Shaving down a Drawer
 

I have a drawer (already made up) that I would like to fit into an opening that is just about 1 mm too low for it.

So, I want to shave the height of the drawer down by about 1/8" -- I have a router and a router table, but have no other woodworking machines, no table saw, bandsaw, no nuttin'

What is the best way to do this while minimizing damage or ugliness to the drawer?

carefully-

I'd get a cheap planer at home depot, lowes, etc. and use that on the top of the drawer

Hand plane. I've got a nice block plane I can send you if you like, but you may know someone local with one.

Thx but I have a hand plane -- it seems like a less accurate (flat) way to do it and more work (?)

A plane is a very accurate way to bring a board to the right size. You can take off a few thou at a time, you'll get your 1/8" in no time.

Make sure the sole is smooth and clean and the blade is razor sharp. Fluffy curls should come out if it's set up right. Go "downhill" with respect to the grain, you don't want to dig into the grain and raise a splinter.

Once you get in your rhythm, it can be therapeutic. You'll find other things to plane.

A router and router table, if that's what you have.

Make the opening 1/8" bigger.... ;)

Or block the drawer level so you can use the router table to take off 1/8"

ok, but my question relates to how I support the drawer so it doesn't fall down as I cut away the ends & sides on the router table

ideas?

noooo

Setting up the router table maybe more time and trouble then its worth. Do you have a straight cutting bit? To buy it, its 15-20 bucks. If you have to ask how its done on a router table, then it might be a bit dangerous for you. You will need a fence for this. Take it to a cabinet shop and ask to have it trim down. it should take no more then 2 minutes. THat includes setting up the fence.

Put something inside the upside-down drawer. That way the drawer won't ride on the table, the object inside will. You can adjust the bit height as needed to achieve 1/8" cut. No fence needed either.

i suppose this will need a straight or flush trim bit? That will pull the stock into the router throwing it across the room.

You'd be using the router like an endmill. No reason that the bit would grab the workpiece.

Most router accidents happen when the work piece is grabbed by a router(bringing the operator's hand with it) without a starting pin. Keep in mind that the router is spinning at 20,000 + RPM. An endmill is, maybe 1000rpm? Big difference.

Here a quick sketch of the idea. I agree, if you're afraid of the tool, or don't respect its power, don't use it. I've probably routed miles of profiles, and never once came close to an accident. You need to secure the workpiece.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348621527.jpg

Safer if you set up a fence and cut off the top of the drawer with a straight trim bit. Another word, run the drawer between the fence and the cutter. The chance for a kick back is reduced greatly. very little tear out.

Have you considered making the opening bigger?

JR

I vote block plane. I have a number of these and they are one of my favorite tools.

Other options would be a simple orbital or belt sander. I would prefer orbital even though it is slow. The results would be better.

The router is a lot of power and opportunities for error - including your hand. If you just have a router table, I will assume it is a smallish one. Even less safe.

Go slow. Go careful. Be clever about this not impatient and you might save your drawer and your hand.

Good luck.
Larry

posting a pic would help.

I don't suppose the front (drawerface) comes off?

A red88 said, put a box or something square in the upside-down drawer, so it sits level.

But frankly, that is something I probably wouldn't do, too shakey of a setup.

You could also set the fence (expendable piece of wood, with 1/8" of the routerbit sticking out), and rout off as much as it can reach(three sides), and finish it off with a handsaw or sander, etc. (cutting with the side of the bit, not top)

Like this:
http://www.provenwoodworking.com/ima...ence-front.jpg

Not really sure why you'd want to shave in your drawers anyway. Kinda metro isn't it?

the openings are set - by the drawer stack on either side

there is no face - nothing comes off

table is about 3 ft. across - I do intend to use a fence

once I've cut off one side, I still have 3 sides to go -- do you like the idea of putting something inside the drawer to hold it at a set ht., as per a post above?

maybe I can push clamp 2x4's in there?

The real issue is your drawer front because it sticks out on all four sides(?). Not flush with the drawer box, right? Get me a pic (of the drawer box) will ya

If you do it that way, you need to have an off set on the fence to support the cut away material on the outfeed side of the fence. Or else, it will rock and create an uneven cut. A small shaving will be ok that way, anything larger then a 1/16" will be affected.

Open the fence and set the distance between the edge of the router's cutting edge and the fence to a specific dimension, and run the drawer box on edge through it, it will come out exactly on all four sides each and every time.

ok, here is the drawer - it's just a dovetailed box - I want to shave 1/8" off the 4 edges facing the camera



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1348688752.jpg

Not too big a challenge. Buy more tools!!

He could skip a 1/8-1/4" which would leave the offset, then remove that with the chisel/sander.

That router with a fence setup is nice.

a belt grinder?
3 in.x 18 in.Portable Belt Sander-BE318-2 at The Home Depot

Yeah, but where do you stop, 3/4 the way and do the rest by hand? The trick here is to have accurate straight cuts. Hand tools wouldn't really cut it here unless you are really good with them.

A belt sander will work, but you really have to have lots of experience with them to get the top dead nuts at 90 degree. 1/4" will take sometime.

I still say have a visit your local cabinet shop. it will take me less then one minute on the table saw. Like I said, this should include set up time. How much is your time with, or your skin if you got hurt?

use a table saw with a good blade and fence; place the bottom of the drawer against the fence and cut just better than a blade's with off the top.

The correct way to do this is to hire a general contractor to manage the project. He will be able to find a suitable subcontractor to make the cabinet opening 1/8" larger, and also cut down the drawer by 1/8".

After you discover that the opening is too large, and that the whole project is a botched mess because the cuts were be made using improper technique and tools, you can then ask the Pelican trust about attorneys, liability limits, etc.

^^^^^^^
If they aren't busy , you'll be outa there in no time..Done right too..

Go buy a small trim rotary saw along with a fine toothed blade. Some come with an adjustable sliding fence. Make sure you tape the faces of the drawer sides so that you don't scratch. This can be easily done with a hand power tool or block plane.

Heck, in the time spent reading about all the suggestions I could have nearly had it planed down already.

Bring it to PDX the next time you have business here, and we'll use my table saw.

thx - I have to admit I have not been up to PDX in a few years

a cabinet-maker here would charge me $80 for his table saw cut - this place is full of artists, ya know...

I think I will have a shot at the sideways router table method -- I've used the router off & on for 12 years at least now...

this doesn't seem more dangerous than other router operations -- or does it??

For <$80 you can buy an adequate bench style table saw and have for the next time(s) you need one.

Table Saws at Harbor Freight Tools

$80? You can almost buy a new drawer for that much.

What the total height of the drawer? Set the distance between the cutter and the fence and run it through. Make sure you feed against the rotation of the bit, if not it WILL get you. it should be safe and not too hard to do.