|
|
|
|
|
|
Control Group
|
Effective means to secure something to a cinder block wall
I have an x-ray processor for which I have built a small stand. My plan is to secure the processor to the stand, and secure the stand to a cinder block wall. The question is, how best to do so? I was thinking I would drill a few holes and using epoxy, mount some threaded stock to the wall, like wheel studs sort of, and bolt the rig to the wall.
Any thoughts or suggestions on this project? There will be a bit of plumbing to do, also need to make the room light tight, but that should be relatively straightforward. TIA
__________________
She was the kindest person I ever met |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: SoFLA
Posts: 5,536
|
Assuming the block is hollow and not filled, I would use Hilti toggler anchors in the appropriate size for the weight of the object. No-go on epoxy/threaded rod...
http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-77338
Last edited by Danny_Ocean; 09-06-2010 at 12:02 PM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hamburg & Vancouver
Posts: 7,693
|
Quote:
__________________
_____________________ These are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others.—Groucho Marx |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Dismal Nitch, AZ
Posts: 9,042
|
In addition to your mechanical approach, you might consider PL's concrete adhesive. I've used it and some other PL products with excellent results...from concrete repair to re-attaching Vibram soles to boots (7 years ago).
. PL Sealants, Adhesives, Construction Adhesives, Polyurethane Sealants, Canned Adhesives, Wood Repair Products . Good luck. . Edit: I get it at Home Depot
__________________
Don . "Fully integrated people, in their transparency, tend to not be subject to mechanisms of defense, disguise, deceit, and fraudulence." - - Don R. 1994, an excerpt from My Ass From a Hole in the Ground - A Comparative View Last edited by Don Ro; 09-06-2010 at 12:07 PM.. Reason: More info... |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Kenbridge VA
Posts: 4,292
|
I have good luck with Tapcons.
__________________
Peppy 2011 BMW 335d 1988 Targa 3.4 ![]() 2001 Jetta TDI dead 1982 Chevette Diesel SOLD
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: SoFLA
Posts: 5,536
|
Tapcons may not be good for block, especially when significant weight is involved. Sometimes the block is too "crumbly". If the hole isn't drilled properly, the Tapcon could lose its' bite. They are brittle, too. Tapcons work good in solid concrete.
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Kenbridge VA
Posts: 4,292
|
Danny I put them in the joint, but your are right about them in block.
__________________
Peppy 2011 BMW 335d 1988 Targa 3.4 ![]() 2001 Jetta TDI dead 1982 Chevette Diesel SOLD
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: SoFLA
Posts: 5,536
|
Quote:
That being said, weight is the issue. I use Tapcons in block all the time to attach plywood or studs. Never when securing something heavy, though. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,563
|
If the weight of the machine is carrried by the stand on the floor and you're just trying to stabilize the stand to the wall, then some tapcons held in with some two part Simpson SET epoxy from would work. If you can get the stand flush to the wall, you can epoxy it to the wall as well.
If you can position the stand where you can access the vertical mortar joints, you can use 1/4" or 3/8" diameter Redheads with some Simpson SET epoxy as well. This would be the strongest area to work with as the head joints should be filled with mortar. SET High Strength Epoxy-Tie® Anchoring Adhesive ~ Simpson Strong-Tie Anchor Systems® |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Quote:
__________________
. |
||
|
|
|
|
You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
Posts: 40,204
|
Drilling into concrete has never been precise from my experience. The concrete bit will hit a larger partical and readjust. When locating the studs, mabye attach them to the stand first, then epoxy everything in place.
Hope the stand is not damaged. Danny's Hilti toggler anchors are the strongest provided they land in a hollow. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,563
|
I should have noted the block wall should be free of all paint, etc. before trying to attach anything. Otherwise there will be a lack of adhesion, and the part will give way. Clean the hole/surface with a brush and air of all loose drilling debris.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,977
|
I always go in the center of the cell on the block and use a Hilti or toggle. Never an issue...
__________________
2021 Subaru Legacy, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 17,550
|
How about drilling through all the way to the other side and run a long threaded rod with a big o' washer or steel plate on both side and crank down on the nut? Cut the rod off with a small grinder after. a bit more more work but stronger then anchors.
jeff |
||
|
|
|