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I also recommend going completely stock. The VW world is rife with people's customizations and interpretations, but there properly-done stock restos are few and far between. |
Never go to a Porsche site to ask about VW's :rolleyes: hehe
'66 was not the last year for 5-lug, '67 was. '68 was the first year for 4-lug. (speaking of USA market cars here) Unlike what was posted earlier, none of these used Porsche brakes. 67 is a good year if you like the older styling with 12V electrics, but honestly most older cars have been updated to 12V by now and its a small job to update if it hasnt already been done. Hardly a deal breaker. '67 does have a lot of one year parts, but none of these are too hard to find since '67 was also one of the best selling years in VW history. (I have three '67 decklids in my attic that I would happily sell for $50 each.) One post says that an 1835 is a good combo, yet a 2180 is pushing it too far when in fact both of these engines are built using 92mm cylinders which are traditionally thought to be too thin walled to maintain a good ring seal. The difference between an 1835 and a 2180 is the stroke of the crank which all other things being equal will have no impact on reliability. Point being - if you want reliable VW info, go to a VW forum and lurk long enough to figure out who knows what they are talking about and who dont. The Samba seems to attract a lot of kids who talk above thier experience...but that may be a false impression. I have always liked www.Cal-Look.com although that is primarily a performance oriented site. You can obsess over the minutia of what year car had what feature, but ...is a VW! Most of them have been either bastardized or updated by now anyway! :D I would guess that 75% of all running VWs have dual port enigines in them now despite the year becuase why would you ever rebuild one with single port heads?!?!? :) Aside from that, my suggestion is to look for the most solid, rust-free, un-hit beetle that you can find....whatever the year. Sounds like this is a short term project, so its not like you are living with it the rest of your life. 67 and earlier cars will always bring more money when you sell...but frankly you are not going to get rich off of any of them. Engines, trannies, etc etc are somewhat inconsequential beacause they are cheap to rebuild or buy. |
Lurk in the classifieds of www.thesamba.com until you find a good candidate. Any year up to 1967 should do. Get one with a good body and minimal rust, all the parts, and the original engine. Restore to all original.
I once restored a 1959 convertible, and had a great time. When I sold it, I broke even. The fact that the '59 was 6 volt was not a problem, as I restored it to original. It's when you start installing fancy stereos and other nonsense that the 12V system becomes necessary. If you don't plan on driving it much in the rain or at night, 6V is fine. I'd like to restore an old bus someday. |
What are you going to do with it when you are done?
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Thanks for the replies. I really want to further my automotive and mechanic skills while fixing up a cool car. Another 911 works for this as well, but with the kids and everything else right now, I think a bug is better suited to this end. When I'm done, I met sell the car, but if I did a good job, I'd probably keep it. I tend to stick to one or two things that work and keep them. I still have the same car I had in college.
Who is the Pelican Parts of the VW world for parts? I'm aware of the Samba, but it is pretty huge for the noob. Some of you guys are saying yes to Super Beetles and some are saying absolutely not. What is the split about? I love the car you posted Thom. I like the old flat panel metal dash and super simple car. I don't need AC for this one. I will likely just return it to stock condition because I don't know any better. What are some good books for pointing out all the individual features of each model year? |
A lot of people are under the misapprehension that the strut suspension has problems. It only does if it is in bad condition
Check it(not just SB content) http://www.superbeetles.com/ NB tech talk with Rick, and high perf 101 |
I had a '65 Baja with a 2110 back in '87...
Loved it. KT |
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The reason I prefer pre-super beetle cars is just because of the vintage and collectibility factor. The older ones are cooler. I also prefer early 911s, even though they are less comfortable to drive. As for a book, this question on the samba will get you answers. |
I really want to further my automotive and mechanic skills while fixing up a cool car.
It is for this reason I think you should consider a stock resto on an oval or early bigwindow (58-61). If you just want a driver, then get a super and knock yourself out, but paint, body etc on a super are the same as an oval, but if you take the time to restore a super, when you're done, you'll still have a $1500 car. |
If i was an obscenely rich man like Bill Gates i would make it my personal mission to buy, and then destroy, every VW Bug ever made.
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Why do you feel compelled to be a troll? Did a Beetle kick your 928's ass?
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My brother drives a 52 Bug every day as he goes to and from work. He has had it for 30 years.
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As others have said, research, reseach & more reseach, pick Thom's brain, as he is clearly the true brain trust here who has done what you want, others of us have, but not the number or level of what Thom has done.. You like big windows or little, me, I would love to have a 55 with a sliding sunroof (last year for the big roof, 63 I think) 57s have a slightly larger rear window and again, as others have pointed out, Supers can be turned into some bad ass track cars since the 924 front susp was based off the Super, 68 & up (Autostick/IRS rear susp) is a bolt on for 944 rear control arms & brakes.. The key is to know what you want & use is for, Baja Bugs are a blast & not to much $$$ to build, if you want to go offroad, do you want stock, retro, sleeper, or wild?? You have Cal Look & German Look. Pick up a Hot Vws Magazine and check it out, reseach for a bit, try & go to some VW shows, see if there are any local clubs to check out rides.. BITD, before all the really good stuff was out, the rule was a 69 for a driver, but only you know what you want.. I would be torn between a Super Sleeper & a 55 Rag on a IRS pan.. Another question, do you want a Bug, Bus, Gia Thing, or Notch??? Things are super cool too.. Remember, ask questions, then ask more.... |
A '65 beetle is why I ended up with a Porsche. I had a '65 that I absolutely loved. I had it painted, had a new interior installed, a 1776 motor (I understood that was the largest without machining the case), and a sun roof. I dearly loved cranking the sunroof open & driving that car to work & eveywhere else. One Sunday morning, it wasn't in my driveway - stolen! That's when I bought my '67 912 (which I loved too). I really might end up with another one someday.
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I'll constrain my search to 58-61's unless I figure out that I like something better. |
I must have done a million miles with this view.
Great, simple, trouble-free motoring. And these little buggers have a lot of charm and personality—even though a lot of glaciers are faster. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252952493.jpg |
The 72 is nice, its the first year SB and last year flat windshield, still carbbed but with the nice struts.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...mmer91/bug.jpg |
Old Bugs....gotta love 'em. If it's a weekend cruiser you're after, I'd pick a '58 thru '63 model with the big cloth sunroof, or if you're bucks-up, maybe a convertible. These have the classic look but don't command the higher prices of the older models. In '64, the sunroof changed to a sliding metal panel and the smaller "pope's nose" license plate light grew larger. In '65, the side & rear windows got bigger. In '67, the fenders, headlights & deck lid changed. While '67 was the first year for 12V electrics, most earlier cars can easily be converted to 12V. Quite a few one-year-only parts on a '67, too. From a styling point of view, I'd pass on anything '68 & newer. In addition to the big ugly bumpers, this is the year that safety & emissions requirements started influencing design (not just for VWs but for all cars). These newer cars do drive better but you can't beat the '50s & early '60s cars for their classic look.
As said by others, be patient and look for a car with minimal rust or body damage. Anything else is easily fixed. These cars are very easy to restore and you can practically take the entire thing apart with a Swiss Army knife. Parts are easy to come by and you can buy nearly every little widget and what-not from a catalog or website. For hard parts, try aircooled.net or cip1.com. For rubber & trim look to westcoastmetric.com. For upholstery, check out sewfine.com. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252963161.jpg Take your time & have fun! |
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http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/Home_Page.htm |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252978756.jpg
If you wanna practice your metal skills, how about something like this |
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