Remodel: stud replacement

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

I'm remodeling my bathroom (see Bathroom remodel) and I have a couple of studs that aren't in the greatest shape. How do I remove the studs without utterly destroying the sheetrock on the other side? I don't want to remodel 3 other rooms at the same time.

The FIL suggested running a SawZall between the wallboard and stud, but judging by my limited attempts at this so far, I'm going to make an unholy mess.

gassy · 03-13-2011, 05:51 PM

just butt a new stud right next to the bad ones.

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

That crossed my mind as well, but I didn't know if that was an accepted practice.

TimT · 03-13-2011, 05:54 PM

Yes... you just "sister" them

sammyg2 · 03-13-2011, 05:55 PM

Aren't the interwebs great?

URY914 · URY914's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimT

Yes... you just "sister" them

Lezbo studs.

A930Rocket · 03-13-2011, 06:15 PM

Toe nail the new studs to the top and bottom plates, as well as the studs you're butting them next to.

LWJ · 03-13-2011, 06:32 PM

Pressure treated?

wdfifteen · wdfifteen's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Toe nail the new studs to the top and bottom plates, as well as the studs you're butting them next to.

So you take two lesbyterian studs, put one on the top and one on the bottom, put their butts together, nail their toes to some plates, and you're good to go? Brilliant!
Umm... what are you trying to accomplish again?

grizzly3 · 03-13-2011, 06:49 PM

As stated already, sistering the studs will be perfectly fine unless the existing studs your speaking of are rotten. If thats the case we would use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the drywall screws/nails without damaging the drywall and get the rotten studs out. Works a lot better than a Sawzall.

Don't use treated wood for the framing/studs. It has a high moisture content 20%+, which is why its for exterior use only. It could cause issues later. Good luck!

A930Rocket · 03-13-2011, 06:50 PM

I have a way with words...

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

So you take two lesbyterian studs, put one on the top and one on the bottom, put their butts together, nail their toes to some plates, and you're good to go? Brilliant!
Umm... what are you trying to accomplish again?

look 171 · 03-13-2011, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LWJ

Pressure treated?

No.

sammyg2 · 03-13-2011, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

So you take two lesbyterian studs, put one on the top and one on the bottom, put their butts together, nail their toes to some plates, and you're good to go? Brilliant!
Umm... what are you trying to accomplish again?

I take back my earlier statement about the interwebs being great.

turbo6bar · 03-14-2011, 09:24 AM

If you have a good reciprocating saw, you can use a flexible blade with high teeth per inch. Lenox 110r is a good one. Think Lowe's stocks them. Bend the blade with the sawzall so your blade is in plane with the drywall and move down the stud, cutting the fasteners. If a drywall adhesive was used, the job becomes a little tougher. A dremel might also work well.

Is it necessary to remove the old studs?

VINMAN · 03-14-2011, 09:43 AM

Are the existing studs bowed or twisted?

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

The studs do not appear to be deformed, but the lower parts are in bad shape, and the "leading" edge which was against the shower drywall are soft about 1/4" or so in.

I tried various sawzall blades, but even the flimsiest ones wanted to dig into the back of the drywall.

john walker's workshop · 03-14-2011, 09:52 AM

cut out the bad stuff from the stud and then sister it. unfortunately, the vibration from cutting most likely will loosen the screws in the other drywall face. use drywall screws to sister them, to keep the violence to a minimum. had to do the same thing a few years ago.

Zeke · 03-14-2011, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by widebody911

The studs do not appear to be deformed, but the lower parts are in bad shape, and the "leading" edge which was against the shower drywall are soft about 1/4" or so in.

I tried various sawzall blades, but even the flimsiest ones wanted to dig into the back of the drywall.

If you go the Sawzall route, you need a 12' blade. You're right that it will shake the wall and cause "nail pops" on the other side unless you're better than I at this.

I'd treat the soft wood with boric acid and sister the studs using screws. In fact, screws for everything or you will get the nail pops.

javadog · 03-14-2011, 12:20 PM

IF this is a load bearing wall, cut the new studs a hair longer than the distance between the plates, so that they actually do something. I generally recommend a hair from a brunette.

Leave the old studs, don't do anything to them apart from making sure you kill any mold that might have started. Trying to remove them serves no purpose other than creating more work for nothing

Check the old studs for straightness and match the new ones accordingly.

JR

03-14-2011, 12:29 PM

Leave existing bad studs in place. They are holding the "good side" drywall in. Butt a new stud on each side of bad one. Use 3" drywall screws to connect the 3 studs together. If you cut the screws/nails from good side attachment, you will have FWS (floppy wall syndrome) . That's some bad juju. Throw some boric acid in the wall cavity and rotted studs to keep critters away.