. Very weird gun, but can be swapped to several calibers very easily. My wife has a Walther P-22, excellent gun.

The slide release on most Sigs is in a terrible location for a lefty. I don't think i've ever handled a P250 though.

Looks sweet. Let me know.

I have a silver gun (Detonics CombatMaster in polished stainless) and sometimes I have trouble seeing the front sight which is integral with the slide and thus also silver. Doesn't matter since it is not a precision shooter anyway. That is a gun I am saving for some gunsmithing someday. Would like to have a grip safety added, built up to be extra wide where the web of your shooting hand takes all the recoil (ouch). It is my only 1911. I do not feel comfortable carrying it cocked with only the manual safety that could potentially be wiped "off".

The best front sight I've ever seen was on a Walther target pistol. Big crisp black post perfectly framed in the rear notch. Trigger was so light and crisp, it broke like a thin strand of glass, with almost no pull at all. Obviously not a carry weapon, with that trigger and no safety.

Jyl: Carefully paint the front sight blade ramp of your Detonics flat black with an artists brush. That will help immensely. If the sights are pinned/staked or dovetailed in you can just buy Trijicon tritium night sights though (after re-reading your post i see it's integral). You could also send the entire slide out and have the tritium capsules installed by Trijicon. I swear by them. A competent gunsmith could also remove the integral sight and stake in a new front post.

For the beavertail grip safety, there are so many custom units on the market odds are one would be very close to what you're looking for without additional custom filling.

To me carrying a Glock is like carrying a 1911 with the safety off- on purpose. To me it's just craziness.

I love a good trigger pull, it's one of the absolute strengths of the P7 pistols. The factory trigger pull is almost orgasmic.

BTW, I spoke with a Trijicon rep here at the NRA annual meeting. She said they replace the tritium gas capsules in their sights for around $50, which sure beats the hell out of the cost of new ones if you have a sight pusher tool. I'm on my second set on one of my P220's.

Shot these along side others- amazing feel for the price. Some people think they are too small but I liked it. Ammo picky due to the action requiring some energy to feed correctly, but good ammo solved that.

I need to find a P99 to shoot to compare- I assume they are build similar to the P22's as far as materials go.

I wouldn't mind picking up a P22 as a plinker just because, in my hands, it felt perfectly formed. Not alotta boom for a carry gun. I wish they made a .380 version - they used to make barrel kits for PPK's that went back and forth between 22 and 380...

The CombatMaster front sight is integral with (milled from) the slide. I'll try the paint. The rear sight is a problem. It is a flat blade of metal held into the base with a set screw. The idea was that you could have interchangeable blades with different heights for elevation adjustment. But the recoil throws the blades out of the base and the blades are snaggy. I want to have that fixed, replaced with a proper rear sight, a Novak or something. Someday.

The grip safety would need custom work. The CM did not originally have a grip safety so it is not a drop-in job. It can be done though.

I got almost 15 years out of the trijicons on my S&W. Unfortunately the P7s came with 5 different height front posts, so it is HIGHLY reccomended that you send your entire slide to Trijicon to let them insert their tubes into your existing sights to keep the sights on target.

$50.00 for an entire set of replacement tubes is a fantastic price.

If they made the P-22 in .32 or .380 i'd buy one in a heartbeat for a summer carry piece.

Hey Jyl, just gave "your" P7 a little face lift.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...er/P7WL1-1.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...iper/P7WL0.jpg

Amazing how much eyeball a few cents worth of paint adds to a firearm, innit?

How do you apply the paint? I'd like to do that to one of my guns.

It only works with some finishes, it has to be a smooth hard finish. If it has a rough surface or is porous, it wont work well (or will take a LOT of effort). Blued guns work the best. You can do silver guns too. Red or Orange paint is most visible on those.

In any case, it's a simple process. Buy yourself some appliance touch up paint, bright white enamel (this stuff is mucho resistant to cleaning products). Simply dab the paint on with a small brush to totally fill the lettering, then wipe the paint off with soft toilet paper. The letters will stay filled, and the paint on the surface will wipe right off. If you have residue after wiping, just gently rub the area with wet scotchbrite pad.(the green semi-coarse stuff on the back side of a kitchen sponge). The "HK P7" on the grips was the only part that was tricky, because it's plastic. Plastic can be a real ***** because it's often an uneven surface. If you get an area that doesnt want to give up the leftover film, carefully apply some nailpolish remover to a q-tip and rub it until the excess paint residue comes off.

Once you get the hang of it, it takes a matter of minutes to do it. :)

Just be sure to wait a good week before you use any chemicals/cleaning products/oils on the firearm.

I'm doing my M4 now, then my Savage 1905 .32 auto. I'll post pix of them when done.

OK, here's the Savage .32 auto....

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...emodel1905.jpg

This one has a nice hi polish blue finish, so it took literally 30 seconds to do. (I'll wait a day and ad another coat)

The AR

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...iper/ARWL0.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...iper/ARWL1.jpg

This is the one I have arriving next week.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252027635.jpg

This is the build I'm planning. All parts are in the mail.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252027737.jpg

brownells sells the crayons with multiple color flavors. dirt cheap like $3.

i have accented some of mine also.

on others just highlighted the "S" and "F". S with white and F with red.

red yer dead=bang!

i found wiping a light cloth with barely any hoppes solvent over area to be colored and then rubbing small amts of crayon, then wiping again lighty with hoppes does the trick. a tooth pick sometimes helps or a machinist's scribe.


looks cool m-21. did the same with all of my hks. MUY BUENO GROUP!

Looks nice Rick. My brother's Colt HBAR has those same handguards, they're really sweet. I'm going to go with the Hogue overmolded furntire though. Love the look of those.

Also going to add a frame wedge, an ambi safety, and a match grade trigger group. It's damn accurate now, so with a nice light match trigger it should be stupid accurate...like my P7. :D

Hey do you guys know if anyone makes an ambi mag-release for ARs?

Here they are both done:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...iper/ARHK2.jpg

So i got the P7 M8, took it to the range and fired it alongside my PSP.

The PSP shot circles around the M8- it was significantly more accurate. I sold the P7 M8 within 24 hours for a $200 dollar profit, and my PSP is now on it's way to Trijicon to get night sights installed.

By the way, i did rapid fire 6 mags through the P7 M8 at the fastest possible speed. 49 rounds of standard pressure FMJ.

Oh yeah, that son of a ***** gets hot. LOL....

Of course i only have 3 mags for my PSP so it's a total non-issue in the real world.