Pelican Parts Forums

Pelican Parts Forums (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/)
-   Off Topic Discussions (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/)
-   -   Finally went and did it.... wife is not happy (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/648618-finally-went-did-wife-not-happy.html)

Zeke 01-04-2012 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock (Post 6472082)
Every track seems to have different rules..... The place I will race allows any size/type carb, any fuel, any cam, any displacement, any valvetrain, any crank/rods/pistons, any compression ratio, any waterpump, any fan, any radiator, and any power steering pump.

Now with the above stated..... You MUST have cast iron block, straight plug heads and intake/exhaust manifolds. You MUST have mechanical fuel pump. No MSD ignition allowed.

Anything over 400hp is really not needed as 8" max width wheels shod with non-racing tires must be used (cross section of installed tire must be 10" wide or less and no "snow/mud" tires). I think most guys use "Mastercraft" tires at this track.

I will need to buy tires and purchase/install GM "metric" stock upper control arms as the car currently has tubular non-stock upper arms. This will require some fab work to re-install the stock style mounts. I also will need to locate/purchase some cast iron "Ramshorn" exhaust manifolds and fab up/route a new open exhaust. The PO gave me a cast iron intake manifold to replace the aluminum one currently installed.

With those rules regarding the engine's internals, they should have claiming. Set it at about $3K and you won't find any well used NASCAR motors running to the front.

Tim Hancock 01-04-2012 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeke (Post 6472262)
With those rules regarding the engine's internals, they should have claiming. Set it at about $3K and you won't find any well used NASCAR motors running to the front.

Some guys have a bunch of money in their engines, but with the tire rule on the 3/8 mile clay/dirt track, you just can't use a big bunch of HP without spinning excessively. This track has been running this class for over 30 years with little change to the rules.

I "wish" they would create a "crate" motor class that allowed aluminum intakes and headers as it would take some of the hassle out of gathering up/choosing parts to build.

My friend's son runs Latemodels at this track and even with the WIDE sticky race tires, he can't use all of his 650+ hp. He competes just fine with the guys with 800hp+ and $20K+ in their engines.

Tim Hancock 01-04-2012 11:37 AM

A couple more "ugly" pics..... Gonna be a long winter of fixer upping. ;):D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325709287.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325709380.jpg

Burnin' oil 01-04-2012 02:37 PM

A friend of mine bought a dirt-track car years ago. He and his wife had three kids and no money so he got a $5k cash advance on a credit card. It sat in his dad's shop forever and never raced. It may still be there.

The moral of the story is that it could have been worse, your wife could have married Scott. She should be thankful.

Zeke 01-04-2012 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burnin' oil (Post 6473150)
A friend of mine bought a dirt-track car years ago. He and his wife had three kids and no money so he got a $5k cash advance on a credit card. It sat in his dad's shop forever and never raced. It may still be there.

The moral of the story is that it could have been worse, your wife could have married Scott. She should be thankful.

I've been race wallet stupid, but never like that.

porsche4life 01-04-2012 04:09 PM

If you don't find copious amounts of duct tape and bailing wire, I'm disappointed in the builder....

Superman 01-04-2012 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock (Post 6472749)
A couple more "ugly" pics..... Gonna be a long winter of fixer upping. ;):D

I can forecast the future. The tea leaves say the Sun will rise in the East tomorrow, and Tim Hancock will be gridding in the first race of the upcoming race season. Take it to the bank.

aleerpsoftware 01-04-2012 09:20 PM

wow...cool!

304065 01-05-2012 04:17 AM

Tim your prior 911 experience will give you an advantage at "turning right to go left" . . . :)

Tim Hancock 01-14-2012 11:00 AM

Spent some time today ripping off the bodywork. I did not find anything too horrible yet. After pulling the engine, I "plan" on cleaning the chassis, inspecting, doing some fab work/repairs/mods then give it a "quicky" red paint job.

I "think" I will re-use most of the body panels after some crack/dent fixing and will likely paint them black before re-installing them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326571103.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326571170.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326571238.jpg

Superman 01-14-2012 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock (Post 6493663)
..... give it a "quicky" red paint job.

We're all snickering Tim, at your notion of doing "quicky" or sloppy or incomplete work. That'll happen when the Sun rises in the West while monkeys fly out of...... We have an idea what it will look like before you reassemble.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock (Post 6493663)
I ..... will likely paint them black before re-installing them.

Because black shows dirt best?

Tim Hancock 01-14-2012 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superman (Post 6493712)

Because black shows dirt best?

The nose and rear plastic bumpers come in black..... If I ever replace them, they won't get painted if the car ends up being black as they scraped often in this style of racing. ;) Plus aluminum panels that the race car can be had in black also, so new body panes will be easier to just buy pre-painted. Body panels get lots of tire rubs and black does not show them as much. Any spray can touch up work between new bodypanels will be easy with black vs other colors which are tougher to match.

I REALLY am trying to maintain some common sense on this POS..... It is REALLY tough to resist the urge to strip it to the bare frame, replace much of the tubing, sandblast, epoxy prime and then paint with Imron paint. :)

Zeke 01-14-2012 12:32 PM

That think looks like it was welded up from bed frames and clothes poles.

I used to know some guys that had a late model. They bought an 8' brake and would buy pre-painted AL panels in 4 x 8 sheets. They could bend and hang the whole side of the car in 30 minutes. No painting. After some decals the thing looked as good as new each time they got enough banging to toss the old panels.

Tim Hancock 01-14-2012 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeke (Post 6493830)
That think looks like it was welded up from bed frames and clothes poles.

I used to know some guys that had a late model. They bought an 8' brake and would buy pre-painted AL panels in 4 x 8 sheets. They could bend and hang the whole side of the car in 30 minutes. No painting. After some decals the thing looked as good as new each time they got enough banging to toss the old panels.

Yep.... I intend to make all future side body panels myself using the same pre-colored heets of aluminum.

The chassis consists of a reinforced GM metric frame that goes just past the rear axle.... The rest of the primary structure is mainly 1 3/4 x .095 wall steel tubing which is welded to the existing frame creating a "cage" structure.... pretty standard hobby-stock/street-stock/bomber race car construction. The body is hung on a birdcage type structure consisting of primarily 1/2" square tubing.

Seahawk 01-14-2012 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superman (Post 6493712)
We're all snickering Tim, at your notion of doing "quicky" or sloppy or incomplete work. That'll happen when the Sun rises in the West while monkeys fly out of...

True.

I was repairing a spreader today...lots of rust, little stuff, grind and prep, paint.

Every time I do this type of work I think of Tim.

Weird. It was the violin.

Complete respect.

Tim Hancock 01-14-2012 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seahawk (Post 6493901)

Every time I do this type of work I think of Tim.

Weird. It was the violin.

:D This "aint" no violin :D

Lots of evidence of cobbing nearly everywhere you look on this POS..... Funny thing is that the PO and his son were extremely proud of some of the repairs they showed me when I was buying it. (I kept thinking to myself that the kid should just shut up as the more he pointed out, the more I felt like making like Forest Gump and running out of the garage. :D)

Seahawk 01-14-2012 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock (Post 6493914)
:D This "aint" no violin :D

Brother, whatever you do it is worth the price of admission.

Tim Hancock 01-14-2012 02:05 PM

PO had raced the car at least one season and had NEVER put the car on scales. When I asked him how much lead ballast weight was in the car, he claimed he did not know, but he said he added quite a bit.

It is common to add "some" lead weight to the left rear on these cars to help with left turn only handling, but I took out 520 lbs of it today and have the smashed index finger to prove it. :eek:

I weighed the car and recorded corner weights and suspension settings when I got it home for future reference. The car had a 50/50 front/rear balance and weighed 3090lbs. The cross weight was opposite that it is supposed to be.... I am guessing this guy did not do too well racing it.;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326582321.jpg

Rob Channell 01-14-2012 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hancock (Post 6493783)
I REALLY am trying to maintain some common sense on this POS..... It is REALLY tough to resist the urge to strip it to the bare frame, replace much of the tubing, sandblast, epoxy prime and then paint with Imron paint. :)

Well, you know while you are in there.......


That sure does look like fun. A guy I used to work with did this stuff with his brothers. He told me about one of his cheats.

The racers had to drive off the track directly onto the scales after a race and had a minimum weight along with a maximum percentage of weight that could be on the left side of the car. My friend put a solid lead rod inside of a horizontal roll cage tube. He would use compressed air to blow it over to the driver's side for a race and hold it in place with a small pin sticking through a hole in the roll cage. Then after the race was over he would pull the pin using a string and the cool down lap g forces would slide the lead cylinder back over to the passenger side for the weigh-in.

Keep us posted,please.

Tim Hancock 01-19-2012 10:01 AM

Engine is out and bolted to stand. Going to do a leak down compression check, then tear it at least partially apart to inspect/replace bearings, rings etc.
It seemed to run OK, but PO said after 18 or races on it, it seemed to be getting some blowby out the valve cover breathers.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999424.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999456.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999485.jpg

I am going to pull the gauges from the chassis then attack this thing with butyl cellosolve and a power washer.... One thing I will not tolerate on this race car will be a leaking engine or trans as it makes for a grimy slimy mess when mixed with mud from a dirt track.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999690.jpg


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:31 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website


DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.