Hugh,

Went through this last year, thought I could do it myself and read smeo forums and decided to call a guy in. He was done in 15 minutes and I could tell how much "power" was loaded in that spring. For myself and my family I made the right choice just to call a pro.

Bob

I replace torsion springs on my rental properties on a regular basis. I use two 18" sticks of rebar rod with last 1 1/2" ground to a slightly smaller diameter. One person uses the two sticks to tighten the spring. A second person tightens the set screw. It is not hard. It just takes patience and care. I would never do this job by myself, though.

Jurgen

Hugh,
I would not recommend attempting this job as a DIY project. The springs have an incredible amount of tension on them (i.e. a good way to a serious injury). To remove the spring you have to unwind the unbroken one and remove both cable drums. If the cable drums are not reset properly the door will now be crooked in the tracks. Also if you just buy a replacement for the broken spring, the unbroken one may break while it is being rewound. I always suggest to customers that they replace both springs at the same time, unless the other has been replaced within a couple of years.

This job is best left to a professional as the spring tension equals the doors weight. It can be done in under an hour by a competent door repairman. That is both springs, check of the door operation, and a lube.

P.S. I know lots of professionals who have been badly injured by springs, so I would not risk your career on saving a few bucks and winding up permanently mangled.

I've done this on trailer and garage doors, and several times have nearly crushed my fingers or had a rod spun into the face.
Not a recommended or safe DIY.

I'm surprised to read so many DIY guys so concerned about this task. I guess since I live on an island, the costs of getting a pro do do this job would be probably more in the range of $750 ( which creates an incentive to DIY). I've had to do it on a couple of homes and it's a job that if you take your time and are prepared, it's no big deal. Don't get me wrong most of the time if a new door is going in, the vendor will offer a good installation price and I'm happy to off load the task. Probably if it was available to me for $120, I might think about it. Cheers

You might want to walk one aisle over at Home Depot and buy the rod whose diameter fits in the holes in the spring cone.

$120 would not get it done here. That would be about the service call fee, now add parts and labor.

This is a very, very easy job for an even remotely skilled DIY'er.

Should your average Joe, who has never changed his own oil or done any DIY past replacing a light bulb do it?

No, probably not.

But we are on a car enthusiasts forum, and most of us here are experienced in automotive and other DIY.

The key is to be able to follow very basic directions, and have a couple of basic proper tools. You also need to have a basic understanding of how the spring system functions, but that's not complicated. There are a ton of instructional videos on Youtube, as well as webpages. For the tools, the only thing you really need are PROPERLY sized turning bars. They just need to fix well in the turning cones, and be near the right length.

You'll see that the springs are under tension, of course, but it doesn't take a lot of strength to turn them. They also lose tension very quickly, after not many turns.

The process of winding and unwinding the springs is the only part of the process that has any danger, but it's really a matter of just having the right fit and being careful. You will be turning the cones using two bars at the same time (obviously, one to hold tension, the other to turn it more). The danger is that one of the bars slips out of the cone (or less likely, out of your hand). The spring can then turn, and with the other bar still in it will turn very quickly and forcefully, if it whacks any part of your body, yeah, that's not going to be good.

Adjusting the cables is very easy, pretty much foolproof for any decent DIYer.

Automotive jobs, IMO, are far, far more dangerous and complicated. I think jacking up, stablizing and working under a car is more dangerous. Replacing coil springs is more dangerous. As far as technically complicated, I'd rate this about the same level as replacing brake pads.

That's my opinion after having done many of these over the past 20 years.

A friend broke his arm attempting this.

I think a key question that hasn't been asked is: Is the Porsche 'in' the garage or 'out'?
If 'in' and you can't get the door open, I'd call a pro.
If 'out' and there's no other cars 'in' then I'd do it with a friend. I've done it with a friend when his door had a cable problem. If you're cognizant of the dangers involved and take the necessary precautions it's not that hard. Being aware of the danger is half the battle. Doing it safely isn't that difficult, but I recommend you do it with someone else helping.

Almost 300,000 are injured taking a bath or using the toilet each year.

300 people DIE every year trying to take a bath in the US alone.

Really? What would that second person do?

This actually seems uniquely like a one person job.

You certainly DON'T want two people doing the winding or unwinding of the springs. That would be a recipe for disaster.

I've done it myself........Use the two rods as mentioned above and take your time.......I was younger and poorer when I did it, probably hire it out now. Depends on the cost and your budget.

Hold your beer :D. With Hugh's background and using the proper technique, I just don't see a problem (other than the beer)...

I was able to hand the bars to my friend as he removed them and repositioned them while unwinding the spring. Unless you're practiced at it, it can become a little awkward keeping tension on one bar while moving the other to the next hole on the wheel.
Having moved billion dollar satellites together as part of a team it wasn't hard to do this job as well.

I did it myself, just watched the video from the online spring seller. I didn't think it was particularly dangerous until I read all the stuff on here.

You can buy the bars of the correct diameter at Lowe's or Home Depot, wrap the ends in tape so they fit snugly. The instructions tell you how many turns to go.

I think if you can rebuild an Aston motor you can probably handle garage door springs.

We have an HOA with a privacy gate. I think I'll call the guy that services it to do the job. Besides, at the moment, I don't really have anyone that I can get me to assist in this. Thanks for the input.

That is a spring for the install it yourself door. If you have those it is a do it yourself project because the service companies don't stock parts for those.

You do not need assistance to do this and the only tip I have is to use a large pipe wrench to get the springs off the cones.

I have done lots. Replacements, adjusting, etc. I can't believe how many people here are saying 'don't do it'. Get a proper pry bar and position your body to hold the load, it's not a huge force on the end of an 18" bar.

I know someone who died in a car crash. I still drive to work every day. I wear my seat belt and take appropriate precautions.

It's not rocket science. And, IMO, it's not more dangerous than working under a car.

I handle the winding. My partner tightens the set screw. It can also be helpful to have two working the torsion bar while sliding the broken spring off and on. Also, if the lifting cables come off the reel, it's good to have a pair of hands on either end of he torsion bar. You don't NEED two people, but it's definitely better.

rickl, there's what...100 lbs of force on a bar when tightening the torsion spring? If a 1/2" rebar rod bends or breaks, I've got big problems. Done dozens of springs with the same homemade bars. I really don't see the need to fix what ain't broken. That said, buying new, yeah, I might spring for the rolled steel at Home Cheapo, but if I have rebar laying around, I wouldn't hesitate to use it.

I doubt it is 100 lbf maybe 50 at the end of an 18" rod?

The only person I know that damaged anything was using socket extensions that fit in the holes to tighten the spring.