Hahaha!

Torx and triple squares both suck. I've replaced every single one on my 944s with a standard Allen (hex) bolt. Those infernal things are the bane of my existence.

I'll have to check those out. I've always used the grey coated square-drive screws for (most) wood, and they've been excellent (especially for flush/countersink applications).

The gold are some kind of ceramic, drive really nice.

Lots of torx on late model porsches..... never understood what they offer beyond other internal bit fasteners...

Cheers

My corolla had one that was half way between 1.5mm and 2mm so I went to the toyota dealer and asked for a bit for it. They said "Sir, you are not meant to undo that part but we can sell you the whole unit $450". Thanks, but no and I hacksawed a slot in it, fixed the part and put allen key screws back in and saved myself $449.

Unlike phillips that require force against the bit to keep it from skipping and eventually stripping out, the torx only require that you keep the bit square to the screw. They also have a self tapping tip that makes them quickly and easily start in wood. They will keep screwing into the wood until your bit no longer makes contact with the head. It's all I use for my projects with the exception of hanging drywall. The only downside is that they tend to be more expensive.

So I look up Bristol Spline (Thought maybe that was the name of an adult movie actress after the above crafty reverse/female star comment).

And I find this page of the different types of drives. Over thirty including conventional ones.

Hex drive | Ask.com Encyclopedia

Maybe best this thread go to PARF.

Bristol Spline "starred" in a number of porn films across from actor Hard Drive.

They could not get Buck Naked -- apparently because of his breakaway head.

+1

I've driven a lot of both. The square drive seem to carry a tighter tolerance/fit between the drive and the screw (compared to the Torx). I found myself having to be much more careful with the torx.

To the OP: not such a good tip. A larger size Torx might work, as long as the jump in size is small, and the hammer is big. Else, you're tying to cold forge quite a bit.

Things to try first: Slotting the head, and using an old fashioned flat blade drive and an impact drive; if it's really far gone. If not, use the same size Torx drive and and the impact driver. (often the base of the socket has grabbable/contact surface)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337024780.jpg

I've never had a problem with Torx bits using an air impact wrench, but you DO have to use a hardened bit, such as a Lisle or Wright. Ace Harware bits will explode.

it was a Lisle that broke on me just a few weeks ago. --weird, I know.

Hmm....try Wright. Just as $$ as Snap on, but worth it.

When I was a young feller, we just had good old 'Murrican nuts and bolts. None of this sissy newfangled stuff. BTW, "torques" is how ya spell it, not "torx." Damned Democrats.

a small impact driver like this is a quantum leap in effectiveness. I use these at work, and they have made their way to the garage as well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337088393.jpg

Hitting it probably loosened the one you stripped.

I actually like torx & 12 points(once I bought the proper bits), and second the recommendation(s) above from Island & Dudley.

These are all helpful tips.

BTW--the one I did it on was quite small. I'm sure the trick becomes less effective as the size increases.