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Thinking of building an Assault spoon..
Just a matter of getting the $$$
Thinking a Cav15 composite stock/lower, 18" barrel w/flattop tritium sights for the basics... Looking at RRA the only 18" complete uppers are the Airgauged stainless bull barrels.... Is this going to be seriously front heavy? Throw some links at me... Not looking for a tack driver.... Just something that will make a respectable group and be reliable... |
Liking this upper..... just worried about being way nose heavy...
Model 1 Sales Also... How much of a premium to feed it 6.8? |
The weight is only really an issue if you're going to carry it any great distances. What is the intended use of the spoon? If it's just a range gun, make it as heavy as you want and put it on a Harris bi-pod.
Front heavy is not necessarily a bad thing, as it does help to tame muzzle climb, which, with a 6.8mm, you are going to have. |
Range gun, plinking, varmint hunting, and I might be taking a Tac Carbine class here at the university in the fall. Its a class taught by OHP troopers and aimed at kids going into law enforcement....
I'd just be taking it for hours/fun... |
I'm looking into taking a tactical rifle class. The one closest to me recomends bringing 2,000 rounds.
As a reloader, that's a lot of brass to leave at the range! |
I'm going to talk to the instructor pretty soon. I'll enroll even if I don't haver spoon yet. My room mate says I can borrow one of his if needed. He won't be using them. He'll be in afghanistan by then
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damn, i want to go back to college now!
i want a Socom 16. the longer, heavier scout version. |
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When the spooks get wind of the title of this post, we may not be hearing much from you so remember: cockroaches are a great source of protein, blood in your pee is bad, don't try to resist the injections - it only makes it worse.
Its been nice knowing ya kid! |
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WTF are you talking about mike?
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6.8 is at least a buck a round so you may want to stick with 5.56. If you want something biger just get an AR10 and it will be cheaper to shoot than the 6.8 by far.
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what about a 7.62? i have been thinking about one over the 5.56.
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Good to know... My roomie was the on pushing for 6.8... I really have no need for a round that hot...
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There is little in the way of a 'tactical threat' that needs killing that cannot be killed with Mk262 Mod1 5.56mm ammo. |
Model 1 Sales
What about that? Not sure if its worth paying the premium for stainless.... Would pay up for the YHM 4 rail guard and a 4rail gas block.... |
Also.... anybody got any suggestions on trigger groups? Iron sights? Thinking the tritium ones I've seen around here....
Should I pay the 120 for the standard carrier and charge handle from Model 1? Any other options? Anybody goodies they'd make me a deal on? |
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6.8 is probably not going to be around for very long, it failed to win the Army contract. Stainless is not really neccesary, and chrome lined standard ordnance steel barrels last longer, but if you like the look, then by all means lay out the money for SS. It is a personal decision. The heart of the spoon is the trigger. I highly suggest laying out a couple hundred on a match grade trigger assy. It makes a world of difference. Beyond that, just make sure you get an AR with the improved M-4 feed ramps and a chrome lined barrel/bore and forward assist. All the rest of the stuff is entirely optional, these few things i just mentioned are the "must have" items. A 1/7" twist barrel is also a nice feature. |
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The mere mention of building an assault anything will raise suspicion and put you on a 'list'. Provide them an excuse to pursue and they will... |
Its just an AR mike... They are classified as Assault rifles...
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Anyone interested in the FN SCAR? I don't see much talk about it.
I still want a FN-FAL and the FN SCAR makes the DS FALs look inexpensive. |
I have a RRA 2 Stage trigger and I think you would like it for the price(around $100-120). For your lower, just get a DPMS lower parts kit and any stripped lower(preferably aluminum). The weight difference between a plastic lower and a aluminum is very little.
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CavArms is no longer manufacturing lowers. BATFE basically harrassed them out of business.
If you see one of their lowers for sale, grab it. I have two, and think they're great. Ugly, but feel great and fit tight. I would recommend against a heavy upper to go with a lightweight lower (like the Cav). Barrel-heavy guns have their uses but a Cav is much better utilized by building a lightweight carbine out of it. 6.8 SPC is way ex$pensive. 6.5 Grendel even more so. I'd stick with 5.56/.223 or 7.62NATO/.308. Be mindful these are different platforms--AR15 vs AR10. The FN SCAR is a nice unit, but I'm not convinced it's worth the price. The Bushmaster ACR (formerly the Magpul Masada) is even less so. You can build a hell of an AR for $2k. I have two RRA triggers and a Timney 3# in my .308. The Timney blows the RRA out of the water for an extra $50-60. |
Brownells still shows the Cav lower in black... Maybe I should order it in the next few days...... I've got the $$ for that part...
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I think i used a McCormick drop in trigger assy in mine. It's also 3#, with a creep free pull and very crisp release.
The trigger is the very heart of any spoon. A spoon is only as good as it's trigger pull. |
On a budget look up DSA uppers. I think $375 for a complete upper. Spikes still has lowers for $89. DPMS lower parts kit is GTG for about $55. For a general purpose rifle the DPMS trigger will be just fine. You can also send the hammer and trigger to Bill Springfield for a tuning, $35 I think.
Chromelined barrels are nice but most civilians will never wear out a melonite or nitrite barrel, especially a college student. Ammo is expensive. 1/9 barrels tend to be cheaper than 1/7 barrels and you really don't need a 1/7 barrel. Spend another $15 and buy an M16 MP tested BCG from Spikes ($135). Shop the used or new parts classifieds on AR15.com and collect parts on the cheap. Or just buy a complete CMMG bargain bin rifle. |
A chrome lined chamber is a lot less likely to suffer an extraction malfunction if dirty.
A 1:7 barrel lets you fire every 5.56mm round on the market. A good, crisp trigger pull is the single easiest way to reduce group sizes. Do you "need" any of them? No. But if you're going to spend money on options, those are the options that return the most bang for the buck. |
3# Timneys are $179 at MidwayUSA...I don't think you'll find a better deal anywhere.
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The McCormick is also very good, and about $15 bucks cheaper (at least it was on the site where i bought mine), IIRC.
http://weaponparts.storesecured.com/...20good-C1C.jpg Both are very good units, and worth every penny if shooting small groups is your aim. (hahaha) |
http://accurateshooter.net/Blog/timneyar15skelx350.jpg
You know you're lusting for it. ;) Actually Timney is local to me and I'm a big fan of their customer support. CMC's have gone up in price. Most large outfits are selling them in the $220-250 range. You'll find some smaller shops selling them online for $180-190. |
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Don't be silly, he's on a budget.
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Ya... I could buy a bargain bin one... But that's not mine... And ya I can't afford to throw tons of ammo down it now. Doesn't mean I won't be able to when I get my PharmD. I'm on a budget. But also willing to pay up for quality
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I really, really, really want a Kel-Tec RFB.
But I'm going to get myself an AR-50 first... |
When you have more cash, you'll buy more rifles....
IMO the high end ARs are not that far ahead in quality than the mid pack. One can build one that's on par with the high end stuff and save a little cash. You'll have fun at the range with a $500 rifle just the same as a $2000 rifle. Quote:
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This thread reminds me, I still have to finish sighting in my new carbine spoon. I may hit the range tomorrow.
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That price is absolutely insane IMO. Don't forget to factor the price of magazines into the build. |
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