Sliding patio door lock help...

[KFC911]

I've recently installed a sliding patio door, and have decided I don't want to use the "foot release, spring loaded" auxillary lock I ordered. The release button is next to the beautiful wood, and I just know the adjacent wood will take a beating over time. A friend has an older slider which has a lock mounted at the top which works in a similar fashion, but uses a lever/handlle to pull the "bolt" out of the frame...a much better design imo. It appears to have "VSI" on the lock, but I've been unable to locate something similar online. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Any other aux. locking suggestions are welcome too! Thanks...

[Zeke]

Well, a stick is still the cheapest effective way. You can match the stick to the track material.


Locks mounted high are technically not to code as children cannot open them in an emergency.

Most locks today are tested for forced entry and are pretty good. Just make sure the jamb side latch has long screws installed into the stud.

[KFC911]

Thank you Milt! I've been using a stick for now, and using a "proper" piece stained to match the wood would work out nicely...that's why I come back to this place, great advice! Another question, if I want to leave the door open (say 8") and use another shorter piece of wood, is this still effective? What I mean is, could one close the door and then slam it over and dislodge the stick? I don't want to test on "my" door and that's why I liked the bolt type in the bottom/top of the frame...secure the door partially open and it doesn't move either way. No kids here, and the security screws are in place. BTW, your advice was sorely missed on threads like this during your hiatus sometime back

[john70t]

There should be a "fully closed/locked" indent and a "4inch open/locked" indent.
Simple as that.

If you're worried about the wood, why not take it apart and poly/other it?

There should be top and bottom door latching hardware available for complete security. Cracking a high window will give the same result though.

[KFC911]

Nevermind my followup regarding a partially open door...I see how I can do this securely, nestled into the tracks with a groove, and prevent it from being dislodged. I'm still not going to test on my door however

[cbush]

Good advice- the lock on the door of the house we bought does not work, and they were using the stick method. I was going to try and figure out how to fix it, but I think I will just keep using the stick!

[KFC911]

Originally Posted by john70t

There should be a "fully closed/locked" indent and a "4inch open/locked" indent.
Simple as that.

If you're worried about the wood, why not take it apart and poly/other it?

There should be top and bottom door latching hardware available for complete security. Cracking a high window will give the same result though.

Thanks John! Maybe you're right...I've also installed new windows so a partially open "secured" door might be something I never use anyways. I do not understand your first statement though...sometimes I'm dense . The wood I want to protect is the actual wood door, and the foot release button is only 1/4" away from the wood itself...fat feet, clumsiness, etc. and it's gonna get unbeautiful fast.

[KFC911]

Originally Posted by cbush

Good advice- the lock on the door of the house we bought does not work, and they were using the stick method. I was going to try and figure out how to fix it, but I think I will just keep using the stick!

BTW, over the years in apts. I've used a broom stick...no good according to a friend (based upon his experience) as they are to small in diameter and can be dislodged. I'm using 'bout a third width of a deck plank for now, but am due for a properly stained "upgrade".

[john70t]

Perhaps add a curved plate which wraps over the bottom edge of the door, and use longer screws to attach the foot lock(?).

Depending on the material used in the core(solid wood vs. foam core), a little drilling with wax/soap/lube will help prevent damage to the rest of the door.

No lock is going to keep a dedicated intruder out, though.
A stop bar in the track is strongest, and makes them go through the heavy glass.

[David]

Wow, two sliding door threads in one day! Stick.

[Zeke]

I like to put a screw in the stick as well because sometimes they are hard to pick up. If you were really clever, you'd make a little fork thingy that would catch the screw in the stick so you didn't have to bend over every time you wanted to open the door. You only need one length, about 4-5 inches shorter than the distance so you can open the door and have security.

Now that's overthinking something if I've ever seen it.

AFA the toe locks are concerned, they get out of adjustment way too easily. Just the seasonal changes makes doors line up a little different. Andy you're right, most doors that have them have a long scratch along the base where the pin hits the inactive door.

I don't use them unless a customer demands it.

[gr8fl4porsche]

I have been using the same piece of broomstick painted black for almost 10 years - the stick is cut the perfect length and lays in the tracks the door glides run on. No way any amount of wiggling on the door handle is going to dislodge that stick. Like Milt said, if anything I need a better way to get it out of the track. Never thought about just putting a screw near one end for a makeshift handle

[targa911S]

All my doors have "Charlie bars" on them. Work great.

[cbush]

Good idea with the screw in the stick. With the stick, my door will open just far enough to set off the alarm

[David]

Originally Posted by cbush

With the stick, my door will open just far enough to set off the alarm

Very good idea!

[Tobra]

I always used a little bit of baling wire instead of a screw, because that is what I had the first time it came up for me.