And this is why you don't use the joints for attachment points. No need to put expansion forces there even though you would have to move several courses of brick to lift the joint.

How to use a lag shield (and why do they call them "shields?"):
Drill hole the correct size.
Drill to the correct depth. Tape on the bit or a depth gauge on the drill motor.
Clean out the hole thoroughly with air blown through a flexible tube.
Put a little glue on the shield, can be white glue, poly like Gorilla, or some epoxy.
Insert and tighten lag lightly. Use washers under the lags and under the bracket to level out. At least one washer under the bracket will help the shield from pulling out.
Re-tighten only enough to snug up well the next day.

Yeah that was my concern, that the TV hanging off an arm might pull the lag bolts.

That was my next thought.

But I think lags will be easier to undo?

How do you remove epoxy from the exterior?

The Hilti system uses mesh sleeves that are inserted into holes drilled in the brick, then filled with epoxy. You insert an appropriate fastener into the sleeve after the epoxy goes in. There is no epoxy on the face of the brick.

Removel is not as easy as just unscrewing a lag bolt. However you do it, you're going to have holes to fill if you remove the bracket down the road. I'd just take out those bricks and install new ones at that point. It's not that big a deal to do.

If you want to minimize the loads and the size of the anchors needed, throw away the bracket you bought and make your own mount that spans between the two walls and hang the TV from that. If you do it right, the loads can be essentially all in shear, which makes them very small. In that case, relatively small anchors will work.

JR

Brick should be fine. My 40" is mounted to brick but it is just a flat mount. It surprised me how strong the lag bolts felt once in there.

True, but my basic point of not much weight is still in effect. I mean we aren't hanging a 1972 Curtis Mathis full console TV here.:D