Chevy engine rebuild question
 

I turned 299,000 miles on my El Camino daily driver yesterday. I have owned it for 20 years and plan to drive it another 20. :D

I am thinking it is time for an engine rebuild after I hit 300,000 miles. It has the original 305 engine in it now and the heads have never been off! 1000 miles after an oil change the oil is still so clear it is hard to see on the dip stick. The blow by is getting pretty bad. The valve covers leak, the oil filler cap oozes oil and the PCV valve gets full of oil regularly. I put it on the dyno just after I converted it to fuel injection 100,000 miles ago and it was pumping out 115 HP and 215 lb ft of torque.

I know the majority of you will recommend to scrap the 305 and put in a crate 350 and that is one option. I really don’t care about a lot more HP in the car, I just don’t ever plan to street race, and it has enough power to get me on down the road. In 20 years I have never wanted to do a burn out or drag race.

I want to take apart the engine just to see how worn it is. I am really leaning towards doing a full rebuild on the engine. My thoughts are that I can pick up a used set of 305 heads for little or nothing. Get all the machine work done and have them ready to go before I even pull the engine. I feel sure the original cam is worn so I will replace it with the RV cam. I still want low end torque and really don’t want to go to a high rev engine.

Right now it has the original cast iron exhaust manifolds. I think the new engine rebuild would be the right time for headers and dual exhaust. I already have a dual hump cross-member.

What other “while I am in there” things can add a few HP and not cost a lot? I figure if I can get to 175 to 200 HP I will have a ton more power than I do now and an engine that should go for another 300,000 miles.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1317327179.jpg

Glen I would look into something the Edelbrock performer package. which is basiclly a new top end.. Carb, intake, heads, cam. There is all different packages depend on what you are looking for.

While a 350 WOULD be a better choice, you can do the same basic hot rod tricks to a 305.

The heads can be bought very cheaply, as you mentioned.

Throw on an aluminum intake(used), headers(used) and a good true dual exhaust system.

A Carter AFB 4BBL is a great street carb but can be hard to find. A used Edelbrock is just as good.
I would replace the timing chain with a double roller version and install it "straight up" versus advanced or retarded.

A good ignition system like MSD or Mallory in addition to the factory HEI setup along with new plugs and wires will make sure the spark is good.

Don't you need to have a mullet to be driving that thing? :-)
Have you done a leak down ?

swapping to a 350 would be the most cost effective thing to do- will cost you about the same as buying a reman 305, there really is no reason to keep the 305 except for sentimental value.

If you really want to get creative find a mid-late 90's Chev truck 350, it's set up for roller cam- rebuild the vortec heads but then you need a new manifold to use with your FI setup.

If you go basic 350, apart from a cam swap, intake manifold (CL has a million of 'em for sale), and headers get the thing set up on a chassis dyno for your FI call it a day.

rjp

Does it have EFI? If so, forget my suggestions on carburators.

This^^

yep.

I'd do some research into what they used to do with the old Camaro and TransAm 305s and try to duplicate that. I would expect there to be "good" heads and "bad" heads for 305s. If you want to nearly double the power, I'd definitely find out what the "good" heads are.

If you go the 350 route, then just about any 350 and any head will work well enough to get you your 200hp.

They also make some very basic RV style crate motors that are a bunch cheaper than stuff like the ZZ4 and that sort of thing. You might want to look into that. A factory motor (crate) will usually last a lot longer than a rebuilt unless the rebuilt is done very carefully.

Bah.
Have a shop resurface the heads and do a valve job and install new valves and guides.
Take the block .010" over on the block (or more if necessary).
Get em to clean the block and install new cam bearings and inspect the crank journals for wear. Grind if necessary.
Replace the pistons, rings, and bearings.
Make sure ya put in a new oil pump, the new plastic thing that drives the oil pump, and a new timing chain set.

That's only an afternoon and a 12 pack. Half the cost of a long block.

Find a cheap 350 powered Buick Roadmaster, and swap the drivetrain, and electronics. Plenty O' power, and a 4 speed auto. It should get pretty good fuel mileage too. Plus, you can get parts at any auto parts store. Should make it more enjoyable to drive, too. I always wanted to do that with mine.

Chevy engine rebuild question
 

Without a doubt the best thing I ever did to the Elky was get rid of the carb an install a throttle body fuel injection system. It starts and runs like a modern car.

I may spend the 50 bucks to dyno it one last time after 300,000 miles just to know.

I will report on the engine rebuild just to record the adventure. I really want to rebuild it myself just for the adventure. I have several friends that are gurus on small block engines. I will seek any and all advice and then make up my mind what to do.

Chevy engine rebuild question
 

My first SBC rebuild lasted 1000 miles. Spun a bearing. I did it again and it lasted forever.

Chevy had factory 305's with a carb putting out 180 hp in the mid '80's. An RV cam, your FI, and an open exhaust should easliy meet your goals. If memory serves a 305 has a long stroke and a narrow bore, trading upper rpm power for milage and low rpm torque. It's your money and your car.

you could always get a junkyard 350 and rebuild that. Same experience, better motor.

305 is basically a smaller bore 350. Same stroke, smaller bore.

Pace Performance | GM Performance Automotive/Truck Parts & Accessories

That's the place I've had great luck with (all sorts of crate engines, mild to wild).

327 is the perfect small block for fun IMO, 3 1/4" stroke x 4" bore.

Revs till there's no tomorrow and it'll do it with the 1.94 heads. 2.02s are even better.

Perfect.
GM Goodwrench - 10067353 - New Chevy 350 CID, 5.7L , V8 - Universal Crate Engine, Factory Replacement for 71-85 GM Cars & Trucks

10067353 - New Chevy 350 CID, 5.7L , V8 - Universal Crate Engine, Factory Replacement for 71-85 GM Cars & Trucks

$1400

Hmm, he's got an '86. It appears to be an odd-ball that's going to cost more. Figures. That'd be my luck. I guess the flywheel bolt pattern is different, but I'm not sure if that's all. A flywheel would be cheap and easy though.

I always wanted to drive a 302 Chevy.