Starter Fly Fishing Equipment from Bass Pro Shops?

[EarlyPorsche]

A buddy is going to teach me how to fly fish in freshwater rivers (east coast). So we're going to go to bass pro (its local and probably not ideal but hopefully can get the job done) to get me some starter gear. What would you recommend at budget of say $200-$250 for the gear?

[J P Stein]

It's easy to spend a bunch of money on fly gear.....even for smallish trout.

Cortland line is good.....no skimping here, IMO. I like full floating double tapers.
All the hot shot long range, easier to cast , weight forwards, shooting heads, BS....are a waste as beginners can't control the line once it's on the water.

Pfulger makes a decent reel & can be fairly inexpensive.

Rods are tougher....good stuff costs. I hesitate to recommend anything as a good rod can easily use up all your budget+....but try a Bass Pro house rod....zero experience here with them.

You'll need to budget 75 bucks or so for expendables. Ya don't need a vest....yet, just easy to store/carry containers.

[jyl]

Minimum basics - assuming small to medium size stream, smaller fish (8"), fishing either dry fly or weighted nymph, on floating line, either from shore or wading "wet" (no waders or wading boots).

Rod - 5 weight, 4 piece, 9 foot, fast action. 4 piece is so much easier to pack, as a beginner the differences in action between 4 and 2 piece don't matter. Fast action is easier to cast. 5 weight is about right for above-described conditions. You could do 6 weight, but not 7. If you're fishing in brushy or wooded streams, you might be tempted to an 8 foot, but stick with 9 foot and learn to roll cast.

Reel - basic. Drag mechanism doesn't matter, a simple click pawl is fine, you'll apply drag w/ your hand. Expensive fly reels are mostly jewelry.

Line - 5 weight, weight-forward, bright color. If you want double-taper, fine. But as a beginner, you want to keep your casts short, and at short range, a DT and WF line are not real different. If you're going to do a lot of roll casting, then pick DT.

Line flotant - paste

Leader - I like braided leader butt with tied-on tippet, but a bunch of tapered leaders is okay too. Use flotant paste on the braided leader, so it doesn't spray as much water when rolling over.

Tippet - 5x, 6x and 7x

Weights - smallest split shot, or twist-on lead weight. This is for fishing your nymph.

Indicator - some stick-on foam indicator. This helps you see where your tippet is.

Flies - depends on where/when you're fishing, ask a shop in the area, don't go overboard - you're going to get a strike, or not, because of your fish-finding skill and stealthy technique, not because your fly is exactly the right color/size.

Fly box - basic foam/plastic box

Hemostat - to crimp barbs, extract hook - needle-nose pliers work just as well, but harder to secure to a reel

Nail clipper - to cut tippet, have this and the hemostat on retractable reels pinned to your shirt - otherwise you'll drop them

Do not get a net, fishing vest, hook extractor/disgorger, other gadgets.

Practice catch and release, learn to handle a fish as little as possible with wetted hands and to slip the hook out quickly. Wild trout are precious. For eating, buy a supermarket trout.

[craigster59]

First, you have to figure out what weight rod and line you are going to use (probably 5wt). Reels are used differently than bait casting, used more to store line than reeling or casting so get something decent but not expensive. 100% positive they will have a few complete outfits for sale (rod, reel and line) that will be a true bargain. Getting the line included will be a real cost saver as it usually costs $45-75 alone.

Consider a lanyard as opposed to vest, you'll have enough storage for tools, etc. Waders and boots can be bought now or further down the line, Cabela's has good deals on those.

Have fun, learn your knots and don't get frustrated. A lot of big hogs are caught closer to shore than you think, you don't have to be chucking your line out 70 feet into the wind to catch a fish. It's a great hobby that involves a lot of thinking and research.

Don't get involved in the big money aspect of it, it's a lot like golf, people spend $$$ on equipment thinking it will improve their game when all they really need is practice (or skill). The fish could give 2 shytes about what you paid for your equipment, it's about placement and stealth. Research Czech nymphing also, that's the technique I've been using lately.

[craigster59]

Wow, great responses guys! All great fly fishers think alike!

[jyl]

I looked quickly at Bass Pro - something like this would be a fine starter rod for now, and a fine spare rod forever.

TFO Professional II Rod and Hobbs Creek® Reel Complete Fly Outfits | Bass Pro Shops

Fly fishing is one of those sports where some people try to buy their way to success, but the equipment actually matters rather little. If you can read water, aren't too proud to belly crawl and stalk, deliver a single crisp cast to the right place without a lot of waving line around, and strike without thinking, you don't need the $500 rod. If you can't, it won't help you.

[craigster59]

I've got a few TFO rods and they are great for the $$ and a lifetime warranty. But you might as well get practicing these, they will be your best friend......
Fishing Knots | How to Tie Fishing Knots | Animated Fishing Knots

[jyl]

Which knots should he know?

Interested to see what people think. Lots of different views on knots.

I think an easy and functional set of knots is triliene knot (aka fisherman's knot?) for tippet to fly, surgeon's knot for tippet to leader, and surgeon's loop or perfection loop for loop to loop connection of leader to line.

[KaptKaos]

Most fly fishers have multiple rigs (ask me how I know) because we all start as noobs, and graduate to better gear. If you were local, I'd lend ya my starter set.

In addition to what's been mentioned, here is my advice.

1) Learn how to tie knots now. Go buy some leader, tippet and some size 18 or 20 flies practice at home, on dry land. If you need glasses to make knots, you'll find out quick!
2) When rigging up. Keep the rod in the rod tube until you're ready to leave. When you return to the car, rod goes in the tube first. No exceptions. Ask me how I know.
3) Felt soled boots for wading. A must IMO.
4) Expect to get wet. You will fall if you haven't waded a lot. Bring spare clothes.
5) Since you're going to get wet, act accordingly with your electronics, smokes, etc...
6) It's deeper than it looks.
7) Be wary of silt and sand bottom sections of rivers. They will suck you in.
8) A wading belt is important. It helps to prevent your waders from filling with water.
9) If you get sucked down, your waders fill up. You won't be able to lift them. Take them off and get to safety first.
10) Bug spray. Trout live where the bugs live.
11) Hat and sunscreen.

Be patient, have fun. Take the time to learn the bugs, and you'll do well. Enjoy!

[id10t]

I got a serviceable rod, reel, line, tippet, etc. for under$50 at wally.... taught me enough about fly fishing that I can't do it in the places I fish (small ponds from banks, no room for back casting, etc)

I'd try to go as inexpensive as possible - if it doesn't drive you mad and you want to continue, then go ahead and spend the $.

Then again, I don't own any fishing rod/reel combo that cost more than $35 or so...

[jyl]

Roll cast. Don't need a back cast. Can go out 60 feet w/ good control. W/ clean line and long tippet, is decently stealthy. For really small ponds, bow and arrow cast. For super tiny ponds, dap.

I learned to fly fish on small wooded streams. Approach on belly, lying flat under the brush, shake out line downstream, load rod w/ current, flick a side cast upstream. Two chances to catch fish - when feeding line downstream, and on the upstream cast and drift. Three casts and that bit of stream was done. Sometimes I wouldn't do a back cast all day. Yeah it was kind of claustrophobic.

[J P Stein]

For most fly fishing top notch gear is not a requirement.
My kind of fly fishing is an exception.

Even your average 7 lb summer run steelhead will tear up cheep stuff in a hurry.
You'd better have a good drag, 100 yards of backing, and maybe track shoes. My largest on a fly is around 15lbs. I know of a fella that goes up to Canada regular like and those average fish are more like 12-13 lbs. Pricey gear gets torn up.

I'll be doing some fishing in SW Washington after June 1 (God willin' & the creek don't rise). Any one that wants to come along is welcome.

Buy the book "Curtis Creek Manisfesto"......bout 10-12 bucks. All the knots you need are in there...a fun read to boot.

[craigster59]

Originally Posted by jyl

Which knots should he know?

Interested to see what people think. Lots of different views on knots.

I think an easy and functional set of knots is triliene knot (aka fisherman's knot?) for tippet to fly, surgeon's knot for tippet to leader, and surgeon's loop or perfection loop for loop to loop connection of leader to line.

Improved clinch, blood knot, double surgeons knot and nail knot are the biggies.

[widgeon13]

Haven't read all the other posts but I would recommend LLBean package for trout. They should have something all set to go for you and they are great to do business with.

[craigster59]

If any of you fly fishers are looking for a good lanyard, these are great. I know the guy and highly recommend them. Western Visions Fly Fishing Lanyards - Home Page

[KaptKaos]

Originally Posted by craigster59

If any of you fly fishers are looking for a good lanyard, these are great. I know the guy and highly recommend them. Western Visions Fly Fishing Lanyards - Home Page

I used to fish with just a lanyard for years. Loved the ease.

[LWJ]

Good thoughts above. I agree mostly but have a couple strong opinions that differ.

1) Have a buddy / shop set up your line and backing. Then you just need to know a basic loop to loop connection with your butt section (tied to the line) and a leader. Tippet use the double surgeon. A clinch knot is fine for the fly - MAKE SURE TO SPIT ON IT and practice. Broken knots lost me lots of fish early on.

2) I really do not like the fast action rods promoted today. The cheaper rods can do a great job. A house brand as long as it is not total garbage should be fine. Same for the reel.

3) I have used small fanny packs turned forward for years. Smaller is better. Less is more.

4) Nobody said anything but I also greatly prefer wet wading or just hip boots. I seldom stand in more than 6 inches of water.

I also have a real attraction to tiny remote streams with dumb trout. I don't catch many monsters as these sort of streams can't support Moby Dick. Surface flies are a LOT more fun than nymphs.

As for fishing? Take your time. Watch the water. If you cast more than 25 feet away you really aren't fishing anymore. 90% of my fish are caught 15 feet or closer. Go with someone who knows the water. The correct fly or knowing when the hatch comes off makes a huge difference.

Have fun!
Larry

[EarlyPorsche]

Thanks so much guys! Hopefully make it out tomorrow and get starter gear. Will let you guys know what I end up with.

[M.D. Holloway]

Bass Pro has a cool travel set-up for $100, includes a rod that can convert from fly to a crappie/openface, two reels and some tackle. Its actually pretty good - rod is semi-stiff and is 4 pc - 8ft . For what it is, its a good deal. Can you catch fish with it? I've caight fish with twine alone.

[M.D. Holloway]

My Son thinks I should look to write an app for fly fishing - match the hatch sorta thing according to the region and time of the year as well as time of the day. Hmmmm