summer home improvement project

[Taz's Master]

This summer I would like to cover a pre-cast concrete wall (brick ties installed) with natural stone. The wall is the south face of my garage and covered by an extended roof (to create a porch). I've never done this before, any tips, or reccomended resources would be appreciated.

[look 171]

boulders or stone tiles? Thinset is the trick for the most part. Clean the brick and set your stone on top of that.

[Taz's Master]

Field stone that I've collected for a couple of years. No bricks, but there is a brick ledge at the base of the wall. It is clean and protected. 2 windows, a man door (as opposed to an overhead garage door) and an electric meter base for increasing the degree of difficulty.

Any recommendation as to minimum or maximum thickness of the stone, or type, or method of application of mortar? Should I apply mortar to the wall, or should I let the ties hold the stone to the wall? I just need to know stuff like that. You know, everything a mason has learned over their career. Obviously I can't learn it all, but this is a project I want to do myself, and while I know it won't be a professional job, I do want to do a good job.

[pavulon]

subscribing

[TimT]

You are going to want to keep the existing wall moist..

The day before you start to apply the veneer, wet the surface down a few times...

Before you mud the wall and set the first course... mist the substrate... This will help the bond between the existing pre-cast/mortar/stone....

There is a bit of a "rule of thumb for alignment of joints"... Don't have that info handy and It is past my bed time LOL

You want to fill build up a nice mud (mortar) bed for each course.. all voids should be filled... "pointed"

For a veneer to last you need a chemical bond... i.e. between the existing and new..

and a mechanical bond... the ties..

Search for Ashlar stone veneer and you will see some images regarding joint layout... this applies to dressed or field stone

[john70t]

I'd think that scaring the surface with relief cuts might help the bonding, but not sure.

I was interested in this as well.
As for the mortar I think there are types N, O, and S (NOS Dude!) amoung others, and each are designed for a certain type of usage in application and climate. Portland mix is hard and doesn't absorb water, and Lime is softer but adheres better.
Not sure about the best for your project.

Some links:
1860's Foundation Wall Parging - Building & Construction - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum
How To Repair Crumbling Cement And Mortar? - General Discussion - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum
Type S Mortar - General Discussion - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum

[A930Rocket]

N = Normal
S = Severe

Normal works for just about everything.

[look 171]

If its stone veneer, then use a thinset to set it directly onto the concrete wall. Something like Marbleset will work or some of the Mapei products will work. I really like Mapei products. Pop for their addmix. they are $$$ but works well. I think He mention field stone. Actual stones he collected.

[Zeke]

Build the ends and corners up a few feet first and fill in the field.

[Taz's Master]

The project is progressing. I've got no real insights other than: the tips here are quite helpful, mortar is very abrasive to fingertips, and don't work to exhaustion, cleanup is important and you don't want to be so tired you skimp. I'm about 1/4 through the project.

[JavaBrewer]

I hate working with gloves but when dealing with mortar and stone it's mandatory. Saves your finger tips big time. Get some of those orange rubber gloves and plan on throwing the pair away at the end of each day.

"Don't work to exhaustion" - VERY WISE! Take breaks and stretch out, walk around, get something to eat or drink. You will enjoy the job more and in so doing the end result will be better. End the day with a visual inspection and a beer in hand. Post pictures!!

[Zeke]

How are you employing the ties? I might have put some open mesh on the wall and used the ties to secure as well as a few additional attachments.

When you get to the bottom of the window sills, build a buck to hold the sides and especially the top as you go up. You can point in those surfaces once the buck is removed.

Oh, and make it so you can take it down from within. No screws or nails from the outside. Use corner cleats or blocks to hold the frame. When you remove the blocks, the frame should implode.

[Taz's Master]

The ties get employed as I go. Sometimes flat behind a stone, sometimes they can go above a stone into a joint. I don't know what I'm doing, so if that's wrong, what should I do?

Like the high on the sides fill the middle tip, thanks for the bucks suggestion. It seems obvious in reflecting on the process, but I had come up with a different (and worse) idea.

And yes I need to wear gloves, day 2 was much more comfortable with them.