Painting luan for excellent finish: How to?

[Shaun @ Tru6]

I'm building a new trade show booth using luan and 1x2 framing. I'm most likely liquid nailing and stapling the luan to the framing and adding some corner and cross bracing.

I need a nice flat surface to paint. Any ideas on:

what to fill any imperfections and staple indentations with?

what saw blade for cutting luan?

proper primer and paint? Need a very low gloss paint.

Get a Wagner power painter or roller and block sand and buff?

I'd love to cover each panel with a plastic countertop type material, but can't seem to find what I'm thinking of.

Here's a foam core and photography paper version of the booth. Will be duplicating but in a 6x16 format (10x13 here)

[craigster59]

In the studios we just cover with a skim coat of drywall mud. If you're thinking of covering in a laminate try Formica or Wilsonart. Another place we use is Astek wallcoverings. I'll see if I can get a link.

here we go. They should have something that will work for you. http://astekwallcovering.com/about

[Zeke]

For painting, why luan? Birch would be way better.

Lay flat and roll the primer on taking care to fully cover all the surface. Get the paint on and leave it alone as quickly as possible to allow it to level out. Same with the paint. Use a short nap roller and a fuller roller. Put the paint on with the bigger one and knock the texture down with the short nap. Do this inside of a minute with no breeze..

Here's a tip on how to make paint lay down: when stirring notice how the paint makes lines on the surface when you pull the stir stick out and let the paint run off onto the surface. Swirl the stick around and make circles. If you can see more than one circle, your paint is too thick. Thin with 5% water and try again. You don't want the circles to not be there at all either. Too thin.
Only thin half a can at a time in case you get too thin.

[HardDrive]

Wouldn't Birch be a lot more $$$?

I know your not going to want to hear this, but I question the idea of using liquid nails and staples to hold this thing together. If you have a drill, you can put some 3/4" screws in that will give you a better structure.

what to fill any imperfections and staple indentations with?
Wood putty.

what saw blade for cutting luan?
Fine blade in a circular saw

proper primer and paint? Need a very low gloss paint.
I would prime with standard Killz. 2 coats. The wood is going to soak up the first coat, so don't be shy with the primer. Let the first coat dry really well, knock down any big nasty rough stuff with sanding block, then another thin coat. Final coat with a flat latex.

Get a Wagner power painter or roller and block sand and buff?
I would roll it. Your not really talking about much surface area. A Wagner power painter is going to cost you more time fiddling around getting it to work. When priming, after the first coat, take the roller and put it in a plastic shopping bag, then roll the bag tightly around it. When you are done priming, pitch that roller and move on to paint.

I'd love to cover each panel with a plastic countertop type material, but can't seem to find what I'm thinking of.
Are you REALLY sure you want to use Luan? Go to a proper lumber shop and see what they carry in plastic coated masonite board. This would be in the 'paneling' section. Lots of options there, including products with a very flat, paint ready coating. You can get Formica at Home Depot/Lowes, but do you really want to go that route? Added weight, and frankly, I think it would look chintzy. A flat color would be better.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Thanks Guys for all the good suggestions and advice.

Craig, will check out Astek. I need a simple light grey laminate.

Milt and Josh, I'm using luan because it's cheap, lightweight and somewhat disposable if this doesn't work out the way I hope.

Both, good advice on painting. If I could find a basic light grey laminate, I'd go there.

josh, I looked at masonite but it's heavy. Yes, the surface is excellent though. wonder if I would have to scuff it for paint to stick even.

Hoping to get test materials this weekend. Show set-up is August 3 and 4. Need to make sure the paint is long done drying before going to the show.

more to come.

[MBAtarga]

Regardless of using luan, masonite or other wood product, cut the pieces to size from the back side if you are using a circular saw. This will minimize tearout.

I've been using my Wagner power roller for the past 3 weeks - painting rooms in the house were moving into. I've gone through about 15 gallons so far. If you're using only 1 paint color - it's a perfect product to use, as you won't have to do any cleaning cycles as required for color changes.

[David McLaughlin]

I'd go with the 1/8" MDF for the smoothest surface. It paints well with no prep (except for the edges which require sanding between primer coats). As stated above, birtch ply is also smoother than luan and only a few buchs more. Again the edges if shown need more prep for the smoothest surface. For paint, I spray a high build primer, sand well with fine paper on a DA or palm sander and spray on color. If you roll it on, add a flow additive to the paint. Give me a shout if you have any questions. Between my painting experience at Lexington Studios and my wife working for Lowe's, I'm sure I could help.

[mudman]

What about using cotton material or whatever you have or can get cheap in the right color/texture? Using a little spray adhesive and stapling the edges would make the panels serviceable and you could change out the fabric when it gets dirty/worn or for a color change/booth makeover.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

That is a good idea and we've done that in the past, using our t-shirt fabric stretched across the show booth walls. Here it would work fairly well too and is an option.We do have to drill holes in the wall for mounting pegs and also attach the peninsulas, so stretched fabric could become an issue.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by David McLaughlin

I'd go with the 1/8" MDF for the smoothest surface. It paints well with no prep (except for the edges which require sanding between primer coats). As stated above, birtch ply is also smoother than luan and only a few buchs more. Again the edges if shown need more prep for the smoothest surface. For paint, I spray a high build primer, sand well with fine paper on a DA or palm sander and spray on color. If you roll it on, add a flow additive to the paint. Give me a shout if you have any questions. Between my painting experience at Lexington Studios and my wife working for Lowe's, I'm sure I could help.

Will send an email today David, thank you.

[herr_oberst]

Sticky vinyl in the color you want? Check with sign shops.

[Zeke]

My pro paint store will not stock or sell Kilz products. They are tired of hearing the complaints. Just sayin.'

Personally, I've only had big time problems with the original oil formula. Everything that was used on failed within a few months. It's OK over knots in pine, etc. I don't use the water based stuff either. For the money, there is much better material to be had like Glidden's Gripper.
YMMV

[porsche4life]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

Sticky vinyl in the color you want? Check with sign shops.

Actually not a bad idea... Smooth, fairly tough, way easy to fix.... Would cover any holes, or imperfections in your assembly too...


Automotive wrap vinyl is a bit more $$$ but is easier to work with, and tougher as well... So call a wrap shop in your area and see what they've got.

Shaun, feel free to hit me up with any vinyl questions... I've been around it for a few years...

Oh ya, you need a big digital display in that booth too...

[Shaun @ Tru6]

I like the vinyl idea and used it for inspiration on the course of action with materials. This is something of a test booth and time is short.

I'll do 7, 39 inch panels of hardboard for the 6x16 backdrop. I'm just going to cover it with photography paper at the show. easy with the benefit of being seamless. don't need to worry about surface prep, at all.

The islands I'm going to use 1/4 inch oak plywood on the verticals and stain them blonde. They could look really good, a little chic. Light blonde over light grey just might work. The top horizontal bridges I'll probably paint grey or spraytack some paper on them. Wish I had more time, and skill, to build this thing.

thoughts on the light wood verticals? it will be unique without being odd. that's the goal. I won't have photography for the show, Spring 13 samples are arriving just in time as it is.

[porsche4life]

Another thought on the vinyl... You could have them do some sort of print on it... Logos, etc....

[john70t]

Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa

Here it would work fairly well too and is an option.We do have to drill holes in the wall for mounting pegs and also attach the peninsulas, so stretched fabric could become an issue.

FYI- luan board will begin warping as soon as it's not stored flat under weight. Heck, most lumber does that these days.
It also won't hold a screw or any weight.
1/8" plywood or a laminate sounds better.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

thanks John. For anything structural, like hanging clothing on the walls or the hanger bars in the islands, I'll have 2x4s stapled/screwed into the hardboard and plywood. I the hardboard is going to be one time use only but will get me through this show.

[David McLaughlin]

Shaun, lost your email do to a nook tablet glitch. I shopped around up near me and could not find any of the MDF we talked about in anything larger than 2 foot by 4 foot sheets. Sounds like you're on the right track though.

[Icemaster]

Did something like this years ago when we set up a new store. Used MDF and a good urethane paint. It was a two part epoxy that self leveled after being rolled on. The MDF won't tear at the cuts like luan or birch. Either way, use a fine tooth blade, good quality panel blade with a high tooth count. Don't go cheap on that. If you do use birch or luan, like someone else suggested, you want the blades teeth to impact the display side ('finished or show side') of the material first. Tear out will happen on the back side.

I wouldn't use luan for anything other than filler or underlayment. Is cheap for a reason.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Thanks Pete, I'm going to start building tonight. we'll see how it goes.