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Heading to Yellowstone soon for 4 days - what to see? What to skip?
It's a big park. We're staying just outside the northern entrance. Any hidden gems? Anything you felt was a waste of time?
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Tetons.
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It is indeed a big park. Unless you're going to go seriously off-trail, like to climb The Thunderer or similar, I would still go see many of the attractions that draw the tourists. I watched Old Faithful with about 40,000 other people and I didn't consider it a waste. Obviously be prepared for heavy traffic and the occasional 45 minute traffic jam so Clark Griswald can stop to let his unremarkable offspring photograph a similarly unremarkable buffalo standing in the road. I can't think of any particular elements of the park that stand out extraordinarily, but the park is generally an extraordinary environment.
My opinion is that the nearby Grand Tetons are so breathtaking and commanding a spectacle, I will always cut my trips through Yellowstone a little short so I can go take in the Tetons. This is Mammoth Hot Springs, I did like this place in particular, but then again, so do the 6 million other visitors. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...IMGP3716-1.jpg |
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Four days is barely a primer. You'll see plenty no matter what you do and leave untold hundreds of things unseen.
The "rainbow" pools (due to all kinds of weird bacteria) are pretty amazing things to see. One of my favorites was the Imperial Geyser. Tetons are amazing - pretty much everything there is amazing. One of my truly favorite places on earth. You'll love it. |
can't really answer w/o knowing more about what you like but a few tips for you:
1. get off the trails and go cross country - you will see few tourists, but beware bear & bison interactions 2. if you stop to look at bison always position a fat tourist with an small camera between you and the bison -- I almost got a great pic of a primate being gored that way 3. for popular spots, visit in the very very early am - leave before & arrive at daybreak; or go at night or twilight -- dinner time is also good - this will not completely eliminate tourists, but you will see fewer and higher quality, more interesting ones 4. there are some places you can drive to that tourists do not go -- check a map and you may find something otherwise, the place is a zoo at this time of the summer |
A lot of it was still recovering from the fire when I went, but Old Faithful was good and so was Mammoth. The big log hotel near Old Faithful is worth walking around in too. Other than that we kind of stuck to the backcountry when I was there. We also went to a waterfall over there but I don't remember its name.
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oh yeh - the burned areas are great places to see wild flowers & woodpeckers
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I'll have to scan some pics and post them up. I had such a fun time going through the Wind river range and Jellystone as a kid, that I have decided that instead of going to Europe this coming summer I will hike big sandy lake and the Cirque of the Towers this summer with the old man. Seriously, it's that beautiful. |
My thoughts:
1) You've already realized that it is a big park. Keep that in mind. You can spend a lot of time in the car if you don't plan prudently. The scenery may be nice, but there's a lot of park. Don't drive yourself crazy trying to do the whole thing. Enjoy what you can see and come back later for more if you like the park. 2) Hot springs terraces, Firehole falls, sheepeater cliff, Grand Canyon, Mud volcano area, and norris geyser basin were all favorites. 3) Old faithful is the big tourist attraction for good reason. Don't skip it on the logic that it is too touristy. 4) Wildlife is everywhere. Keep a watchout and keep your camera handy. 5) Yes, the sulfur is pungent. Stay on the paths. Have a great trip. |
We have been going there once a year for the past 6-7 years it is beautiful.
1. It is BIG so expect long drive times 2. Wildlife come out around dusk, especially bison. 3. Old Faithful cool but crowded, day hike to Mystic Falls the trailhead is at the Upper Geyser Basin. Another day hike Harlequin Lake trailhead of the road leading to west yellowstone. 4. Try and spend time in West Yellowstone cool little town, spend a day in the Tetons not as crowded, take the ferry across Jenny Lake, then hike back about 2-3 miles but beautiful. 5. DO NOT miss Lamar Valley that is where you will see the most wildlife. 6. Mount Washburn cool hike with great views. I love the place and could go on and on, enjoy yourself http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280022390.jpg Bison in Lamar Valley http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280022445.jpg Madison River http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280022506.jpg Yellowstone River http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280022558.jpg Falls at Jenny Lake, Tetons http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280022619.jpg |
Grand canyon of Yellowstone and the northern section are my favorite.
Old faithful area and Yellowstone lake area are a bit too crowded for my taste. On the northern loop you will see many different types of terrain and scenery, many times you will go around a bend and be completely surprised at what you see. It isn't just higher and deeper like the south-west area. |
We are going again in September. We got stuck in the park because of a fire last year, and had to spend 8 hours driving around to get back to Jackson. It was fun.
There is no waste of time there. It is all worth seeing. http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...9/STA71282.jpg http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...9/STA71309.jpg http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...9/STA71321.jpg http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...9/STA71335.jpg |
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Everywhere includes the porch of any cabin you might rent. Do NOT eff with the bison. |
BTW if you're camping don't forget to put all your smellables in a bear bag at night. And be careful on trails. We followed close behind a bear for a long time one morning - close enough so that the scat was still steaming. Needless to say we stopped for a while to give it some room even though we never saw the bear.
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On a trip like that, I always like to have a well stocked ice chest, food and beverages. Are you taking kids or is it all adults?
Oh, and a roll of toilet paper, just in case, even if not camping. |
I worked with this guy and YSNP was one of his favorite places to go, he's a Canadian Treaty (pure blood ) indian and he loved to hunt, he could go anywhere in Canada or the states and hunt in season or out because of his treaty card, Provincal park national or state park that treaty card allowed him to hunt anything anytime, there where a few restrictions but not many. He is one of those guys who could take a rifle and a back pack and disappear for weeks at a time, never been but its on the bucket list and I hope my buddy Jack can take me. Those pic's are great.
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AFAIC, the road from mammoth to tower-roosevelt and then down to canyon is the most scenic drive I have ever had the pleasure to enjoy. So many people go to the southern portion and completely miss the best part IMO.
This is God's country but Roosevelt loved it to. Teddy that is, not the commie. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280165169.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280165187.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280165200.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280165216.jpg |
Anyone ever hike/fish up in the slough creek area of jellystone?
Seems like the best place on the planet to do that sort of thing, assuming you have a mastiff to keep the bears away ;) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280170860.jpg |
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Don't miss the boiling river for a soak it is between Mammoth (Park HQ) and Gardner MT (North Entrance)
on the east side of the road. Used to be a secret with the locals not so much now. I spent the day float fishing on the Yellowstone river north of the park fishing Saturday, many fish landed. Take a raft trip on the YS River, many river outfitters are in Gardner MT. The Snake River south entrance is excellent as well Get off the roads and hike. Have a beer in the old faithful lodge bar. Steer clear of the critters they are really tearing up the turi this year. Park speed limit is 45 mph they take no prisoners. |
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The calendar-photo of the Grand Tetons you've seen so many times is from a spot on the side of the road down south of the park, near Jackson WY. If you get there, have a beer in the Million Dollar Cowboy Saloon. You'll see why.
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My wife and I just got back from Yellowstone last night. Expect delays on the roads due to construction between Towers Fall, the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, and Norris. We came in from the NE side from Cooke City and drove through to West Yellowstone. We had planned to make several stops along the way w/in Yellowstone but Delta had A/C trouble and we lost a day. I highly recommend looking at this website:
Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service) To be continued..... |
We rented a Harley in Billings and rode to Yellowstone via Beartooth Pass (MUST SEE....HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) through Cooke City on our way to West Yellowstone. Like I said before, we had originally planned to make a few stops w/in Yellowstone, but we shortened our stay so we could also ride through the Tetons (in the rain for two hrs) to Jackson Hole, WY. Since we didn't get wet enough on the bike, we went whitewater rafting down the Snake River (recommend renting a wet-suit...best $7 you will ever spend) with "Lewis & Clark Expeditions". Afterward, we drove through the Teton National Forest on our way to Big Sky, MT. Since we didn't think we had enough seat time, we decided to ride horses for almost four hours over one of the mountains SE of Big Sky. The next day we drove over to Chico Hot Springs to soak our sore butts in the natural hot spring pool for a few hours before heading back to Billings. Needless to say I need a vacation from my vacation. Here are a few photos....enjoy!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280199920.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280199936.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280199950.jpg For the record, we had a Bison walk up w/in two feet of us while we were on the bike and my wife was too busy trying to climb up my back to take a photo so this was as close as she got with her camera.... I might have one from my cell I'll try to post later. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280200069.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280200096.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280200114.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280200137.jpg |
Fantastic pictures in this thread, I'm going next summer. Which part of August would be better, as in less crowded?
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I just got back from Montana on Sunday and we did a 1-day in Yellowstone. As Mike said, be aware of the construction--can be up to a 1/2 hr delay. We went in the North entrance, drove through and out the West entrance to go to the bear/wolf exhibition--not too bad, but I felt it wasn''t worth the admission--then headed down to Old Faithful, then back up through and out the North.
Saw planty of wildlife--Grizzly, Bison, Elk and a herd of mountain goats in Gardiner. You really can't go wrong with whatever you decide to see and not see. Take advantage of the trailheads keep an eye peeled for wildlife--sometimes it is easy to spot based upon the multitude of vehicles pulled off the road, sometimes not so much--like the mountain lion by BIL spied. And don't be one of those fools that walks up to an animal to take a pic. Stock up on water/snacks--it was dry this past week and have fun! |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280244903.jpg Lone Peak at Big Sky MT just north of the park. |
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We met some local girls who worked there for the summer and kind of moved in with them in their employee cabin. Lots of hi-jinx ensued but that's a different post. I still remember one guy who worked at the park had a peace pipe he bought from the curio shop and he was smoking oregano thinking it was pot. Someone sold him oregano for $20 and he didn't know any better. what a maroon. Anywho, the employees of the park had a party every year where everyone showed up with a bottle of booze (didn't matter what) and poured it into a large drum and everyone drank out of it. Nasty buzz. Then we went hot-potting. They knew of some hot pot geyser/springs that were around 100 degrees or so and we stripped down and jumped in. There was a little sulfur smell but barely noticeable. That was an interesting couple of weeks. EDIT someone mentioned the million dollar cowboy saloon earlier in this thread. On the way to the park we stopped at that saloon in Jackson Hole. It was my buddy's 18th birthday so we decided to get him drunk. About a dozen southern comfort shooters later (that's what he wanted, go figure) he was laying on his back on the floor and his feet were still in the stirrups of the bar stool. That's when they asked up to go somewhere else. IIRC They had a huge stuffed grizzly bear in there, it woulda taken at least two mastiffs to chase that dude away ) |
Just saw this article, sounds like the bears got feisty up near Soda Butte.
Bear rampage kills 1, injures 2 at MT campground |
All the campgrounds in Soda Butte are closed. Very rare unprovoked attack.
MT FWP have set 5 traps to trap the offenders. This a big deal people get chewed on with regularity, but not drug out of tents and killed. |
anyone do the park in winter?
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sure - avoid the snowmobilers & be sure you have good winter travel skills & conditioning
- no bears & no skeets |
Winter in the Park on a snowmobile is one of my favorite rides. It's getting harder to do.[img]
Last trip in was blocked by 4 Bull Moose. They will kill you but will not eat you. |
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That's cool. I've only ever seen one moose in YNP and he was elusive, gone before I could ever draw my Pentax.
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Thanks for all of the input. Wow! Yellowstone should be on everyone's "bucket list." I had no idea there was so much geothermal activity there. It's truly an amazing place.
Sadly, two people died in the park while we were there and one just outside the park. The bear attack someone mentioned is the one that was just outside the park. We passed by that area the morning after it happened on our way to Billings. A fisherman slipped in fell in a river and drowned early in our trip. The day before we left we were going to swim at Firehole River. As we started to walk down the bank a woman came up in a hurry and told us someone had just died. Everyone was still swimming, but we watched from the bank above as word travelled around the area. As we left, the rangers and medics arrived on the scene. They quickly closed down that part of the park. We read today that a woman from Taiwan who didn't know how to swim had slipped under unnoticed in a 10' pool. Estimates were that she was underwater 5 minutes before someone saw her and pulled her out. A doctor and two nurses happened to be in the area and performed CPR until medics arrived. While she did regain a pulse she was pronounced dead later that evening. So... if you go, be careful! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470384.jpg I wasn't the only Pelican there... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470404.jpg Me + my family post kayaking trip... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470413.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470436.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470451.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470465.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470482.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470500.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470515.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280470544.jpg |
Did you go to Billings via Cooke City and the Beartooth HY?
Its God's country. Grew up in Billings and went fishing/ skiing in that area. |
Beartooth Pass is INCREDIBLE!
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