Another hardwood floor question

scottmandue · 09-25-2012, 09:18 AM

Yes, hardwood floors have been discussed here before but I have a quick specific question.

We have pets so carpet is not working for us.

I want to DIY hardwood floors to save money.

Lots of different types of hardwood floor out there, can any of them withstand pet barf/poo/pee? Even if it happens while we are at work and sits for hours before cleanup?

This is a second floor with plywood sub-floor.

Thanks in advance,

look 171 · 09-25-2012, 09:27 AM

Not really. Eventually the pee will be absorbed into the fibers of the wood, and it will be stain forever. Pergo type floors are cheap, DIY friendly and they wear well. WHen you are done with it, rip it out and start all over again. A DIY wood floor will cost you twice as much as the the plastic floor. No wood based type flooring deal with standing liquid well

Jim Richards · 09-25-2012, 09:30 AM

How 'bout cork? Or go non-wood with Marmoleum?

KNS · 09-25-2012, 09:34 AM

Years ago I installed 3/4 inch oak strip hardwood floors and finished with three coats of Varithane (I think that was the name of it). While I didn't have pets at the time if I spilled something on it and it got it cleaned up fairly quick I never had a problem.

After I finished (and all the blood sweat and tears that went into it) I could never install a laminate type floor, there is no comparison. Do it right and it will out live you.

look 171 · 09-25-2012, 09:36 AM

Cork has these little holes to trap pee or barf in there. I hate to say it, but some type of Vinyl would help. If the house modern? How about a paint on epoxy for garage? Some of those solid colors may work and I think it will work out real well? Just a thought.

scottmandue · 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Richards

How 'bout cork? Or go non-wood with Marmoleum?

Sub-floor is rough plywood, doesn't that need a flat smooth surface? Is Marmoleum the same a linoleum (considering that)?

Agreed that real solid wood is the best, but don't have the time or money for that... tile would be even better... but this needs to be fast and cheap.

Thanks again!

look 171 · 09-25-2012, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KNS

Years ago I installed 3/4 inch oak strip hardwood floors and finished with three coats of Varithane (I think that was the name of it). While I didn't have pets at the time if I spilled something on it and it got it cleaned up fairly quick I never had a problem.

After I finished (and all the blood sweat and tears that went into it) I could never install a laminate type floor, there is no comparison. Do it right and it will out live you.

If you allow dog poo and pee sit on there, it will be destroy in half an hour.

KNS · 09-25-2012, 09:43 AM

Well, perhaps that rules out any kind of wood floor...

scottmandue · 09-25-2012, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KNS

Well, perhaps that rules out any kind of wood floor...

Maybe do hardwood only in living room and vinyl in the bedrooms?

Red88Carrera · 09-25-2012, 04:01 PM

Why not hardwood everything and keep the pets in the garage for the day?

look 171 · 09-25-2012, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmandue

Sub-floor is rough plywood, doesn't that need a flat smooth surface? Is Marmoleum the same a linoleum (considering that)?

Agreed that real solid wood is the best, but don't have the time or money for that... tile would be even better... but this needs to be fast and cheap.

Thanks again!

You can get a tile floor for about the same price. The only difference is in the installation. Since you are doing the install, the labor part will be a wash. The real cost difference is the Wonder or Hardibacker boards.

LWJ · 09-25-2012, 06:37 PM

Yes. Waterlox. I have it. It really is impervious to water borne spills. As with anything, there are plusses and minuses.

Good luck. I have DIYed several floors. It is cheap and rewarding.

Larry

07:28 AM

About 20 years ago in my last house I did a 15x25 foot 3/4 inch red oak hardwood floor with a 3/4 inch walnut accent strip, then a window pane border. I did the sanding, then had someone else put on the most evil, toxic Swedish finish I could every five years. Held up to 14 years of dogs and kids, though the sun started to fade the walnut accent strip over time. It would darken back up when refinished. I still sneak by the house now and again to make sure the new owners have not carpted it over. Still looks great.

Well worth the artificial knee I now have!

scottmandue · 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

You can get a tile floor for about the same price. The only difference is in the installation. Since you are doing the install, the labor part will be a wash. The real cost difference is the Wonder or Hardibacker boards.

Yes, I know... Tiled my own bathroom and kitchen (ten years ago)... but I have to drag everything up to the second story (tile, grout, hardibacker)... and tile install is a three day install at best, prep floor, lay tile, grout, sealer... wait, that is four days.
Too much labor for these old bones.

Surprised linoleum costs as much or more as wood or tile.

09-26-2012, 07:29 AM

Avoid anything manufactured. Water will kill it instantly. And prr-fininished is for wussies.

scottmandue · 07:59 AM

I want super low maintenance... sanding and re-varnishing is a no go... if I wanted to do that I would buy a boat!

Vinyl is looking better all the time... and with the new tech unless you get down on your hands and knees it looks like wood/stone/tile.

Just wondered if there was a wood floor with a waterproof plastic seal... wood looks to be the easiest DIY install.

Mark Henry · 09-26-2012, 08:22 AM

We have a dog (with long nails), a cat, plus two spill crazy kids and the click wood look lamanate floors work perfect for us. We even have it in the kitchen the fridge sprung a major leak last year, spills...you name it.

We've had it 4-5 years now and it wears like iron. We bought the better German made laminate when it was on sale and I installed it myself.

gr8fl4porsche · gr8fl4porsche's Garage

There are some great looking laminates that claim to be fully sealed. Fully sealed meaning all sides of the board, top-bottom-tongue -groove. Any cut pieces will need to be touched up prior to install.

This type of sealing will do better than a field finished wood floor as only the top is sealed.
If water is left long enough on a real wood floor, eventually it will soak in through the cracks.

Laminates contain a natural wood layer on top with the rest of the layers a type of plywood.
Very stable, straight and strong with an excellent factory finish. Price is appropriate for what you are getting. Many have a micro bevel edge which gives them a prefinished appearance - try to avoid them. Without the bevel, the floor prep has to be near perfect.

To test any product you are considering, drop it in a bucket of water for a week and see what happens.

In regards to vinyl, it is very popular. I put vinyl wood-look planks down in my mud room and absolutely love it. Excellent durability and scratch resistance so far - been about 2 years. Fooling someone into believing it is real wood is a stretch. Real wood looks like wood because every board is different with unique flaws and character.

09-26-2012, 09:01 AM

One of my companies does emergency water response. Laminates--any laminates-- that get flooded (dishwasher, refrigerator line, etc--happens all the time) turn to mush.

scottmandue · 09-26-2012, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Henry

We have a dog (with long nails), a cat, plus two spill crazy kids and the click wood look lamanate floors work perfect for us. We even have it in the kitchen the fridge sprung a major leak last year, spills...you name it.

We've had it 4-5 years now and it wears like iron. We bought the better German made laminate when it was on sale and I installed it myself.

Can you get me a brand name please? Is that boards or tiles?

Sounds perfect, Thanks!