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Torx trick
I wasn't sure where to post this, since my old Porsche does not have Torx fasteners, and I don't know if the new ones do or not. Regardless, people own other cars, and have doubtless run into these evil incarnate fasteners. It seems that every time I try to get one out, it strips. Are these things made of CheezWhiz?
The solution? Take the next bigger size up and tap it into the stripped out hole in the old one. In most cases, the larger size will "bite" into the hole and you'll be able to remove the stripped fastener and put it where it belongs--in the trash. Terry |
I usually have the opposite problem. For some reason I always break the bit.:mad:
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Where are they located? Torx are used rarely.
I've found they usually have a good "bite" compared to the hex head fasteners, and the weakness is usually in the driver bit. The driver bit is usually the first to go, thankfully. Tips: -Always keep it parallel. Always. -Dig the crap out of the head first with an angled pick. Use an inspection mirror and a good light. -Spray with penetrant a day before. And use MAPP/OxcyAclt heat on only the surrounding surface to open the surrounding material. -Tap the bit in with a hammer until it "rings"(metal on metal). This gives the most contact area. |
there used to be a hardware store in van nuys that sold aviation grade allen bolts and such. whenever working on my bike i'd just swap the new bits in. the stripping problems seemed to go away.
am convinced that manufacturers use low bidder **** metal fasteners. |
Jeep seems to be a big fan of Torx fasteners.
In my experience they have held up well. |
I re-decked my equipment trailer last summer, and I had to use self-tapping torx bolts. You drill a hole about 1/16" smaller than the bolt with your largest drill and drive the bolt through it with a 1/2" drive impact wrench. I broke 8 or 9 drill bits, and went through 2 Wright torx bits to install about 300 or so bolts. I thought I was gonna die from that job.
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I didn't think Porsche used Torx, rather 12 point sockets, but this is OT so maybe the OP was not specifically referring to Porsches in which case yes, that is a great solution.
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For rounded nuts and bolts, the Sears "Bolt out" as advertised on TV by Bob Veila work really well. They are sockets with biting edges. They will destroy the bolt or nut but they work. I wish they were around 40 years ago. Another tip, if you use an easy out, use the largest one you can. If you break it, you're screwed as they are hardened. Terry, nice to see you here.
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Torx is 6-point. 12 point usually has a perpendicular outer edge for backup. |
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This was in taking loose a plastic intake manifold with a T40. I was stunned. JohnT has some good tips. Well, I don't agree with his third tip, but the other three are good. |
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Just thought I'd pass along the tip for those who work on "other" cars. Terry |
No torx on my Landy, but a bit of advice from the Series Landy community....... BFH it, but then weld it back together........ Or at least that seems like the most popular method....... I've seen pics where guys got tired of the studs and welded valve covers on......
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Jeep loves torx so much that the top bolt on the bell housing of a 4.0 is a reverse torx or star or whatever it's called. I was thrilled to have to battle the hardest to get to fastener using a crazy bit. 6point bolts with 6point sockets for this man.
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Try torx wood screws, you'll never use Phillips again.
Newer cars have torx everywhere. Treat them exactly like an Allen bolt (clean head, hold bit perpendicular always) and you'll be good to go. |
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George Bush invented torx fasteners! :mad:
Can we move this thread to PARF, now? :p Randy |
Bristol Spline RULES!
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