Block SHOT?
 

Well Fellas,

Need your opinion:

After cleaning my son's 190E block surface of all carbon deposits, I discovered these deep pot marks where the radiator inlets/outlets are:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...126_160407.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...126_160337.jpg

So am I to assume it is shot?

Here are the Cylinder surfaces, no pot marks, smooth and even:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...126_160349.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...126_160424.jpg



The good thing is I am learning alot and this is a good break in for me when I re-build my baby 911, boy am I learing :eek:

Jim,

I would assume that it would be corrosion,although you wouldn't figure but if your head gaskets didn't leak before they won't leak next time around either !
I wouldn't worry too much my friend :)

Cheers !
Phil

Oh Brother Phil!

That is great news! I needed some thank you kind sir!

Would it be too crazy to place some sealant there to take up the gap so the radiator fluid will not further corrod it? I have some engine case sealant from Toyota that could withstand the heat and pressure once dry or should I just let the OEM head gasket try to take up the gap on it's own?

So appreciative,

Jim

P.S. Yes, it did not leak before the head got warped.

Blue Hylomar from a spray can directly on the gasket. Thin and even.

Jim,

I use this stuff on all the snowmobile engine cases i reassemble.It stays flexible and won't dry and crack ...
Been using it for many years and most of the repair shops use it as well,although there are multiple good products around !

Cheers !
Phil

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1327627987.jpg

You guys are awesome!

Thanks so much yet again and again.

:D

If you can't find Threebond 1104, Go to the local Honda bike shop and get Hondabond. Same stuff just repackaged. Use a THIN coat.

sealant on the block side is not a bad idea, but it doesn't look too bad. The piston heads look good too (for that age), at least they don't look that bad if not too good.

Where can I get the Hylomar Blue SPRAY? I see it online but not at a FLAPS

Jim,

Hylomar Blue jointing compound is something we use in the aerospace industry but if you check Aircraft Spruce.com they are a big supplier of anything aircraft related and they might carry it ...

Cheers brother :)

Phil

I'd use threebond.

Well, I spoke to Bill at Engine Machine Service, Inglewood.

Bill truly believes sealant is not needed if using OEM type head gasket but he will take a look at the pic and the gasket to make sure.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...127_164403.jpg
after ScotchBrite :eek: pink stuff is Kroil to keep it from rusting while I wait for the head.

He will be replacing the exhaust valves, resurface and valve work on my head next week :D No Crack, so relieved.

I would not use sealant either, I have done gazillions of head gaskets over the years, and see corrosion around ports like this frequently. I am quite sure a factory head gasket will seal that right up, and give you zero problems.

wow. Beautiful.

+1:)
a.

Bill is right. This (now that I see the whole thing) doesnt need any sealant. Looks fine to me.

you can trowel on some JB weld using a safety razor blade. jaguar recommends that FWIW. prep well, then block it smooth if needed.

are you from the south?i thought only us rednecks used JB weld.....and duct tape to fix things.:D

i did this on the output flange of my tranny for my BMW.
bought a used gear box, $200, (man i love the price of BMW stuff). somebody gouged the flange removing the seal. i JB welded it, then using part of the old seal as a sanding block, i sanded it smooth. i have not noticed any oil on the floor yet.

the trick is to clean it very very good. you have to remove ANY oil. i would spray carb cleaner and blow it dry, then perhaps some paint thinner, something that will not leave a residue.

for decreasing I recommend Dawn Dish Washing Soap HOT water...

HOT water rinse

(repeat)

followed by isopropanol/alcohol (displaces the water)

followed by Acetone (displaces the alcohol and evaporates quickly)

just saying,....that's how we do it in the Labs :)

(soapy water isnt always the easiest thing to use cleaning spots on large items and tends to propagate so keep it contained or the oil pan might be cleaner than you want it)

I don't think you need to do the JB weld grout job on this. If you do decide to do it, in addition to degreasing the area, you'll also want to rough up the area to give the JB Weld good adhesion.

JB Weld is great stuff. I've used it to fix cracked radiators, mufflers, engine blocks..