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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
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Removing Petrified Masking Tape from a Guitar
I've got an old "lawsuit" SG-copy bass guitar that I'd like to clean up. I used masking tape to put a piece of cloth across the back to avoid belt buckle rash and now I'd like to get all that tape and tape-adhesive off. It's probably been on there for well over two decades and probably three, so this masking tape is petrified. I don't want to hurt the finish, if I can help it. What would you guys do?
I could use a heat gun. Or chemicals. I have some Omni cleaner stuff that's a gallon of fairly harsh chemicals but I'm concerned about hurting the finish. Or just soak it with a rag for a day or two and see if it just comes off.
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Try WD-40
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Join Date: Apr 2001
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I'd say what you use depends on how it was originally finished...Maybe take it to somebody who works with antique furniture & ask their opinion?
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Soap and warm water or naphtha. Don't let the water sit too long and if you use naphtha, test in an inconspicuous spot..
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Naphtha is just a very high grade of paint thinner and a little "hot." Before that, you might try some turpentine. I like the WD 40 idea because it's basically a solvent too. Be careful if someone says GoofOff. Not real good results with that here.
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Milt, naphtha is a standard cleansing solvent used in the guitar industry.
I would not recommend turpentine. Warm soap and water first.. Last edited by slodave; 11-04-2011 at 04:16 PM.. |
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BTW, just get a bottle of lighter fluid, basically the same thing as naphtha and cheaper.
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Why is that? Turpentine is a basic ingredient to those boutique furniture waxes that you get for fine old pieces, the ones finished with a shellac/ varnish finish. Is a guitar lacquer any less durable? I know as a former painting contractor that naptha (how are we spelling it now?) is very irritable. T is not.
I don't know if that has anything to do with it. |
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I can't give you an answer, other than from what I have read. Warm soap and water first and if that doesn't do it, naphtha or lighter fluid.
Mineral spirits can also be used, but my first two suggestions are the preferred route. |
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Well, just so we agree, turpentine is rather benign and won't hurt much including your skin. In fact some people have used turpentine as a skin treatment, believe it or not. I'll defer to you since I know dick about guitars. I do know something about wood and wood finishing in general, but you, have specialized in an area I haven't visited since just out of high school. That being nitro-cellulose lacquers.
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Quote:
Still, I think Super would be wise to find out just what the finish on the guitar is before digging into a solvent bin. Then start as gentle as possible...hell, maybe a simple automotive "cleaner wax" would do the job...
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"Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) |
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Vodka! Three or four over ice and you won't even notive the tape.
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Quote:
Now after a little more reading I will say this: If you know for sure that the finish is nitro based, do not use anything but the three things I mentioned, even Goo Gone. Warm water and soap first, if that does not work, either naphtha or zippo lighter fluid (Ronsinol). If you know the finish is poly, then Goo Gone should work, but again, test in a hidden area first! Also, do not use alcohol, acetone or WD-40. Don't listen to Sidney, as he really hasn't a clue on this and his answer really isn't an answer.
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I decided to try this first, only with scotch. Seems to be working.......
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That was my bad, Dan. And the problem was solved.
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The finish is pretty 'deep,' making me think it is lacquer. So.....Lacquer Thinner is off the list. Perhaps we'll start with warm, soapy water. If that doesn't work, I'll go back to the scotch which seems to work.
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