Subaru Outback

[Normy]

I'm looking to buy a work car for Memphis, and I've come up with the Subaru Outback as the best idea. Reliability and AWD are what interest me about these. Memphis gets the occasional ice and snow, so this is a good idea. That and Subaru's are pretty much made of rock.

I've found two:

1. '97, it has 145,000 miles, with an engine rebuilt 75,000 miles back. It has a brand new timing belt, and has been owned by the same guy [works at my company] since 1998. He wants $2700.

2. '01, this one has 95,000 miles, is an LL Bean edition with an H6 engine. The owner [dealer] says it might need a power steering pump, and the tires probably need to be replaced. He's asking $6000 for this one.

I haven't actually looked at or driven either yet, but both owners say the cars are in excellent shape. Anyone around here know something about these cars?

Thanx in advance-

N

[scotricker]

In my experience, Subarus have been mostly bulletproof cars. I've had several, and it takes a lot of neglect for even my kids to kill one.
Properly maintained, or even occasionally maintained, they last a good long time.
The all wheel drive is very good on ice and snow, but remember that stopping is just like everyone else. Timing belt replacement is important. Also check the front CV boots for cracks, especially the front passenger side one.

[kaisen]

I know a lot about these cars. I've bought, repaired, and sold a half dozen last year. I utilize an independent Subaru specialist who is highly regarded.

They are great cars, but have their share of things to watch out for. The '95-99 DOHC motors, EJ22D (Impreza, some Legacy) or EJ25D (most Legacy, all Outbacks), WILL have head gasket failures at some point in their life, usually around 100K but can vary significantly. And some have the issue more than once. It's hard to fix 'right'. Google it and you'll see it is endemic. The 'fix' is to fit the latest MLS Multi-Layered-Steel gaskets that are completely covered in Viton on the sealing surfaces. The Subaru gaskets are junk, even the last few evolutions that claim to fix the problem. Either Cometic or Fel Pro for head gaskets. You need new head bolts and you need to resurface the heads, and the machinist has to know what he's doing. Of course, you've already got the motor out, so you do the rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, thermostat, oil separator plate, timing belt (must also replace both rollers, hydraulic tensioner (use only Subaru), water pump, and cam seals), etc. Figure that the job costs at least $1500 at a good independent ($800 in parts, $100 resurface, $600 labor), and that's if it never really overheated and damaged more.

Halfway through the '99 model year, Subaru came out with the SOHC version that mostly elimated the fear of head gaskets. (Watch for piston slap though...more of an annoyance)Then the 2000 models were a redesign. So a 2001 is a 'better' car than a 1997 in that respect (new bodystyle, new motor design).

Other issues are much smaller. They always rust, even in FL. They have A/C issues. They eat CV joints and wheel bearings. The rear control arm bushings (two arms) degrade. Etc. Nothing too big. The motor is the biggie.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by Normy

I'm looking to buy a work car for Memphis, and I've come up with the Subaru Outback as the best idea. Reliability and AWD are what interest me about these. Memphis gets the occasional ice and snow, so this is a good idea. That and Subaru's are pretty much made of rock.

I've found two:

1. '97, it has 145,000 miles, with an engine rebuilt 75,000 miles back. It has a brand new timing belt, and has been owned by the same guy [works at my company] since 1998. He wants $2700.

2. '01, this one has 95,000 miles, is an LL Bean edition with an H6 engine. The owner [dealer] says it might need a power steering pump, and the tires probably need to be replaced. He's asking $6000 for this one.

I haven't actually looked at or driven either yet, but both owners say the cars are in excellent shape. Anyone around here know something about these cars?

Thanx in advance-

N

Whatever you do, don't get a 2010-2011 Outback.
Steering Wheel Shake Issues - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
Subaru of America is buying the lemons back and reselling them as is to unsuspecting buyers.

[tcar]

Memphis?

Get a Legacy wagon. You don't need AWD in Mephis.

Less to have issues with.

[RANDY P]

................You'll look like a lesbian.

OH WAIT...

[onewhippedpuppy]

[Normy]

Originally Posted by RANDY P

................You'll look like a lesbian.

OH WAIT...

Yeah, I thought about that, it is kind of a "girl" car isn't it. On the other hand, it just makes too much sense, and I've known some pretty ferocious females in my day. I'll forget about that "OH WAIT..." bit this time-

N

[Normy]

Originally Posted by kaisen

I know a lot about these cars. I've bought, repaired, and sold a half dozen last year. I utilize an independent Subaru specialist who is highly regarded.

They are great cars, but have their share of things to watch out for. The '95-99 DOHC motors, EJ22D (Impreza, some Legacy) or EJ25D (most Legacy, all Outbacks), WILL have head gasket failures at some point in their life, usually around 100K but can vary significantly. And some have the issue more than once. It's hard to fix 'right'. Google it and you'll see it is endemic. The 'fix' is to fit the latest MLS Multi-Layered-Steel gaskets that are completely covered in Viton on the sealing surfaces. The Subaru gaskets are junk, even the last few evolutions that claim to fix the problem. Either Cometic or Fel Pro for head gaskets. You need new head bolts and you need to resurface the heads, and the machinist has to know what he's doing. Of course, you've already got the motor out, so you do the rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, thermostat, oil separator plate, timing belt (must also replace both rollers, hydraulic tensioner (use only Subaru), water pump, and cam seals), etc. Figure that the job costs at least $1500 at a good independent ($800 in parts, $100 resurface, $600 labor), and that's if it never really overheated and damaged more.

Halfway through the '99 model year, Subaru came out with the SOHC version that mostly elimated the fear of head gaskets. (Watch for piston slap though...more of an annoyance)Then the 2000 models were a redesign. So a 2001 is a 'better' car than a 1997 in that respect (new bodystyle, new motor design).

Other issues are much smaller. They always rust, even in FL. They have A/C issues. They eat CV joints and wheel bearings. The rear control arm bushings (two arms) degrade. Etc. Nothing too big. The motor is the biggie.

The '01 that I'm thinking about has the flat-6 engine; know if these are effected like this?

Thanx for the info!

N

[Rot 911]

I have always thought they were semi-cool cars and definitely fit the bill for hauling stuff around. I really like the one Matt (onewhippedpuppy) had for a while.

[rick-l]

Normy the troll

Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Wins Best Car For The Gay Hipster

[RANDY P]

I have a confession to make.

the chick I'm sort of seeing (which I will affectioniately refer to as simply "coug" from here on) has a 2002 legacy Outback in that red / gold on beige with 93K miles.

Frankly, if these cars are supposed to be reliable, it sure as hell doesn't seem to show.

Look above - Normy found one with a bad PS pump with 95K miles. The other one had a rebuild at 75K miles.

Now I know there could be reasons for this but still...

My brother has a 2002 Forrester that has 90K that just ate a rear wheel bearing- he don't abuse the car and it's always been immaculate. His also is oil thirsty for some reason. It's a non turbo

Coug's 02 is also an oil drinker and she's had it since new. It's also a leaker on top, it's weeping from various places. Also a non turbo 4.

They have good power and drive great but still- oil consumption and random failures. Makes you wonder.

rjp

[onewhippedpuppy]

Mine was a Legacy GT wagon. Same platform as the Outback and Forester, but with a sporty suspension and 2.5 turbo powertrain. It was a very nice driving car, and pretty freaking quick with a downpipe, intake, and Cobb tune. Unless you really need the height of the Outback or Forester, the Legacy is a much better looking and driving option.

[RANDY P]

I almost bought a new GT over my BMW.

Almost. Those are nice cars.

[pwd72s]

Originally Posted by rick-l

Normy the troll

Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Wins Best Car For The Gay Hipster

And you know about this website how?

[gtc]

I like imprezas, but the bigger subarus are just awful. Slow, crap handling, and mediocre interiors. I guess you can mod the turbo motors and swap out the suspension, but that's like polishing a turd.

And people with subarus in the snow are the absolute worst.

[Laneco]

One thing to honestly consider, Normy, is - are you in the market for a $2,700 car or a $6,000 car?

That's a lot of difference in this price range. $2,700 generally buys you a get-you-by transportation along with it's issues. $6K can buy a pretty decent car. If you can afford $6K, quit looking at $2,700 $hitters.

angela

[jwasbury]

This will be the 2nd time I've felt compelled to chime in on a PPOT subaru legacy thread.

Once upon a time when I lived in VT, I bought a '96 (or '97, can't remember now) outback brand spankin' new. Subaru ownership is almost state law up there. This car was a POS, and a lemon. I think the quality may have improved since, but I can never buy another Subaru again or recommend them to anyone.

Within the first 600mi of ownership, a critical bolt in the front suspension/steering linkages fell out. Luckily I wasn't hammering through the twisties between my home and workplace, or else I could have easily been killed. In the 2 years (35k mi) I owned the car, it ate through 3 sets of brake rotors (they would warp badly). Yes VT has hills, but I don't ride brakes, and it was a 5 speed, so I used engine braking mostly going down those hills. The quality of the interior was very poor, especially when compared to Toyota or Honda. Back in the day, the Outback model was 10k more than the stripped down "Brighton" version. For 10k you got 16" alloys, foglamps, a couple inches extra ground clearance, and a 1 micron thin layer of "luxury" applied to the interior, which began to wear away the moment the car is driven off the dealer's lot.

[RANDY P]

Frankly, I looked inside the oil filler on Coug's and I couldn't believe I was looking into a 90K motor- it looked like a really high mile motor with that coating of sludge. I know she kept up on oil changes better than book spec.

The leaks were a turnoff too.

rjp

[RWebb]

I've posted about my '01 with a 4 cyl. before - reliable, boring, xlnt. traction, best gnd. clearance of any car, boring, engine throbs like a tractor, poor gas mileage, pretty cheap to fix, boring....

Why do you need AWD??

If I lived there and didn't drive north or west to ski or go off hwy, I'd get a BMW 3 series wagon. Very nice handling - better wt. distribution than the sedan.

BTW - that $6k car would cost 2x that here.