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-   -   Experienced mechanics whats wrong with this bearing? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/596524-experienced-mechanics-whats-wrong-bearing.html)

KevinP73 03-12-2011 06:02 PM

Experienced mechanics whats wrong with this bearing?
 
I'm replacing the rod bearings in my 2000 Dodge 4.7 pick up.
The bearing on top is the old one being replaced. It has the little tang on it to locate it in the rod but the new (OEM) bearing does not. Is this correct or do I have defective replacements?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299985226.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299985290.jpg

A930Rocket 03-12-2011 06:35 PM

Strange. I've never seen them without the tang.

DanielDudley 03-12-2011 06:44 PM

Is there a lube hole in the other half ? Seems wrong, or at least I wouldn't install it.

KevinP73 03-12-2011 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanielDudley (Post 5898115)
Is there a lube hole in the other half ? Seems wrong, or at least I wouldn't install it.

The mains have the oil hole in them. I've never seen rod bearings with an oil hole.

fastfredracing 03-12-2011 08:05 PM

I have never had the bottom of a 4.7 apart, only the top half, but I sure would not put it in without some more information. Without that tang, what is going to stop it from spinning?. You say that these are oem mopar bearings that came in mopar boxes?. That is weird. I am heading back up to the shop in the morning, I'll see if I can find any more information for you.

KevinP73 03-12-2011 08:14 PM

They came from my local Dodge dealer in MoPar boxes. I'll wait to hear from you before I go any further. Thanks Fred

yetibone 03-13-2011 06:51 AM

Without that tang, there's nothing to keep that shell properly located when installing the rod bearing caps, and nothing but the normal crush of the bearing shells after the rod cap is torqued down to keep the shells from spinning in their journals. The engine would likely spin that bearing.

Looks like a defective part.

mattdavis11 03-13-2011 07:00 AM

The 4.7's have a history. Your new part is probably an upgrade. I don't know the specifics, but several shops have mentioned to me that they're notorious catastrophes.

kaisen 03-13-2011 07:00 AM

The tang is only there to locate the bearing during assembly. Crush is what keeps the bearing in place.

john walker's workshop 03-13-2011 07:09 AM

i would never use something like that. find an aftermarket one with a tang.

kaisen 03-13-2011 07:21 AM

There's nothing wrong with the bearing. But it can't hurt to get an aftermarket bearing either.

Why did you get the bearing from the Chrysler dealer, and not a Clevite/ACL/etc from a parts supplier? Just wondering.

KevinP73 03-13-2011 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaisen (Post 5898724)

Why did you get the bearing from the Chrysler dealer, and not a Clevite/ACL/etc from a parts supplier? Just wondering.

My local CarQuest said he would have to special order the parts and it would probably take a week to get them. Dodge had them in stock and delivered the next day. The price was the same from either.

kaisen 03-13-2011 08:53 AM

Mopar bearings do not have tangs. It's okay.

Some other manufacturers offer the option of with and without.

You could buy Clevite CB1784P or ACL 8B7210A which have tangs.

sammyg2 03-13-2011 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaisen (Post 5898686)
The tang is only there to locate the bearing during assembly. Crush is what keeps the bearing in place.

Zackly.

cstreit 03-13-2011 01:30 PM

I assumed that the tang helped keep the bearing in place and from spinning...

EarlyPorsche 03-13-2011 06:15 PM

I love the 4.7 so much. I ran one up to 150,000 and it was running like new when sold. Current owner has it at 180,000. As long as you do an oil change between 3,000-4,000 miles you'll get them to 250,000-300,000 miles. If oil changes are missed they aren't able to withstand the abuse.

KevinP73 03-13-2011 06:39 PM

So what do you think went wrong? The heater stopped working a couple months back. I changed the climate control module in the dash and flushed the cooling system including the heater core. Everything was clean, the water flowed clear with no debri. The t-state was replaced and working fine. After changing the climate control module I drove it from work to home twice. About a 17 mile trip each way. Everything was working fine. On the third day I was headed to Rosemond from Van Nuys. It was early evening cold and raining. The heater was working fine. As I drove down the freeway I noticed the temp start to climb. In about a three to four mile period the temp went very high but not into the red. Then it fell quickly below normal and started to diesel. I pulled off the side of the road and called the flat bed. Once I got back to the shop I pulled all the spark plugs and found water in all 8 cylinders. I removed the heads but couldn't find any breach in the head gaskets or cracks in the heads. It's a total mystery what happened.

idontknow 03-13-2011 06:57 PM

Water jacket cracked in the intake manifold?

EarlyPorsche 03-13-2011 07:27 PM

You definitely overheated the engine and had water boil over past the head gaskets...

Now my question is whether you pulled the bleed plug when you did any sort of draining of the cooling system? The bleed plug in on top of the engine and takes an allen wrench and you probably had to use a pipe to make it budge the first time.

EarlyPorsche 03-13-2011 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idontknow (Post 5899986)
Water jacket cracked in the intake manifold?

The 4.7 has a 100% dry intake - no water no oil and its constructed of a really good composite material.


This engine is actually called the "semi-hemi" - start reading the link below at "Chrysler's New Cammer: Mopar’s first all-new production V8 in 41 years" for information on the engine. It has parts and technology in it that you may not find in a really good Porsche engine even. It really is a marvelous engine so long as oil is changed.


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