Coolant (anti-freeze)

[RWebb]

New vehicles have long-life coolant packages, and don't need the coolant flushed out for decades (some say "never," but I am pretty sure they will still need it before my tectonic plate is recycled back down into the magma).

The coolant in my Vanagon is 2 years old & is one of the official VW coolant types (no doubt made by Pentosin). I lost a quart or two yesterday when changing a temperature sensor for the EFI system (I erred in relying on comments from a VW person that very little coolant would come out when I removed the sensor, and it took me a minute to deploy a catch basin).

You can buy test strips for coolant and there are places here that will test the coolant for free (using those strips). Does anybody know what those strips really test? And how accurate they are?

I'm not so worried about freezing point protection as I am about:
1. corrosion protection (on this Al alloy engine)
2. cavitation
3. foaming
4. lime formation

My thought is to add Subaru coolant conditioner and some distilled water to get the levels back where they should be, and to defer a coolant flush for a couple of years, esp. since there are so few miles put on this vehicle every year (often < 1,000 miles/year).

Thoughts?

[944Larry]

Caterpillar says the stuff wears out and has a test kit and a replenishment bottle to bring it back up to strength. I assume the strips are for testing the PH. All you probably need is topping off as you said.

[RWebb]

the test strips claim to test 3 or 4 different things including "reserve alkalinity" which I'd assume is buffering capacity

[GWN7]

Blue, Pink or Purple?

Important Vw Coolant Reminders

As an independent Audi Vw service garage with over 23 years of hands-on experience, we know what fails on Vws and why. We feel that changing your fluids is one of the most important preventive maintenance routines. Yet, for many Vw owners, this seems to be one of the most neglected area of maintenance. Thoroughly flushing your fluids at the proper intervals can help your Vw reach 150,000 miles and beyond!

#1 Vw Coolant Change Intervals

Blauparts™ recommends changing 'long life' Vw coolant every 3 to 4 years. Why? The combination of chemical additives contained in coolant, responsible for retaining alkalinity and inhibiting corrosion within the engine's cooling system, over time become depleted. Similar to oil, Vw coolant eventually breaks down, becomes weak, and "gets dirty." For maximum corrosion protection and prolonged engine life, flushing Vw coolant every 3 to 4 years (40,000 – 50,000 miles) is imperative. Thoroughly flushing your Vw's coolant is most convenient when done during timing belt replacement.

#2 What Type Of Vw Coolant

Use ONLY Audi Vw G11, or G12 approved anti-phosphate, anti-amine, anti-phosphorous coolant! Do NOT use regular store bought coolant, which typically contains ethylene glycol and doesn't correspond with the specifications of a Vw cooling system. The specification or type of Vw coolant required for a particular model can be found stamped on the expansion tank (e.g. G11 or G12) as well as in the owners manual under the coolant section. It's also good to note the color of your coolant (e.g. pink or purple). See Vw Coolant Features section below for further Vw coolant information and specifications.

What happens if you don't use correct approved Vw coolant?
Inferior coolant has an adverse reaction within a Vw cooling system. Poor quality coolant contaminates the system and eats away at metal, rubber, and plastic components. Obvious external indicators are bulging coolant hoses and white calcified residue oozing from coolant hose clamp mating areas (See Image 2). Not so obvious is lime and scale deposits that begin to build-up in the radiator core, restricting coolant flow and causing the engine to run hotter (especially in summer and warmer climates). All of this eventually causes serious engine problems (i.e. water pump failure - See Image 1). If your coolant is green or brown in color, thoroughly flush your cooling system immediately! You'll notice similar warnings in your owners manual under the coolant section.

#3 Vw Coolant Concentration

Remember to check the concentration (pH) of your Vw coolant on a regular basis. It's especially important to maintain the correct Vw coolant concentration during winter to protect your system against freezing temperatures. If your coolant concentration is weak, change it. Over time, weak or contaminated coolant (incorrect pH) can cause serious engine problems (i.e. water pump failure, as mentioned above). It's also important to note that approved Vw coolant comes in concentrated form. You MUST dilute the coolant using DISTILLED water to a 50/50 concentration. DO NOT mix normal tap water with coolant. Tap water varies in pH, mineral, and chemical content and can adversely affect your new coolant and cooling system.

[widebody911]

I think "lifetime" fluids are a gimmick to artificially lower the cost-of-ownership and maintenance numbers for marketing purposes.

[GH85Carrera]

The anti-freeze in my Carrera has never been changed! If it ever gets so cold the my coolant freezes I will have bigger problems to worry about.

On my El Camino I change the anti-freeze every other year.

I suspect lifetime coolant is just like lifetime transmission oil. Just a sales gimmick to make the maintenance cost look good to the first time buyer.

A friend of mine had a Ford that had over 100.000 miles on it when he decided maybe it was time for new spark plugs. They were pretty much welded into place.

[Mark Henry]

Why not just top it up with the correct fluid?
Pentosin G12 is under $20 for 1.5L.

[RWebb]

GWN7 - I have never figured out the right color for my 1986 Vanagon - often posts on the Samba seem written while the poster was stoned...

Pentosin G12 is "red pink" -- Mark, you are sure that is the right one for an '86 Vanagon? One web site says it is "Used in Vw models 6/1996-2003" then was superceded by purple...

[Mark Henry]

Sorry, you're right older VW's take g11.
If you're unsure on when it was changed last or what type of coolant was used, change it all. If it's only a few years old replace what you lost.

It's been a while since I last worked on a vanagon (I've worked a lot on newer VW's), but most VW's you have to burp the system, not just add the coolant to the reservoir.
I undo the connection at the highest point of the upper hose and fill the hose till a bit pours out. Then I take the the reservoir tank hose off and use a small funnel to top up the last bit. Then I put the reservoir hose back on and set the tank level. I can't remember if the vanagon had any special procedure beyond that, so you should check a workshop manual.
Check your level frequently on the first few outings.

[fanaudical]

RWebb - I'm guessing you know this, but Discount Import Parts in Beaverton and Portland almost has G11 (and others) on the shelf at reasonable prices.