My first full brake job, advice please
 

When I bought our Miata I could tell the disks were worn and would need replacement soon, my mechanic confirmed my assessment.

So in the next few months I will order disks, pads, and lines.

I have looked on the Internet and even have done pads on a few of my cars.

However I have never replaced the lines before or changed the fluid on a car.

Is it best just to drain all the fluid first before changing out the lines to avoid getting brake fluid all over?

Is it best (easiest) to get one of the hand pump vacuum tools to replace the braking fluids when I'm done?

Thanks,

Scott

If it were me, I would drain, replace the hard lines, replace the soft lines with braided (Goodridge), replace the pads with EBC either green or yellow, replace the rotors with EBC. As for fluid, if you can, switch to a synthetic or semi synthetic to raise the boiling point. A copy of chiltons would be good. As for pumps go for something like this:

Eastwood Brake Bleeder

or this:

Mazda Miata Track Dog Racing - Brake Fluid Bleeder Kit

replace the hard lines??

replace the rubber lines with new factory quality rubber hose every 10 years or so; avoid braided SS bling stuff

drain first or hold pedal static to prevent air bubbles; use a pressure bleeder

inspect calipers & dust seals

I would do it for safety. I had a neon that blew two hard lines when I replaced the flex lines with braided lines at 150k. Panic stop with a sinking pedal is no fun...:eek:

Just for safety. If you don't want to replace its your call.

Go on and do this your self Scott, Its so logical and straight forward you will move right through the job. There is probably knowledgeable help here if you get stuck.
Its good to keep the fluid off of other surfaces, especially painted.
Doing the bleeding at the end of the job would be easy if you have an assistant ( my 15 yo son has been helping with this for a few years just fine)

Gives you a good chance to eyeball the suspension, steering and clean the wheel wells etc.

Since the car is active and not an old , been parked for ever project. There is a good chance the caliper pistons won't fight with you.

Cheers Richard

Thanks guys!

Already been under the car a few times, need shocks bad too but brakes are somewhat of a priority ;)

Pelican has the Mityvac Brake Bleeder Kit, is that what I want?

Richard,

Have taken note of you condo, we have a wedding in Seattle and a sick aunt in San Antonio that needs a visit, but we haven't forgotten you!

don't buy the Mityvac Brake Bleeder Kit - you can build a pressure bleeder for $10 using a garden sprayer - search up the hundreds of directions all over der inturnut

maybe Miatas have poor quality hard brake lines?? they last decades on Porsches, even on VWs...

Order some of these while you're at it, makes it easy to bleed them yourself later down the line...
Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

He was referencing a Dodge Neon with 150K miles :)

I will not be changing the hard lines...

What about a line wrench, is that a special wrench I need to buy? I know hydraulic lines sometimes have special fittings that need a specific wrench.

Also what about the speed bleeders, is that also a good investment?

Guess that answers that question :D

Do the pads, rotors, find a local shop to flush the lines. It's so cheap it's not worth buying the motive, tracking down assistant, spending the time to jack it up, all that crap.

PS do skip the bling lines.

I typically spend <$60 when I do it. Much neater and faster, and under an hour. Can't lose.

rjp

Flare nut wrenches are handy if the brakes haven't been touched in a while.

The motive bleeder comes with the right fittings. You'll just eff around with garden sprayers for 4 hours to save $30, the motive definitely is a good investment. There may be guys close by that may lend you theirs too, many of the track junkie Porsche guys have them.

The line wrench grabs the regular line nuts better than an open ended wrench. It is a hybrid between a box end and an open ended wrench so to speak. Go to Sears or Osh and get a metric set from Craftsman.

I would not empty anything out, DO NOT LET AIR GET IN YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM. It will be a b*tch to bleed out again. Just detach the rubber lines, put new ones in, bleed the brakes - done.

Personally I am not a big fan of speed bleeders. Either pump with the foot and use speed bleeders or put the power bleeder and use regular bleeder screws.

HTH.

G

Buy yourself a kit to push the pistons into the calipers. Best ten bucks you can spend.

Do not use Pepsi or Coke as replacement brake fluid - too acidic. Use 7-up or Sprite. Orange Crush can be used in a pinch but might stain the reservoir.

The one thing about the pressure bleeders is that you will have lots of fluid left over to put back into the container or dispose of. Fluid that has been out in the open during the process is going to have a much shorter shelf life. So, what you end up with is waste.

The old fashioned method of 2 people pumping, opening each valve is a tried and proven conservative way to bleed brakes. I have a Motive that I've used 2twice in 7 years.

How 'bout a dark brew?

you can alternate between Orange Crush and Bordeaux to make a clear color line so you can see when you have the old fluid bled out properly

Don't like pumping the brake pedal. The piston and seal usually go to the bottom of the bore where junk/water/rust accumulate which makes the M/C then leak. If you must pump the pedal, tell the pusher to only go 1/2 way down.

That's a good point. I had forgotten that.

It is crucial to have a skilled person inside the vehicle when it's time to bleed the system.
They really need to know when to say "down" and "up".
Jim