Woodworkers - I need a table saw. Recommendations?

[david914]

I want to start building some cabinets and bookcases and I would like to buy a decent table saw. Problem is, I have a very small shop (11'x11') and will need to wheel the saw out into the carport or backyard in order to use it. The doors to my shop are 32" (31" opening) so I am limited to a saw that will fit through the door without major disassembly. So far, my thoughts have been leaning toward the Bosch 4100-09 with the gravity rise stand, but for that kind of money (~$600), I could buy a decent contractor saw, but again, the problem is moving the thing in and out of the shop. Any suggestions?

[gassy]

I've had my eye on this one for a while for the same reasons you listed:

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?client=safari&rls=en&q=ridgid+table+saw&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=18068575612701865760&ei=m-C2Sr2KG5SwNqGL5doO&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4#ps-sellers

[gassy]

I've seen it at Home Depot for $450

[david914]

Yep, that's the same type of saw as the Bosch. I'm just curious if there's a better way, such as a contractor/hybrid/cabinet saw that has removable wings that would allow it to fit through one of my doors. I've been ogling the Grizzly 1023 cabinet saw for a few years, but the table is too big for my space.

[9dreizig]

Milt?????

[david914]

Originally Posted by 9dreizig

Milt?????

Last I heard, Milt decided to leave us for awhile. He'd have had some good advice I'm sure.

[idontknow]

Maybe you need a bigger shop. On a useful note, I have the 10" portable one from Dewalt and it works great. Just make sure to keep the telescoping arms on the fence cleaned or it'll gum up fast.



http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Bench-Stationary-Tools/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg4Zbaup/R-100497987/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

[RWebb]

Fine Woodworking rates tools periodically.

The link posted is to a "contractor saw" which is a portable, low precision version of a cabinet based table saw.

IIRC, FW found one contractor saw that was ok -- nearly as good as a cabinet type table saw. But generally, they are not as good.

The fence is the real issue -- you want a mega-buck fence on the sucka. Some buy up old used Deltas and then put a high-buck fence on them -- said to be a good combo.

[msk1986911]

I'd go for the Ridgid, either the portable model, or, space permitting, the full size saw. Both appear to be well built, based on reviews I've seen. The portable seems to be very stable; not a lightweight (functionally speaking) tool at all. I've been thinking about upgrading my current saw to one of the Ridgid's, but will probably wait until it finally gives up the ghost.

[gassy]

Here's some advice Milt had on a previous table saw thread:

[look 171]

I don't know what the Grizzly 1023 is, but I started building cabinets and doing woodworking in my parent's garage during college. I had a Grizzly contractor's saw. That saw put me through me through college. It is the one with the motor hanging off the back. I forget what the belt is call but it reduces virbration as compare to the standard belt that drives the arbor. I think its call the Link belt. Rockler sells them. Worth the small $$. You can get that saw through the door if you take the top of the saw off the stand and go through it side way. We use to do it all the time on th job. A good fence will makes all the difference in the world. Now I have a full blown shop and we really like the Mikita portable saws with a Rosssoue (sp?) table extension and fence system. The guys like to take it on the job. If we need to do many cuts on the jobs then we just drag out the Powermatic 66 saw along with us and leave it for the rest of the job. someone had a Bosch saw on one of my jobs and I had a chance to use it and it is a fine tool. Heavy, not so good if you have to drag it around.

[Talewinds]

For cabinets and the like?
Dewalt Track-Saw.....

[dad911]

Try to find a Ryobi BT3000 or 3100. Even though I have an old cast iron sears with a Delta Uni-fence, most of the time I roll out the Ryobi. Plus it is light enough to put in the back of the truck and take it with me. It has a decent fence that clamps in the back, sliding miter table, and built it router table.

If this is an occasional job, you could also get 50" and 100" saw/router guides/clamps, and consider having the lumber ripped to proper sizes by the supplier. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16448&cookietest=1

[T77911S]

you want one with a good fence.
a bigger shop would be nice, but how about just a bigger door?
i got one of the big delta's, they were around $600 about 8 years ago, got for $200. we met this guy that goes around to lowes and home depot and buys all there close out stuff. he bought several of these in a box and this one was already put together and he did not want to haul it back home. (thats what i told the police at least)

i made my own portable stand so i could roll it around. very easy and cheap.
i will try and post a pic later, but here is what i did.
i bolted a piece of wood to each side of the stand. i attached another piece to that one with hinges. on the hinged piece, i bolted wheels to it. i lift up on one end of the saw and flip the wheels around and under it, then do the same on the other side. i drilled a whole thru both pieces to drop a bolt thru because if the concrete is rough, it will flip around on you.

[EarlyPorsche]

I want one too. I like the older stuff I see on craigslist because it looks heavy duty american made compared to todays chinese crap.

[T77911S]

Originally Posted by EarlyPorsche

I want one too. I like the older stuff I see on craigslist because it looks heavy duty american made compared to todays chinese crap.

if you get the bigger ones they are good. i have my grandads craftsman TS that is about 60-70 years old. the belt drive one they sold 10 years ago looked idntical to his, as far as the drive system goes. the thing i like about the old saw is i can cut through a 4x4 the first time, with my delta it only cuts about 3 inches.

the delata i have has a very nice fence, almost looks like the bysemer(?) fence that is very expensive.

[turbo6bar]

Go big or go home. Get the largest saw you can manage and get a good fence.

Is the Bosch big enough to rip plywood for the cabinet boxes?

I like the idea of letting the supplier rip your sheet goods.

Don't forget the quality saw blade. You can't go wrong with Forrest, but a designated set of blades from any maker will work well.

[RWebb]

yes -- bigg bigggg door might be just the ticket

a small garage door may be the thing

PS - wood sellers here will rip ply & lumber but it is not cabinet grade work & they are clear on that

[LWJ]

My $.02. Get a well made used saw. The table won't wear out (cast iron) and the motor shouldn't either. Case in point, my saw cost me $50. I had to remove a little rust scale but it came with two dado blades and a bunch of other stuff. Mine is a mid-line craftsman. I would have no problem making cabinets with it. A better fence would be a bonus however.

Also, Norm on The New Yankee Workshop (or whatever the name is) recommends waxing the surface with paste wax. I did and WOW, slick, smooth, and nice!

Good luck.
Larry

[look 171]

If they rip it I am sure isn't square. Of course you have to sq it up when you get back. You may as well do it your self with a simple jig and a skill saw. I have done that for years.