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Need mechanical help...for my boat
Hi. I was hoping to get some mechanical help for my 2004 Sea Ra 220 Sundeck. It's got a 5.0L Mercruiser engine with fuel injection and a Bravo III outdrive.
The story... This morning the fam and I hopped into the boat and drove to our favorite hangout spot about 20 minutes away. Had a nice day and when it was time to leave, I started the boat (no problems), let it warm up a few minutes, pulled the anchor and began to drive off. I had to navigate though the 100s of boats still anchored, so I was going as slow as possible. About 3 minutes into our journey (still going as slow as the boat would go), the boat stalled and wouldn't start back up. I tried a few times...no start. Finally, I tried pushing the button (neutral) on the throttle and tried starting it by giving it some gas and it DID START! Great. so then I let off the gas to get it out of neutral and to put it in gear. As soon as I let off the gas, it stalled again. I was able to make it back to my marina by starting the boat while reving the engine and VERY quickly putting it into gear and giving it gas. But as soon as I got to my marina where I needed to slow down to as slow as the boat would go, it would stall. So that's where I stand now. THe boat will start as long as I push the button and start it with the throttle down. Then I can lower the RPMs to as low as 840 without it stalling. But if I bring the throttle back down below 840 RPMs, it will stall. So in summary, the boat runs great above 840 RPMs (whether in neutral or in gear). But if the boats RPMs drop below that (whether in neutral or in gear) it will stall. Any mechanical/boat people out there have any ideas? Thanks, John
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one of gods prototypes
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kinda sounds like a fuel flow problem......fuel filter starting to clog? inboard fuel tank? water in the fuel? not real familiar with mercruisers though.....
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not sure about the fuel filter. what i didn't mention was that the fuel level is lower than it usually is. The gauge says 1/4, but to be more specific, according to the computer, I've burned 34 gallons (50 gal tank) so I should still have about 16 gals left.
My fuel/water separator is brand new (just replaced that this spring). The fuel filter is original. I've never touched it.
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Quote:
got the same boat.there is a filter in the fuel injection pump stainless steel screen you have to take it apart to get to it. Shops will try to sell you a new ones but easy to do it your self ed |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 739
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Although you will doubt that they are connected - check the tension on the throttle/shift cable. Over time these can move or "stretch" and the change creates the stalling issue when putting into gear. Does the familiar "clunk" when the drive engages chatter once or twice before landing firmly in gear? If so, then the cable is definitely at least part of the issue.
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i did a search at the Club Sea Ray forums, and it looks like the culprit is a bad Idle Air Controller. Apparently its a fairly common problem. $100 part, 5 minutes to change. So HOPEFULLY its that easy.
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'88 Porsche 928 S4 - LSD - Sold '88 Porsche 944 N/A - Sold |
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The internet is a wonderfull thing, I don't care what prince says.....or whatever his name is LOL
Hope that solves your issue, years ago we were on a friends boat anchored watching the cleveland air show.....he left the key on by mistake along with with battery switch on both......cost $250 just to use a jump box from a service boat......
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1.367m later
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It may be un-related also but does your boat have a CEL (Check Engine LIght)? I replaced the Idle Air Controller on my pick up but didn't clear the trouble code from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) before starting the truck after the replacement. It caused other problems that snowballed to the point where I had to replace the PCM. $200.00 problem.
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 10,768
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I know nothing about your boat/engine combo, but FWIW, if the unit by chance is similar to BMW's idle control valves, you might simply be able to remove it and spray it out with carb cleaner as the BMW units get gunked up a bit. I have done this twice on my old 308,000 mile BMW and it fixed my erratic idle for another 50k or so.
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1.367m later
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Quote:
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. |
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Herrin Ill USA
Posts: 1,611
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Chances are also very good that the $100 IAC motor is a common $30 GM part available at just about any parts store.
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