Looking at older suburbans. what to watch out for....

[KaptKaos]

I am considering picking up an older suburban (mid to late 90s) on the cheap. I don't drive much for work anymore, and I'd like something with a lot of space to haul stuff/kids/etc...

Cheap is less than $3k, and for that price, I am looking at stuff with more than 130k miles.

I've never owned a GM product, and not sure exactly what to be on the look out for. Anyone have any hints/tips/insight? Any good web sites I should look into? With a car that old, what should I expect from the engine/trans? How's the electrical in those?

Thanks in advance.

[Racerbvd]

I have a 99 2500, it is a real work horse, but the common issue with GM trucks of that vintage is fuel pump failures, other than that, mine has been great..

[kinein]

well i had a 90 chevy 4x4 suburban it was a simple 350 small block, it was easy to work on compare to the mid 90's. 89-90 are the same for 3k you can get a very clean suburban. gd luck. i do miss it

[kinein]

[RANDY P]

Welcome to the world of the Bowtie- everything is cheap to fix.

Listen for strange noises in the rear end, check tranny for smooth shifting, smell the fluid for burns, if it has DexCool (Pink) antfreeze check for leaks around intake manifold, chunks in the radiator check for heat / AC operation then change the radiator cap if it's black and not aluminum.

Try to buy a 97 UP since those have the better Vortec 350s.

Seriously, tho a reasonably maintained SBC from that era will go over 250K no problem. I just bought an 89 Silverado with 269K and a recent tranny rebuild for $1.8K and it uses less than a 1qt / 1000 mi. Original engine, no joke.

Stories like this are typical. If you really need a good laugh check out new crate motors direct from GM- nothing compared to Porsche prices.

rjp

[RANDY P]

PS Craigslist they are all over the place. don't settle they pop up everywhere for cheap.

Electrical systems if it's working OK leave it alone. No real problems I know of...

[Rob Channell]

Randy's idea on the 97 for the 5.7 liter Vortec motor is good. I like it better than both the 93 5.7 liter and 2003 5.3 liter I have owned.
There is a chevy truck forum out there somewhere that has some decent searchable information to get an idea of how common these failures are.

Here are a few issues I have run across:
Fuel pump - Fuel pump has been a problem(once). It requires dropping the gas tank to replace and most mechanics around here recommend AC Delco replacement over the cheaper stuff because it is so much labor time to replace it and the failure rates for the cheaper import parts are supposed to be higher.
Transmission - The transmission specialist that rebuilt mine said the 4L60E transmissions seem to last to somewhere between 120-140k. A rebuild was ~1.1k with him doing it all. For my other vehicle I found one used out of a wreck that had $20k on it for $400. Most used ones have less pedigree and cost closer to $700. Not worth the risk IMHO.
Plastic intake manifold - There is a plastic intake piece that becomes unsealed and/or warps after so many miles or heat cycles. Fixing this was around $700 IIRC.
Brakes - cheap. I did them myself. New drums, discs, shoes, pads. Few hundred for all
A/C system - not cheap, $1.5-2k for full system
Door handles break. I have had one exterior and three interior to break. cheap. The interior are in the "help" section at Autozone. ~$15

[RANDY P]

The thing about a Chevy is the knowledge is so common you can fix them anywhere, anytime, for little to no money. You will never, ever be stranded for long.

It won't screw with you if you use decent parts and take care of it.

rjp

[mikester]

uh...Really? YOU'RE going to buy a car that needs to be smogged in CA?

[Jim Bremner]

I heard that there was a series of a few years that didn't have enough brakes to STOP the 'burb.

[stomachmonkey]

Have an 01 Tahoe purchased new.

100k+ on it.

Repairs so far.

Fuel pump. Did the drop myself, one day out and in.

Ball joints.

Parking brakes, there's a recall on them, they drag and wear prematurely.

They pretty much run forever and there is no issue getting parts, seems like most supermarkets have a GM aisle.

[Rot 911]

Not much to worry about, they are just enclosed Chevy pickup trucks. If it isn't rusted out, and runs okay, I doubt you will have many problems.

[schamp]

Get one with a gas engine. The 6.5 diesel has lots and lots of problems. On brakes, there are aftermarket kits to add bigger front brakes. Secret Service had the kit made so theres would stop. If you buy in summer make sure the heater works- check under car to see if the heater cores are leaking. Front and right rear.

[Fishman7]

I went old school Burb.

[LWJ]

I have to concur with what other folks have said.

I picked up a 91 R2500 for $850. A/C didn't work so I got it all replaced (not the evaporator) for $900.

I read about the 4l60e being kind of a weak link so I bought the 3/4 ton with a 480le. No problems yet.

I wish I had the Vortec. I have a 350 with the simple fuel injection. Too early to remember what it is called. It works ok. I get about 15 on a highway - but I try not to check it as my math could be suspect and I might be a little off!

In my life, I have owned a 73 Blazer, 80 and 86 250, 91 landcruiser and this Sub. The Sub is so far ahead of the other rigs I can't begin to tell. It has an overdrive, you can sleep covered in the back, my whole family, large dog, and weeks worth of camping gear go in.

I really like the beef of the 3/4 ton. Mine has a solid axle, which some wheelers prefer. It does beat the hell out of you on the road. If I were to do it again, I would go independent front with a vortec or diesel.

This will be the biggest bang for buck you have ever experienced in a vehicle. Mine isn't super pretty but we have a forecast for snow today. What do you think I will be driving? My 911? Nope.

Have a good day,
Larry

[kaisen]

1992 was the first year of the bodystyle
1995 was the first year of the new dash and interior (airbag), but still throttle-body injected (TBI)
1996 was the first year of the Vortec (port injection) and OBD-II
1999 was the last year of the bodystyle

So, finding a 1996-1999 would be preferable.
A 3/4 ton (2500) Sub would give you bigger brakes, heavier duty (E-load) tires, full-floating rear differential, bigger ring gear, heavier-duty bearings, heavier duty transmission.....
But, if you can find one with 3.73 gearing you won't give up much in fuel economy or real world driveability

If you are towing, the 3/4 is the cat's meow. If you're using it as a car, it doesn't matter

[jhynesrockmtn]

I had a 99 1500. It was very reliable. Ran it up close to 100k with no issues I can recall. Weak brakes have been mentioned. It was starting to get sloppy and need shocks and some front end work. Nothing I'm not facing my 2005 Acura right now at 95k. I loved the room. Could take out the back seat, fold up the middle and sleep comfortably in it at bike races.

[bt1211]

****Highjack***
Kaisen I PMed you

Sorry about the Highjack

[KaptKaos]

Originally Posted by mikester

uh...Really? YOU'RE going to buy a car that needs to be smogged in CA?

the minivan ain't cutting it for road trips.

[9dreizig]

I've got a 98 Tahoe that I bought new,, it's got 260k on it,, still runs like a clock!!!