Paint Stripping: Heat or Chemicals

[matthew-s]

So, there seem to be some crafty folks around here . . .

I live in an fairly old house (1930's), and I'd like to strip the old paint off some doors and trim, so we can "start from scratch". There are so many layers on some of it now, it just does not look right.

Anyway, what to do? I'm intrigued by tools like the "Silent Paint Remover" ($$$) or a heat gun, but should I go with chemicals (ick - I've got little kids in the house too).

Or maybe some combination (heat for most of it, clean up remaining with chemicals)?

Anyone with personal experience here?

The good news is that our trim is mostly "square". It does not have very much rounded detail.

Thanks in advance.

[speeder]

Way too much. (Experience). Heat all the way, I did this for a living for many years and almost never used chemical stripper on paint. I use a propane torch for most of it, caution and common sense is obviously required. You can point it all you want at paint, not so much at bare wood. Wear leather gloves and don't burn yourself.

You never want to use chemical stripper to "finish off" the job. It's toxic, messy and leaves a residue that has to be completely removed or the new paint will fail. Heat gun and really good (pull) scrapers in the end. If you do it right, there is virtually no sanding. I hate sanding. Good luck.

[Talewinds]

I agree with speeder to a degree. Those chemical strippers are nasty and a pain in the butt, however, Peel Away is a non-toxic and it works through like 36 layers of paint, downside, it has to be cleaned off w/ alcohol.

Good News! A company called Franmar, Franmar - Effective Economical Safe Cleaning Solutions produces Soy Gel. Completely "green" and biodegradable, yada yada.
It strips paint really well, BEST PART, clean up with soap and water!

[legion]

Heat.

I prefer sanding for a few thin layers, but I'd avoid doing that considering you probably have some lead paint and small children. Similarly, disolving the paint may just move the lead.

Using heat takes some time to learn to do well, but once you get it down, there is nothing quicker. You will also have less small debris and almost none of it will be airborne.

[Talewinds]

Also...
Franmar/ Soy Gel is made in Bloomington, IL

[red-beard]

Heat. And electric heats guns are cheap. Besides, you need another tool.

[legion]

Originally Posted by Talewinds

Also...
Franmar/ Soy Gel is made in Bloomington, IL

Interesting. Never heard of that company.

[legion]

Originally Posted by red-beard

Heat. And electric heats guns are cheap. Besides, you need another tool.

Yep, you need a few scrapers Get a good steel one and keep it sharp. Get a few plastic ones for stuff you don't want to gouge, but be careful not to melt them.

[matthew-s]

Originally Posted by red-beard

Besides, you need another tool.

Yes, I think you are right. It has been about a week since I picked up that 110v impact driver, so I guess I'm due. A heat gun would be a good addition.

What's the thinking on heat gun vs. propane torch for this job? Do they both do just as well?

Come to think of it, I need a heat gun for a different project anyway, so that puts a "+" in the heat gun column.

[cbush]

Heat guns! I took 8 layers of paint off a window sill in record time. I did make a few gouges with the tool but since I was repainting, I just filled them. Worked great and didh't have to use stripper. I have used a lot of stripper, bu definately prefer the heat gun. You still need good ventilation, and perhaps pull the battery from the smoke detector...

[Zeke]

No matter what method you use, you will expose paint that has lead in it. Don't breathe the heat gun fumes, many of which you can't see. Dispose of all removed paint at your local hazmat recycle center. Do not contaminate your house, mainly because of the children. All lead absorbed by the body stays for life. No need to get them started early.

Tape down water resistant paper on the floor to catch your paint and bundle it up and put it in plastic bags. Do not sand the lead paint unless you wet sand. Yes, you can wet sand house paint.

Same thing goes for the strippers, catch the debris and bag it.

[Tishabet]

Do I really have to be the first to say it?



BTW, I would endorse the heat gun approach.

[gr8fl4porsche]

Can you remove the doors and trim to send to a stripping company for a dip in a tank?

Removal of old paint is a miserable job. Do 1 door completely and then reevaluate your plans.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by legion

Heat.

I prefer sanding for a few thin layers, but I'd avoid doing that considering you probably have some lead paint and small children. Similarly, disolving the paint may just move the lead.

Using heat takes some time to learn to do well, but once you get it down, there is nothing quicker. You will also have less small debris and almost none of it will be airborne.

yes - if you can possibly leave the old paint (or as much as possible) do that. You are playing with your childrens' health (not to mention behavioral abnormalities from even low levels fo lead exposure).

I would also seriously consider paying the big bucks for a contractor who is certified to remove/abate lead based paints.

In any case, send the wife & kids on a vacation while the work is done. Afterward, I would even think about having the top layers of soil removed within a few feet of the house - replace and redo your shrubs.

[Zeke]

I am certified to remove lead and small amounts of asbestos. The only difference between what I posted above and a full blown lead abatement job would be to seal the rooms where the work is being done and wear full body suits with a wash at the entrance/exit port. The whole sealed package is then taken down outside in and properly disposed of.

If you can keep the work from becoming airborne to begin with, there is less need for all this preparation. Common sense is the key.

Randy, I don't think removing soil about the house is necessary unless there has been gross contamination. Couple of rain showers and it's gone anyway.

Now, I'm not saying where it goes is right, but if you're careful about the amount that will be tracked outside, it is really negligible. I know, I know, add up a few 1000 negligibles and you have a problem, but the OP should be able to do this w/o endangering himself or his family with a bit of understanding of the process.

I'll go on: Here in CA we are allowed to paint over paint that contains lead. I don't think that is all in all a good practice since most amateurs don't get a good bond with their paint jobs. It can chip off or be picked off by an industrious child.

This is what you do with an old house that has crappy paint that you want to make look great. First, wash the old paint and then while still wet, wet sand just enough to rough up the surface and remove "nubs" that would otherwise catch on a soft cloth.

Then prime with a high build primer. I add industrial talc or a similar compound to make a soft and easily sandable surface. I use a medium nap roller and leave the "texture." I then lightly sand that to smooth out old brush marks and runs staying out of the base paint.

I then apply either more primer or my finish coat depending on how bad the substrate was. We used to use a "split coat" of half primer and half finish as the intermediate coat. The paint manufacturers don't recommend that today.

When I get to the finish, I would prefer to spray, but can't always do that. So, in lieu of spray, I will roll the paint on quickly and immediately lay off the wet paint with a quality brush. The wet brush marks will level if you don't over do it and get it done quickly. You can't do this in the sun or on a real hot day.

The combination of brushed out paint over the rolled texture primer has a "cancelling out" effect and can look just like a spray job. You won't get this first time out, but with practice and patience, you can make an old house look really fresh and detailed even with some flaws still showing. Call those character.

Completely stripping wood to only paint it again can be a lot more labor intensive than my method.

One more tip: all the paints and tools (brushes and rollers) must remain absolutely clean. If you drop the brush or get trash in your paint, you need to strain the paint and get a fresh brush. And, new rollers leave fuzz on the surface. I use a new roller for primer, wash it thoroughly, and then use it for finish. No junk in my top coat.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by milt

...

Randy, I don't think removing soil about the house is necessary unless there has been gross contamination. Couple of rain showers and it's gone anyway.

...

Yes, it's a lower level issue. I'd be concerned about somebody planting a food garden in that area later on - and lead persists in the env. - it is a heavy metal, right. The real question is whether one thinks the current standards of the industry are adequately protective when it is the health of your own children that is involved...

Some will inevitably get trampled into the soil and persist rather than wash off with the rain.

The biggest #1 thing is to not create dust.

After that, bringing lead into the house (esp. if there are carpets) on the bottoms of one's shoes is likely next.

[Zeke]

Don't quote me out of context. I offered "conditions" where I thought it might not be as intense as having to dig up the yard.

But, since we're on the subject, does lead contaminated dust not wash down as well as away? I suppose the percolation has to be studied.

I said I didn't favor that. At least I tried to.

[Jagshund]

I'd use a mix of heavy asbestos brushes and chemical paint strippers to scrub off all of the paint, especially any containing lead. When finished, carefully remove the top 1" of soil surrounding the building and transport it to the nearest wildlife habitat.

[matthew-s]

Thanks to all. I wish I had Milt over here to do some painting around the house.

In most other parts of the house, I (or a contractor) painted over what was there. I had always intended to refinish some of the doors though. . .

The main reason why I'm looking at stripping this time is because the paint in the bathroom has had a much harder life, and the newer layers of what I assume is latex paint does not stick to the underlying original oil paint very well.

I'm now a bit spooked by the lead. I thought by stripping it rather than sanding / scraping it I'd be in good shape. Milt seems to think I'd be ok if I am careful (which I can be).

What I might do is take a door off and strip it out in the back yard. I'll see how that goes, and decide if I'm willing to do the rest of it.

I don't think I need to dig up the yard, I'm only talking about interior trim here. the house was sanded down and repainted by contractors hired by the previous owner. I'd like to think they "followed the rules"

[RWebb]

just do it away from any food garden areas & you should be ok

keep the kids away away...

don't use a regular vacuum to clean up - broom and wet mop the area where you pull off the trim and then toss

that should be fine

If you were a couple in their 70s w/no g'kids... I'd skip all that