Anyone done retaining wall/block, flower bed?

[rnln]

I plan to do a short, around 1.5' or 2' height, flower bed. I found the block I want from lowes. The problem is that this block doesn't have the extra edge. You know most of the blocks has the extra edge for the blocks to hold on to each other. This block doesn't have it.
Do you think I need to use cement/motar or it will be fine just stacking 3 or 4 blocks high? I afraid the dirt will push it and it will fall apart.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_357608-215-NA_4294857247_4294937087_?productId=3623466&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity _sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Pavers%2BEdgers%2BRetaining%2BWal ls_4294857247_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis _ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_quantity_sold%7C1&facetInfo=

[jorian]

Allan block style blocks have the edge you mention and also a 2-3 degree back set built in to the block so that it will resist this pressure. The key is laying the bottom row correctly with the right sub-base or it will fail. I wouldn't use a block like you have described for anything other than a decorative border. Allan block makes it easy so why take the chance.

[willtel]

I used the type with the lip and they say you can stack them 4' high before they need reinforcement. With a wall 4 blocks high you shouldn't have any issues with those stones. I wanted to use those as they look more natural than the ones I have but mine was too tall.

Here is mine. 2.5 pallets of stone and 15 yards of fill all moved by hand. I did find a Civil War coat button when I was digging the trench for the first course.

IMG_4740 by willtel, on Flickr

[wdfifteen]

1 1/2 or 2 feet high? Bury a course of 16 inch block for a foundation. Drive stakes about a foot apart and three feet deep on a line that will define the inside of the stone wall. Attach some heavy fence wire to the stakes and dry stack the blocks against the fence wire. Lay up a couple of layers of silt barrier against the fence wire and backfill. It will last better than a mortared wall because it can move with freeze/thaw and wet/dry cycles, but won't move enough to come apart or even notice.

[enzo1]

glue, the kind that comes out of a caulking gun...

[enzo1]

like this... Loctite PL Landscape Block Adhesive from Loctite Adhesives

[look 171]

What are you holding up is the better question. How much force is coming from behind the little wall? 2' tall, I wouldn't worry about it unless there's a steep hill side behind it. If you want to build a solid wall, pour a footing 1" deep and finish it about 8" below grade. Stack the stone on top of it. Use mortar or glue. Again, I don't know how much soil is this little hing holding up. Keep this in mind, you will see the stone wall fail long before it will actually come crashing down. You will have plenty of time to shovel some soil back and re-stack one section. That's what I would do. Show us a pic of this hill side will ya?

Jeff

[billybek]

You don't have a frost problem with this wall and it is going to be pretty short. Shouldn't fail unless you have a hillside pushing against it or a lot of water entering the flower bed.

Dig down, get rid of the black dirt until you hit clay. Tamp the sub soil with a hand tamper or 4x4 post. Put in a layer of crushed rock and compact with a hand tamper to get a good solid level base.

Lay your first course and beat them into submission to get them level. Run level lines or maybe try a laser level.
Short wall like that should be pretty easy to get a decent looking wall.
Buy more brick than you need as they probably wont be well calibrated for exact thickness and you can try different blocks in to keep the wall level. Return your overages after completion.

I used PL block adhesive and it worked well.

[rnln]

I know, but I like the look of the dirty old rock.

Willtel, so baseon your personal experience, you think it's ok for around 4 rows of no lip?
Talk about digging, oh man. Toughest job, compare to P. car maintenance

The flower bed will be between 1.5' to 2' tall. The depth of the bed is between 3' to 8' deep. it will have dirty in there. Other than that, maybe some palm trees.

I think I have enough information. I will use the PL to make sure it won't fall.

Funny, I was working on rebuilding my shower and leave it to work on my flower bed, because I thought it should be quick and easy as stacking stones. Look like I was wrong, again.

Thanks everyone

Originally Posted by jorian

Allan block style blocks have the edge you mention and also a 2-3 degree back set built in to the block so that it will resist this pressure. The key is laying the bottom row correctly with the right sub-base or it will fail. I wouldn't use a block like you have described for anything other than a decorative border. Allan block makes it easy so why take the chance.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by enzo1

glue, the kind that comes out of a caulking gun...

This is what I did. I built a block wall 4 foot high and glued all of the the blocks together. I layed a concrete foundation with a drain pipe at the rear so I felt better. It's really not hard at all.

[willtel]

Originally Posted by rnln

Willtel, so baseon your personal experience, you think it's ok for around 4 rows of no lip?

I think you will be just fine, the adhesive will just be extra insurance. Not to mention the dirt in most flower beds is light and loamy. Mine is holding up Georgia red clay and has a french drain emptying out into the back of the wall to drain the side of my lot. It will weep for a day or so after a heavy rain.

Check with Lowes too. When I bought mine they had a little pamphlet that described maximum heights and stacking and cutting techniques of the stone they sold. The first course is the only hard one.

[rnln]

Now I have question about pavers. Pavers yard like below, does anyone know if they have concrete underneath of just linner and sand?
What I hate about linner and sand is that after couple of years down the road, grass start going through them and sneak in between the pavers. For drive way, sure it has to have some level of concrete right?
Thanks.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/grd/2816707426.html

[enzo1]

check out youtube.... here's 1, might answer your question

[look 171]

Originally Posted by rnln

Now I have question about pavers. Pavers yard like below, does anyone know if they have concrete underneath of just linner and sand?
What I hate about linner and sand is that after couple of years down the road, grass start going through them and sneak in between the pavers. For drive way, sure it has to have some level of concrete right?
Thanks.

COOL PAVERS AND FIREPIT.........FOR THE YARD...........!

Do you already have a concrete driveway there? If so, just thin set it to the concrete. I like concrete, but then again, I am nuts and over built everything. My clients love that about us.

Sand will work, but over time, it will sink and creep on you if you are on a hill.

[rnln]

Enzo, wow, I thought sand underneath is only on landscape. I might be wrong but how can sand stay over time when cars driving over it all the time?

Look, My drive way is already concrete but there are cracks. 1- if I pavers over it, won't the paver yard crack in the future too? 2- my new yard will be higher than the garage level, at least at the paver's high.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by rnln

Enzo, wow, I thought sand underneath is only on landscape. I might be wrong but how can sand stay over time when cars driving over it all the time?

Look, My drive way is already concrete but there are cracks. 1- if I pavers over it, won't the paver yard crack in the future too? 2- my new yard will be higher than the garage level, at least at the paver's high.

Personally I don't like to lay pavers or brick over sand. You answered your question, but people do it all the time. When people ask me I often say do you normally see it in a commercial setting like a University or a public park or building? If not, you know why?

The only concern to that is water. You don't want to trap water in your garage. A solution to that is a French drain. That involves cutting the concrete and running pipe. You can lay the brick or pavers over cracked up concrete. Another solution is to cut out the cracked section and replace with an other pour. Pin it with rebar if necessary. stick the pavers over that. Get us a pic.

[PorscheGAL]

You can actually buy an epoxy sand that is brushed in the seams but stays a little better than decomposed granite (which is what you would use, not sand). My husband and I did a walkway. We Jack hammered 7 tons of concrete to lay a rock base, dg, and then pavers. In doing a driveway, you will need a thicker base and thicker pavers than a walkway.

[72doug2,2S]

My advice is
1) Dig a base
2) Gravel
3) Level the entire wall area!!! *** (Nothing is more disappointing than an unlevel retaining wall)
4) Largest stones on the bottom.
5) Fill empty areas with very small rocks.

[72doug2,2S]

This is what I mean by not level. Don't do this.

[enzo1]

what about staining your concrete, it's not hard if you don't get too fancy, dunno, if cracks can be fixed, etc