Shaving down a Drawer
 

I have a drawer (already made up) that I would like to fit into an opening that is just about 1 mm too low for it.

So, I want to shave the height of the drawer down by about 1/8" -- I have a router and a router table, but have no other woodworking machines, no table saw, bandsaw, no nuttin'

What is the best way to do this while minimizing damage or ugliness to the drawer?

carefully-

I'd get a cheap planer at home depot, lowes, etc. and use that on the top of the drawer

Hand plane. I've got a nice block plane I can send you if you like, but you may know someone local with one.

Thx but I have a hand plane -- it seems like a less accurate (flat) way to do it and more work (?)

A plane is a very accurate way to bring a board to the right size. You can take off a few thou at a time, you'll get your 1/8" in no time.

Make sure the sole is smooth and clean and the blade is razor sharp. Fluffy curls should come out if it's set up right. Go "downhill" with respect to the grain, you don't want to dig into the grain and raise a splinter.

Once you get in your rhythm, it can be therapeutic. You'll find other things to plane.

A router and router table, if that's what you have.

Make the opening 1/8" bigger.... ;)

Or block the drawer level so you can use the router table to take off 1/8"

ok, but my question relates to how I support the drawer so it doesn't fall down as I cut away the ends & sides on the router table

ideas?

noooo

Setting up the router table maybe more time and trouble then its worth. Do you have a straight cutting bit? To buy it, its 15-20 bucks. If you have to ask how its done on a router table, then it might be a bit dangerous for you. You will need a fence for this. Take it to a cabinet shop and ask to have it trim down. it should take no more then 2 minutes. THat includes setting up the fence.

Put something inside the upside-down drawer. That way the drawer won't ride on the table, the object inside will. You can adjust the bit height as needed to achieve 1/8" cut. No fence needed either.

i suppose this will need a straight or flush trim bit? That will pull the stock into the router throwing it across the room.

You'd be using the router like an endmill. No reason that the bit would grab the workpiece.

Most router accidents happen when the work piece is grabbed by a router(bringing the operator's hand with it) without a starting pin. Keep in mind that the router is spinning at 20,000 + RPM. An endmill is, maybe 1000rpm? Big difference.

Here a quick sketch of the idea. I agree, if you're afraid of the tool, or don't respect its power, don't use it. I've probably routed miles of profiles, and never once came close to an accident. You need to secure the workpiece.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348621527.jpg

Safer if you set up a fence and cut off the top of the drawer with a straight trim bit. Another word, run the drawer between the fence and the cutter. The chance for a kick back is reduced greatly. very little tear out.

Have you considered making the opening bigger?

JR

I vote block plane. I have a number of these and they are one of my favorite tools.

Other options would be a simple orbital or belt sander. I would prefer orbital even though it is slow. The results would be better.

The router is a lot of power and opportunities for error - including your hand. If you just have a router table, I will assume it is a smallish one. Even less safe.

Go slow. Go careful. Be clever about this not impatient and you might save your drawer and your hand.

Good luck.
Larry

posting a pic would help.

I don't suppose the front (drawerface) comes off?

A red88 said, put a box or something square in the upside-down drawer, so it sits level.

But frankly, that is something I probably wouldn't do, too shakey of a setup.

You could also set the fence (expendable piece of wood, with 1/8" of the routerbit sticking out), and rout off as much as it can reach(three sides), and finish it off with a handsaw or sander, etc. (cutting with the side of the bit, not top)