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coolcavaracing.com
 
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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Need help with the family car (Grand Voyager)

Thought I would post here before I spam the 911 technical forum

Our family car is a 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager - not an exciting car to drive, but great for transporting the family and car parts

The other day for no reason, the driver side electric window stooped working (thankfully in the up and closed position).

I had a quick look to see if it sat on a separate fuse, but it is shared with the other electric windows that are all still working - so the problem is related to the window.

Is this a common problem, and what is the most usual failed component?

Also, how do I get the door card removed so I can investigate/test further...

Any help and advice greatly received.

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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 07-26-2010, 09:14 PM
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We have a 2007 GC. Great transportation.

One the door panel, look for a couple of large screws, probably hidden under the door pull. Once those are removed pull the door panel out and up. There is a channel where the glass meets the panel at the bottom of the window opening in which the panel "top" slides down into.

Once removed you can test the motor. I would test the switch itself while wiggling the wires as well.

Approach this just like you would if it was the 911.
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:15 AM
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I have no experience with these but first thing I would check is the switch. The mechanism or motor usually gives you some warning if it is going to crap out. I assume you can't hear anything working when you operate the switch?
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:19 AM
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coolcavaracing.com
 
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Cool, thank you Wayne. Will have a look at the door card during lunch today...
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 07-27-2010, 01:20 AM
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We have a Plymouth Voyager and the drivers side motor went out. Not a bad R&R fix. Be sure to lubricate the felt(s) so the window opens with less friction and gives you motor less stress. They have this lube available at most car parts places, you just have to ask for it. Shop around for the motor as prices vary from vendor to vendor. They built so many friggin Caravans and Voyagers you could pick up a used motor and a spare on hand for the price of a new one. Got a Haynes manual handy?

Bob
Old 07-27-2010, 10:07 AM
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It was time to leave for work but I figured a little info would at least help.

I have the Haynes book so if I can look anything up for you, contact me. I'm not sure of the time difference but I'll watch the thread until sleepytime.

EDIT-There are 2 phillips head screws holding the panel on. 1 inside the door pull/handle and 1 in the door OPENER handle. Once those are out, you'll have to pull out and up to get the panel off. Be aware that there are plastic clips holding it in place. A flat pry/putty knife works good at separating it from the door. They may break but should be available at your local parts store.

EDIT #2--There another screw holding the panel on. it's directly under the speaker housing. You have to get down and look up at the bottom of the door to see it. Ours is mising which would explain the annoying rattle that I hear.
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Last edited by Oh Haha; 07-27-2010 at 03:46 PM..
Old 07-27-2010, 02:43 PM
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coolcavaracing.com
 
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OK, got the door card off yesterday (thank you Wayne). I was expecting to see wires connected to the back of the switches, but instead I was faced with a large box with lots of electrical stuff in it and a fancy green connector - so not to sure how to test if this is where the fault is or not.

As far as I can see it, the fault is either in that box or the actual motor. So I will first take the box with all the switches in it out of the door card and see if I can bench test it...

This is where I prefer to work on the 911 or 924. On the Chrysler I have to make sure the car is in a drivable condition at all times as it is the only transport we have and it is in constant use - so no taking it apart and leaving it until fixed!?!

Wayne, I am in Stockholm which is GMT+2. So 6 hours ahead of New York (I am typing this having my morning coffee at 8.00 local time, and it is 2.00 in the morning for everybody on the US east cost)...
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing

Last edited by Kroggers; 07-27-2010 at 10:06 PM..
Old 07-27-2010, 10:03 PM
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Trace the wires from the faulty switch back to the "box". You should be able to insert a probe to test for power/continuity.

The haynes manual goes into the test process but it is pretty much the standard one we all use.

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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
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Wayne
Old 07-28-2010, 01:24 AM
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