I know a lot of folks that have had their self esteem bruised when a "hairdresser's car" catches and goes past them.

He still wants crashworthy though. I have personal experience with a Miata vs a Van. A Boxster is significantly more substantial.

A Mazdaspeed Miata would be right around the price G money is looking to spend. I let the Dentist upstairs drive mine and he has been looking to get one since.

Looking at that S I posted earlier tomorrow. Looks like the S market is pretty soft. Is 9k a good discounted price for a car needing some work? KBB shows only 11k for a good condition car! What is a "no stories" 2003 S with 120k miles worth? The 2003 is the newer model and also has side air bags. That sounds good. Only issue on the one I am looking at is the color. Arrest me red. I'd prefer silver.

I'll keep you posted!

G

I've seen a few Boxster S in the $10k range, though most of them look a little rough. If my budget was $10k I would look for a minty 2000+ non-S model.

I looked at that S this morning. Overall well kept. It is very stiff going into all gears, worst is 1st and reverse is practically impossible. Is this indicative of a bad clutch assembly? When the ad said clutch, I was expecting a slipping unit.

Has some poorly repaired front bumper damage that I could live with but definitely not a perfect car. Needs tires and brake disks are worn too.

Seller is a DIY guy and very open about what the car needs. He pointed to the lock / window regulator not working right. He also mentioned that at night, with the headlights on, the dash lighting sometimes goes out ... :eek:

What do you guys think?

Price is firm. I think it is too much of a project with too many problems - electrical gremlins scare me - to be a great deal at 9k. Like OWP mentions, for the same money I can find a no- stories base car. I do not need the performance - have a 993 - but of course we all are greedy for hp and better brakes!!!

Cheers,

G

That doesn't sound like the clutch, which should just slip. Was it just as stiff with the car shut off? The shift cables can get stiff and bind on older cars (replace cables), the plastic connectors at the shifter and transmission wear and can break (replace with new plastic or aftermarket aluminum), and the 986/996 shifter just plain sucks (replace with drop in 997 shifter). From what you said it sounds like the shifter or cables, which sometimes just need adjusted at the shifter (remove console). I have a 997 shifter with EvoMS metal bushings and cable coupling and a Rennline shift knob adjusted to about OEM height, it is super smooth and precise and only set me back about $300 total.

The headlight switch failing is really common in the 986/996, it can lead to intermittent headlights and dash lights. On the upside it's easy and cheap to replace.

If those are the only big issues, I would personally give it serious consideration.

This car has too many things wrong with it - window,electrical, needs tires, possible clutch issues etc etc . I would pass on this one. There are better Boxsters out there for similar $$$ with less issues....G

Thanks OWP - this is very very helpful!

With the car off, the shifter goes into all gears without any stiffness. Good as new. At this point it scares me, as I cannot diagnose it. Definitely would love everyone's input on this!?

Excellent input on the headlight switch. This is what the owner mentioned it may be. I didn't quite buy it.

On that note, the owner's brother is a mechanic (not local to the owner). So the clutch diagnosis may come through him.

Let me know what you think. We took it on a spirited drive, and it sure is a LOT of car for the money - OMG!!!

G

Oooooo Ahhhhh

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394660180.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1394660191.jpg

Geez - I'd rather walk! :D

On a separate note, owner changed clutch slave and cylinder trying to fix this shifting issue to no avail. He thinks it is the pressure plate.

G

But seriously, have you looked over at the affordable 996 thread?

2000 Porsche 911

If I had the money I would be all over that cab.

Well nevermind, if it's smooth at rest then there's something else going on.

Any guess? All I find online is clutch hydraulics, shift fork and pressure plate for those symptoms. Any chance the transmission is shot?

He isn't budging on the price ... I would be willing to play if there was a further discount ...

G

Nice - but more than I'd like to spend right now. Also too close to what I already have.

Thanks!

G

Your real problem is that everyone starts Jonsin' for a Ragtop when spring hits. It is best to buy in mid-winter or to sell in spring.

I vote Miata.

I'm finding the same stuff. Slave cylinder or incorrect bleed, clutch going seem to be the most common. The transmissions are really robust except for a few that exhibit the propensity to pop out of 2nd gear, which can be fixed without a full rebuild.

Too bad he won't come down a bit more, you could do clutch + IMS and be in great shape for a long time. Boxster clutch and IMS can be done with just a transmission drop, no need to pull both. Is the clutch original? Is this the car with 120k?

I feel for you. I love having my ragtops.

My thoughts:
1) I have a 2011 Mustang GT convertible 6 speed. Love it. Ride is definitely more harsh than my A4, but holy crap does it have power. Econ city about 16-17, highway about 22-23 (max was 25). Seats are VERY comfortable. Really mustang has upped there game quite a bit. Space in the back, we typically ride with the 4 of us. I have sat in the back as well. Wouldn't do a cross country but surprisingly good for a convertible. I paid $30k in 2012 for a pristine one with 15k miles. I wouldn't go for the non-gt model. The seats are a huge upgrade. DIY is doable in this. IN 25k miles, only had to do oil changes. Oh, I switch out my brakes and calipers. I had bremo brakes and lo profile wheels, but wasn't great in the snow (gee, what a surprise). Went online and purchased the OEM rotors, calipers and 4 new wheels and tires for $800.

2) Audi A4 Convertible. I have been quite happy with my A4s (both wagons). Since 1998 my DD has been A4s. The 4 cylinder engine is very good (172k miles on mine and counting). 6 speed is pretty fun to drive as well. Power isn't terrific, but you aren't looking for a race car. fuel econ, city about 22ish, highway, I typically get around 30 (but I have the wagon). Interior is really top notch, and the seats are very comfortable. DiY is ok, not a lot of room to get around in engine compartment...

3) Saab 9-3 Convertible. I don't know much about these cars, but they seem to fit all your requirements. Might want to consider it. I think they are a good looking vehicle. You can probably step into one fairly inexpensive given Saabs woes.

Here are my toys...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1340122994.jpg

Good luck, let us know what you get.

The car is coming up to 120k, yes, clutch has 70-80k on it from what I gather. While the guy is the 3rd owner, he says he has records back to day 1.

It would need help right away. The tires and brakes can wait for at least another 5k, especially with summer / dry season around.

I don't get people that put their asking price as the lowest offer they'd take. It is customary to have some padding. But hey, whatever works for him. Seller says he turned down 8k already.

I think I'll spring for a carfax to shed some light on the cars history.

Cheers,

G

http://gomotors.net/pics/Volkswagen/...abrio-05.jpg?i













just kidding! :)

Nynor, that car in black from 2000 up would be a possibility. Yes, takes some self-esteem as a guy, but zippy and open air for less than $4k in good shape! :) I am looking for one, but there aren't many with a stick, for obvious reasons.

Need Space - thanks for your input. The A4 has crossed my mind but I am scared of Audis. You can thank Tim H.

I'll look at the Saab!

G

What about an old bug? You could find a late 70's super convertible for 6-8k easily....