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I "wish" they would create a "crate" motor class that allowed aluminum intakes and headers as it would take some of the hassle out of gathering up/choosing parts to build. My friend's son runs Latemodels at this track and even with the WIDE sticky race tires, he can't use all of his 650+ hp. He competes just fine with the guys with 800hp+ and $20K+ in their engines. |
A couple more "ugly" pics..... Gonna be a long winter of fixer upping. ;):D
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325709287.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1325709380.jpg |
A friend of mine bought a dirt-track car years ago. He and his wife had three kids and no money so he got a $5k cash advance on a credit card. It sat in his dad's shop forever and never raced. It may still be there.
The moral of the story is that it could have been worse, your wife could have married Scott. She should be thankful. |
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If you don't find copious amounts of duct tape and bailing wire, I'm disappointed in the builder....
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wow...cool!
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Tim your prior 911 experience will give you an advantage at "turning right to go left" . . . :)
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Spent some time today ripping off the bodywork. I did not find anything too horrible yet. After pulling the engine, I "plan" on cleaning the chassis, inspecting, doing some fab work/repairs/mods then give it a "quicky" red paint job.
I "think" I will re-use most of the body panels after some crack/dent fixing and will likely paint them black before re-installing them. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326571103.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326571170.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326571238.jpg |
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I REALLY am trying to maintain some common sense on this POS..... It is REALLY tough to resist the urge to strip it to the bare frame, replace much of the tubing, sandblast, epoxy prime and then paint with Imron paint. :) |
That think looks like it was welded up from bed frames and clothes poles.
I used to know some guys that had a late model. They bought an 8' brake and would buy pre-painted AL panels in 4 x 8 sheets. They could bend and hang the whole side of the car in 30 minutes. No painting. After some decals the thing looked as good as new each time they got enough banging to toss the old panels. |
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The chassis consists of a reinforced GM metric frame that goes just past the rear axle.... The rest of the primary structure is mainly 1 3/4 x .095 wall steel tubing which is welded to the existing frame creating a "cage" structure.... pretty standard hobby-stock/street-stock/bomber race car construction. The body is hung on a birdcage type structure consisting of primarily 1/2" square tubing. |
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I was repairing a spreader today...lots of rust, little stuff, grind and prep, paint. Every time I do this type of work I think of Tim. Weird. It was the violin. Complete respect. |
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Lots of evidence of cobbing nearly everywhere you look on this POS..... Funny thing is that the PO and his son were extremely proud of some of the repairs they showed me when I was buying it. (I kept thinking to myself that the kid should just shut up as the more he pointed out, the more I felt like making like Forest Gump and running out of the garage. :D) |
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PO had raced the car at least one season and had NEVER put the car on scales. When I asked him how much lead ballast weight was in the car, he claimed he did not know, but he said he added quite a bit.
It is common to add "some" lead weight to the left rear on these cars to help with left turn only handling, but I took out 520 lbs of it today and have the smashed index finger to prove it. :eek: I weighed the car and recorded corner weights and suspension settings when I got it home for future reference. The car had a 50/50 front/rear balance and weighed 3090lbs. The cross weight was opposite that it is supposed to be.... I am guessing this guy did not do too well racing it.;) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326582321.jpg |
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That sure does look like fun. A guy I used to work with did this stuff with his brothers. He told me about one of his cheats. The racers had to drive off the track directly onto the scales after a race and had a minimum weight along with a maximum percentage of weight that could be on the left side of the car. My friend put a solid lead rod inside of a horizontal roll cage tube. He would use compressed air to blow it over to the driver's side for a race and hold it in place with a small pin sticking through a hole in the roll cage. Then after the race was over he would pull the pin using a string and the cool down lap g forces would slide the lead cylinder back over to the passenger side for the weigh-in. Keep us posted,please. |
Engine is out and bolted to stand. Going to do a leak down compression check, then tear it at least partially apart to inspect/replace bearings, rings etc.
It seemed to run OK, but PO said after 18 or races on it, it seemed to be getting some blowby out the valve cover breathers. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999424.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999456.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999485.jpg I am going to pull the gauges from the chassis then attack this thing with butyl cellosolve and a power washer.... One thing I will not tolerate on this race car will be a leaking engine or trans as it makes for a grimy slimy mess when mixed with mud from a dirt track. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326999690.jpg |
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