Need help with a car alarm

[KaptKaos]

I bought a used Suburban last weekend.

It has a car alarm that has locked up and now can't start it.

I disconnected the battery and waited about 5 minutes, still no joy.

I am looking for a car alarm guy to come out to the house and un-install the alarm. I think they're worthless anyway. Looking for a referral near LAX.

TIA

[RANDY P]

Find the brain and unplug. If it's like any alarm the relay that energizes the starter disable gets it's signal from the brain.

Once the brain is unplugged the vehicle should start. It's just a simple standard 5 prong relay.

Do you know what brand it is?

rjp

[RANDY P]

PS if you can't see the brain, unplug battery from car, then re-attach with the key in the ON position (as if the truck is running)

Older Clifford perhaps.

[KaptKaos]

No idea what brand it is. Called the PO, he said it came that way from the dealer, so who knows????

I can hear the relay clicking as soon as I open the door. The siren was previously disabled.

There is a valet button, that had been working, but isn't any longer.

I will try that trick with the key.

I believe that the brain is under the dash, but it's not clear where it is.

Thanks for your advice!

[onewhippedpuppy]

I had one that came in my 240SX many years ago, it eventually went on the fritz and disabled the starter. I had to find the brain then trace every wire in the alarm harness to the tap or splice in the factory harness, then remove it and restore the factory wiring. What a PITA. One of the first things that I did with my 911 was to hack out the old Alpine alarm system.

[RANDY P]

The starter disable is a simply a relay designed to interrupt the starter.

They cut the crank wire off the keyswitch and so power to starter is interrupted when alarm is on. Done by standard relay

In reality, a car alarm just interfaces with the battery for constant power, the keyswitch (only has power when car is running) so it knows it's being driven, (usually) one wire to know the doors are open, and two wires for hood and trunk, assuming they are installed. 3 wires minimum for a bare bones install.

There aren't really very many actual connections to the electrical system of the car itself. Alarm manufacturers are pretty specific about NOT interfering with circuits that may affect the vehicle during operation (like cutting a wire to the ignition coil or the fuel pump) because of safety issues.

Of course, there are dumb asses out there that do it anyhow just to be slick and stupid. Majority of the installs I have seen follow the book however, and only a ricer would do an alarm install like that on their car...

If you ever have to remove an alarm, remove the brain, shock sensor (usually zip tied to the steering column) siren, but leave any relays in place on the car. Reason being is if the car is starting just fine otherwise, don't try to remove the relay, you will just run a risk of creating an unreliable connection.

Leave the little black relays in place.

PS I like buying old Cliffords I consider myself a fan of 'em. If I was in LAX right now I'd have it running in zero seconds.

rjp

[KaptKaos]

From what I have read, I think you're right Randy. Problem for me is that I am unfamiliar with both the alarm and the Chevy. So I can't really tell what's factory and what isn't.

I have a friend coming by this week to have a look-see. He's a mechanic, and knows Chevy really well.

I will try that key trick tonight though.

[fastfredracing]

What year suburban? I'll get you a wiring diagram, and show you where to re-connect the trigger wire for the starter if I can. Also, never a bad idea to try to take the keys out of the ignition. Lock the car manually, with the key from the outside, then unlock manually, and then try to see if it will light.

[UconnTim97]

The brain of the original alarm on my 944 was behind the glove box. I was able to find it by following the wires from the battery until I found the one going through the firewall to the alarm unit. This happened after I unplugged the battery to change the headlights.

[RANDY P]

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

What year suburban? I'll get you a wiring diagram, and show you where to re-connect the trigger wire for the starter if I can. Also, never a bad idea to try to take the keys out of the ignition. Lock the car manually, with the key from the outside, then unlock manually, and then try to see if it will light.

This is a valid question.

What year surburban? If it's a newer one ("Security" light on dash) it may be the factory unit acting up.

An aftermarket alarm typically makes it so engine won't crank...

Should've asked the question myself.. sorry.

[KaptKaos]

Pretty sure it's aftermarket. It's a 97 'burb. Has one of those little red blinking lights stuck in a spot on the dash.

[bell]

Here's what to do........
Drop the underside of the dash under the steering wheel.
Them look for the small wires coming from the area of the led, the led will go strait to the brain of the alarm.
If it's a decent install everything will be wrapped on black tape, and zip tired to the stock harnesses.
Once you find the brain unplug it, if the truck starts then you can leave it as is our take the time to follow disconnect and secure where they are tied into the truck harness.
Near the main harness under the dash you should find the relay for the starter kill, again will probably be zip tied.
Don't be afraid to cut zip ties, just be careful when you do that you don't cut any wires at the same time.