Classic Mustang Resources?
 

Paul will love this thread......;)

As I posted here, I lost my grandfather about six months ago. He was the single biggest influence in my life, and I can trace most of my interests and positive attributes back to him, particularly my love of aviation and cars. My fondest memories include flying in his Beechcraft Bonanza and riding in his 1970 Mustang convertible. I have my chance at the Mustang if I want it, which I do. I looked at it yesterday and it was a flashback to my childhood, I love the thought of taking my kids for a ride in it just like he did me.

So, sentimental stuff aside, I'm probably getting a 1970 Mustang convertible, 302 2bbl, automatic, red over white with a white top. My dad drove it briefly to move it and tells me that the exhaust is shot, the brakes are nearly frozen up, the driver's side window track or regulator is messed up, needs new seat vinyl, needs a new top, needs new door cards, and needs an ignition switch. On the upside my grandfather fixed the rust decades ago, the interior is mostly good, the drivetrain is solid (but original), and it has a decent respray. So what are the go to recourses for information and parts? I'm aware of NPD and Google finds about a million more, what is the Pelican of classic Mustangs?

Virginia Classic Mustang - Mustang Parts

This was the goto parts place when I was into mustangs.

Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Mustang Parts & Performance - American Muscle - Free Shipping!

MustangForums.com Mustang Forums

Ford Mustang - GT - Shelby - Cobra - Classic Mustangs

Switches, Trim Panels items in Greenleaf Prime Salvage store on eBay!

The internet Mustang sources are HUGE. This only scratches the surface, but should get you started.

Tousley Ford is a highly regarded parts source for Bullitt owners, not sure how much they have for a '70 though.

I have a '67 coupe that I'm (infrequently) working on...trying to do the restomod/trans am thing. I've been going here: Vintage Mustang Forums . Nicest surprise; parts prices. Largest disappointment; some of the forum postings must be made by folks with extra chromosomes.

I've been pricing parts, they are insanely cheap! Engine rebuild kit for $350? Replace every suspension bushing, joint, shocks, and springs for just a little over $500? I can handle this.....

Insanely cheap with alot of really good quality as well (not all vendors - pick and choose). Everything you want, might want, didn't know you wanted - it's out there for those cars.

angela

I might know a little about them.

There's stangnet and the coral as well.

What's your goal with the car?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330321611.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330321629.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330321648.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330321699.jpg

Jim, my goal is to make it a fun driver, improving on the original without ruining its original character. I'd like to add some bracing and upgrade the suspension, but I want it to still be comfortable on the street. I'd love some feedback on that topic, as I'm not sure where to start. I don't envision any track time with it.

I'd like to restore the cosmetics without getting too far away from original, it needs seat covers, a new top, door panels, and a few other oddball things. I will be adding a set of Torq Thrust wheels (or similar) and modern tires. As far as I know the drivetrain is still the totally original 302 2bbl and automatic, you still have to add lead to the gas so it may be unrebuilt. Eventually I'd like to do some sort of performance rebuild, near term I'll look at what bolt on options are available. I suspect it has drums so I'd like to convert to discs, especially since the brakes are already shot.

Yours, by the way, is fantastic. How does it ride on the street?

Matt,

Sounds like a great opportunity! Did your Grandfather buy it new?

I'd love to see some pictures.

Torque Thrust? For a modern version, check here. Measure carefully...these custom made for backspace.

Wheelsforless - Product Catalog - Search Result Page

Matt,

What I would do is add bracing from the shock towers. If you want to add plenty of stiffness there's a 23 piece kit from Dr. Gas. They include shock towers from the inside and the outside, There's other plates that stiffen the footwell area and the sub-frame. These Mustangs are made up of folded sheet metal. I would say that most of the sheet metal is in the 16 gauge or thinner.

Don't worry about high rate of spring rate. GT springs are plenty soft around 500#'s I ran 900 pound springs on the front. Rear springs are 160# and I had 250# springs. It rode like a honda civic.

Other area of flex is the rear shackles for the leaf springs I had 1/4 plate aluminum shackles that had 1/2" bolts vs. the tiny stamped steel ones with 7/16" bolts.

Front A-arms can get the "Shelby drop" it changes the arc of the a-arms as the wheel rises. There's a strut that locates the lower a-arm Don't get fancy with aftermarket bushings, There's a bind in the system and you will crack the mounts if your bushing is too stiff.

A really cool race shop on the east coast is Cobra Automotive. YES, you want to keep the car as stock as you can, they can help you make it safer to drive.

Good news is that the bugs of the early cars are worked out by 1970! That and they no longer had a solid non collapsing steering shaft like '67 and older.

Paul, I know he didn't buy it new. I need to check with my grandmother but I believe it was 1979. I know he's had it as long as I can remember.

No pictures right now, I need to get it home but there's a pesky 996 in my garage right now. I'm hoping to have it gone within a month to make room for the new project.

I'm a big fan of the Torq Thrust D, I think they look great on the classic Mustang and the gray center/polished lip would look really good on the red car.

My son has a 66 notch back that he is "fixin' up". He has a new front after market (not cheep) suspension on order.

At the moment it is up on a rack at the body shop. I wandered around underneath it. If ever a car needed seam welding, that is it and it has very little rust being a CA car (blasted & semi-primed). The assembly is gnarly. He says he can't DIY it (& the shop hours would kill him).....neither could I before I did my 914 (which was a LOT more well assembled).

I think DOD lost out on that argument. He's spending a fair amount of cash on the thing......347 & 5 speed. Telling him the foundation is the most important didn't cut it. "It's a street car, dad.".....yeah,well.... I won't disown him.:D

Jim, thanks for the feedback. I need to do a LOT of research, but with it being a convertible some chassis stiffening is going to be essential. I'll ping you once I think I know what I want to do, since it seems that you've been there done that. A couple questions:

What are the best books/manuals for these cars?
I assume from your above post that you don't recommend polyurethane bushings? The Energy kit is tempting because it's priced well and all-encompassing, but I also don't want a harsh ride or squeaking.
What did you do on yours for brakes?

Come on Wayne, you know you want too.

Pelican Parts; Mustang section

my friend had a 69. not much change for the 70 car right? i love those years.

1970 front end is a little different, it has vents on the outboard corners and the lights moved inboard a bit. Probably some other differences too, I'm no expert. 1970 was the last year of what I consider to be the real classic Mustangs, after that they started growing bigger and got weird looking.

That is exactly the way I'd do it, not that it matters, but the original character is so key. Speeder and I were discussing this on the phone a few days ago (I'm looking for a 60s/70s Targa) and I want what the 356 I own now has: great mechanics, reasonable patina and all the drive you want for it's age.

I'm looking forward to watching this progress, Matt. The car simply could not be in better hands.

Well, I just gotta say it.
 

Matt, welcome to the dark side...SmileWavy