insulate enclosed car trailer
 

Does anyone know about how to insulate a car trailer (24' Pace Pursuit)?
What material(s) would be best? Best method to secure the insulation material? Do I need to worry about a vapor barrier?

It seems like a big job. But, I want to add an a/c... so seems like insulating will be required.

Many thanks!!
Skip

I would check out the spray foam, then cover that. I have seen it used in metal buildings and could not believe the difference it makes..

You might also think about painting the top with an elastomeric roof coating. That does a great job of cutting down on heat from the sun.

I'd like to insulate mine someday.

I look forward to seeing some examples.


KT

Can you post some pictures of the inside of the trailer? I assume it is lined with wood? Maybe you could put foam in the dead space between the aluminum and wood. Like those 1" thick sheets they sell at HD and lowes?

I have one in our 'fleet'. 32 foot. 10k gross weight. Empty weight prior; 5700, empty weight after; 7900. Full liner interior, with two roof airs. Was not worth it. Spend the money on roof coating, and more BTU's.

Yes, it your basic generic wood lined interior. Plywood on the sides and Luan on ceiling.
Foam was my first thought as well...

Mind telling me what you used for insulation? Did the insulation not help keep things cool? Too much work or money?
Thanks!!!

I would think sheets of Styrofoam behind the wood would work just fine. You would have to remove the wood first though, not a bad job just time consuming.

I assume you are not going to run the A/C 24-7-360 like a house, just when the trailer is in use?

If so, I would just use the A/C, and hang those clear rubber drapes over the doors, so you don't loose much going in and out. Thin foam does not have alot of R-value, I'd rather keep the trailer light for towing.

THIS! it's LIGHT

Shop Dow 1/2" x 4' x 8' Extruded Polystyrene Insulated Sheathing at Lowes.com

R value is only 3.0 but it is a trailer not a hotel. :)

Enough foam to insulate the trailer might weigh 20lbs. Should cut down on outside noise too

If I went with the Lowes/HD rigid foam, should I glue to the outter skin?
Also, anyone have thoughts about a vapor barrier? I'd hate to cause rust or mildew...

Dad911- I won't run 365. But, I have "considered" running during the hottest part of the summer - maybe set the a/c to 85/. The trailer is covered, but it still get's well over 100 in there.

I think I'll just insulate the ceiling.
I'll add foam panels between the metal ribbing and then add a veneer.

I'll snap a few pictures.


KT

Is your ceiling currently "open"?
Would love to hear how it goes and if youu can tell a difference.

A friend of mind recently had his attic roof (interior) sprayed with a radiant barrier. I wonder if that would be beneficial (along with the insulation)...

Home despot sells 4x8' sheets of insulating foam, aluminum lined on one side, in different thicknesses. Buy a bunch of em and glue em on the walls and ceilings, that'll make a big difference, won't cost much or add much weight.

http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/a...p/P1120155.jpg

http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/a...p/P1120156.jpg

The ceiling is cheap sheet material.
Should be able to install foam panels to the wood then use self tapping sheet metal screws to hold the new veneer in place.

I want to cut in two skylights first.


KT

What Sammy said about the foam panels sandwiched between an aluminum skin that also served as a vapor barrier. The sheets of styrofoam don't have an R rating of more than 3. Put the glacial white elastomeric coating on the roof with the foam panels & that should be about as good as you can get I would think. Weight gain should be minimal too.