I've got a can of this stuff on a shelf at the house. I think I've had it about 15-20 years. It still seems to work well.

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/p...3_front200.jpg

Not a lube per se and not needed in a real 911 but a heat reducer none the less...Coolants!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325135853.jpg

ok, Mike, even tho your chart text is too small for me to read, I have a coolant question...

How often do you need to flush & refill a coolant?

specifically, this is in a VW Vanagon (AL motor parts, so requires an AL compatible coolant)

some people say to just test it every 2 years and add some of the Subaru coolant conditioner (and they leave it unchanged for many years -- one guy has had it in there for > 10 years)

others will change/flush their coolant every 2 years on the dot (even tho the setup with R engine and F radiator) makes it tough to do

Thats a great question - the only answer is "when it needs to be changed'. I know that sounds flip, its not intended to be. Coolant or any fluid for that matter will undergo many chemical changes and become contaminanted over time. The rate and degree is different in every case. The only way ever to know is to test it. Fortunitily testing fluids is very easy and done so either for free or on the cheap at any parts store or garage.

For coolants, the balence between water and glycol is important is is the ability for the coolant to continue to passivate a metal surface. Keep in mind:
If the dilution rate was high, then the following could be experienced:
• Poor heat transfer
• Loss of rust protection
• Excessive coolant costs

If the dilution rate was low, then the following could be experienced:
• Excessive pump wear
• Loss of rust protection

If the pH was high, then the following could be experienced:
• Corrosion

If the Water Hardness was high, then the following could be experienced:
• Deposits

If the Water Hardness was low, then the following could be experienced:
• Foaming
• Metal Oxidation

I would test it every 6 months - but thats just me. Testing is cheap, engines are not...

Thanks, Mike - I had it tested but don't know what sorts of tests they ran.
It was America's Tires or some such shop.

I've seen sets of color change test strips (paper??) for sale but am not sure if they do anything other than pH.

e.g.
http://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519-Coolant-Testing-Strips/dp/B000MIUJMO

Is this site reliable? Is that all I have to do?

http://www.autobytel.com/car-ownership/maintenance-repair/testing-antifreeze-104170/

If you really want to know, then you've gotta tell us how it tastes! ;)

Anyone remember Young Doctors in Love?

Lubey, you familiar with a book called "SHELL LUBRICANTS HANDBOOK"?
I got one on my shelf. A little over 400 pages of stuff that would put most folks to sleep, but I love it. Sure it's a sales brochure but it also offers a whole bunch of info.
We use shell lubricants almost exclusively at work to the tune of about $2.5 mil per year.

Most of the handbook is covered on electronic version at http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/handbook.pdf

Tastes like regular ole piss to me!


Whatever you do, make sure ya read the directions before trying the "4 ball EP weld load" test ;)

Sammy, I have heard of it and do have a copy! I would love the opportunity to dial down the $$$ of lubricants your facility buys. I respect the fact that you have a realtionship with Shell but if I was to show you something they did not offer and didn't jeopordize your relationship with them you wouldn't mind doing a little business with me would ya? After all I'm a pretty good guy.

(AFWIW - the 4-ball can be a real ball buster!)

Looks pretty good! There are other ways to test pH but these test strips are pretty darn effective. You also want to test the water % which can be done with a refractometer (tests the refractive index) or a hydrometer (which tests the density of the mix). Either method is effective but you will need a reference chart and proper testing procedures.

I am actucally looking at buying a testing unit for around $8k for our lab. a company called On-Site analysis has great units for testing all sorts of fluids. They are found in many truck shops. We are going to buy several diferent units not because they are the best but because that is what our customers use to gage their fluids with.

Thx - a Republican wine-maker friend has a refractometer -- wonder if he'll let me put antifreeze in it...

I'll use strips and the hydrometer (they are just the little $10 buck jobs at a parts store, right?).

Yup - the refractomer just takes a drop and should be cleaned with IPA after each use so a sample will not monkey it up. As for the hydrometr, your buddy will have one of those as well to test the ethanol content of his hootch but he may take exception to you raid his wine making tools to test your coolant!

The kind at the parts store is a glorified turkey baster with a plastic BB in it. they work fine. You can also get the glass kind that your bud prolly has. those are better (more sensitive) but fragile.

Thx - it'll be fun to see what he has to say...