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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 3,963
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Get a 8'- 10" piece of 2' X 2" angle iron and drill a hole in so the upward angle is snug against the joist. Then drill two smaller holes in the upward section and lag bolt the joist to the angle iron. You can notch out the angle iron so the nut can be tightened down if needed. Don't cut your joists you weaken them.
__________________
Bunch of old cars 
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03-24-2012, 02:34 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,253
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Lag screws won't work very well. It needs to be a through bolt with washers on both sides.
IMHO, removing the smallest amount of material in the band/joist won't do any harm. Obviously, hogging it out or removing an excess will be detrimental. You can always fab a washer with an offset hole and size it accordingly. Of course, securing the bottom plate and nothing else will only lead to your house being moved or lifted off the foundation. Your bottom plate will still be there however. |
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03-24-2012, 03:21 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 17,410
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forget about sawall or banging the material with a chisel. Use a ling 3/16 or 1/4" drill bit and drill out the bottom of the joist a little so you can tap the washer in there. tighten the nut and off you go. Again, shear the whole wall if you can afford to loose the 5/8" of space and drywall on tho of it. Put the washer in the tighten the bolt and enjoy the house. fix the hole and make sure its waterproof.
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03-24-2012, 03:26 PM
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AutoBahned
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thx all
using my SawZall + hammer & chisel for not quite an hour got room on the rim board for me to slip a Simpson Bearing plate on it the nut doesn't go all the way down tho - so good call on the person who spotted that should be good enuff I guess I will not be sealing it up for a while, and there are other weaknesses to be addressed first, so I may use one of those UF things and then figure out a way to hide it I'll post some more pics for your amusement in a while... |
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03-24-2012, 03:41 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,253
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Installing osb/plywood on the inside will work as a shear wall, depending on location, but for hold down power, it needs to be in the outside, overlapping the 1st and 2nd floor band. Offset each piece 4' OC as well.
Quote:
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03-24-2012, 03:50 PM
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AutoBahned
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"for hold down power"
Is that hold down power for hurricanes (wind loads) or for earthquakes?? I grew up in Louisiana so have seen some impressive... ah... upforces, but now live in Oregon with no big wind storms. The problem here is earthquakes. They tell us ours are more rare than in Calif. but when one hits it will be even worse than in Calif. |
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03-24-2012, 03:55 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 17,410
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Hold down? That may require ripping up a good portion of the building. As for the UFP clips, you might able to hide it with a big crown molding if interior design allows.
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03-24-2012, 05:06 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,253
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Here in Charleston SC, we have to worry about wind and seismic both. I would say it's for both.
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03-24-2012, 09:15 PM
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AutoBahned
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thx
I am going to pull a few quotes out of this thread and start a new one on wall reinforcement or shear walls |
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03-25-2012, 11:18 AM
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AutoBahned
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here is the overall view on this thing:
 the area of interest is behind that pipe |
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03-26-2012, 11:49 AM
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AutoBahned
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  I spent over 5 bucks on this. On to the insulation... |
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03-26-2012, 11:51 AM
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