Who has used an electric chainsaw sharpener?

[Bill Douglas]

Thanks guys. I hand sharpen with an ordinary files every tank of gas but I think I get a "better cut" with the file doing the left side other than the right side. This results in cutting in a curve so I compensate by pushing/pulling the chainsaw and this wears the bar unevenly. Umm.

So I think something like the Stihl sharpener or a dremel with the right sized grinder. Some guy around here sells diamond covered dremel type stones which he says lasts about three seasons. I think my files have got too worn so I have to lean on them a bit too much resulting in an uneven sharpening.

WDFifteen, I don't know what shaped stone it has. I suspect rounded to get the curve under the saw tooth. I take the chain to a guy every ten cuts who puts it on the machine (like the start of the thread pic) but the who chain ends up being as ground down as the shortest tooth.

[MBAtarga]

I hand sharpen with a Dremel, but I'm not a heavy chain saw user.

[mattdavis11]

I don't have a bench sharpener, but I do have a stone for the dremel. Last time I had one sharpened at the shop, they didn't file down the guides, and from what I can tell, it doesn't look like bench sharpeners are made to, so you would still have to hit them with a flat file.

I do have a Oregon file, but it's not for my chains, it's 5/32nds. What I have read, but not tried, is using a 7/32nds round file on the hook, and a 13/64ths on the cutters, and flat on the guides. Pros say the chain will hold its edge much longer. Your chain will vary.

Mine is a Stihl MS310, 20 inch, 3/8ths .063. I couldn't find a Oregon chain in stock for my application when I really needed one, so I went with an OE replacement. The oilomatic RS3, yellow. It cuts like a hot knife through butter. I did take the liberty of trying to save the old chain with a 1/4 dremel stone and a 5/32nds round file, and it worked awesome. I had nothing to lose.

[Bill Douglas]

Thanks for the replys Guys.

I've thrown away my old files. I think I was leaning on them so hard to get them to work that I was getting the uneven sharpen from that. Also I'm not using the guide, but rather taking time and care to get the right angle, two strokes with a new (new-ish) file, and thinking about it - instead of me just ripping into it trying to get it over with.

The fact that I scrounger firewood. Old fence posts, trees that have blown down in the city parks and reserves etc; I'm bound to hit nails and bits of metal so there is no point in me trying to keep my chains in perfect condition.

[MarkCuban]

I am using oregon chainsaw sharpener model 410-120 bench or wall mounted saw chain grinder its size is smaller than the previous model .this sharpener is light enough to be mounted by a single individual my experience has been so far great with this electric chain saw sharpener I hope this much info will help you out but still you want to know about it or any other electric chainsaw sharpener then you must go through this source https://topreviewedten.com/best-electric-chainsaw-sharpener/

[E38Driver]

I use a Stihl chain saw file like this and it works great. It also files the guide down to the correct level as well. Three passes on each tooth and sharp as a new chain. MAke sure to get the one with the correct pitch for you chain.https://www.prcedo.com/lf5c416j/stihl-2-in-1-easy-file-chainsaw-chain-sharpener--325

[Gretch]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Thanks guys. I hand sharpen with an ordinary files every tank of gas but I think I get a "better cut" with the file doing the left side other than the right side. This results in cutting in a curve so I compensate by pushing/pulling the chainsaw and this wears the bar unevenly. Umm.

So I think something like the Stihl sharpener or a dremel with the right sized grinder. Some guy around here sells diamond covered dremel type stones which he says lasts about three seasons. I think my files have got too worn so I have to lean on them a bit too much resulting in an uneven sharpening.

WDFifteen, I don't know what shaped stone it has. I suspect rounded to get the curve under the saw tooth. I take the chain to a guy every ten cuts who puts it on the machine (like the start of the thread pic) but the who chain ends up being as ground down as the shortest tooth.

Bill, I run several saws (4 at any one time)........ use to fell, limb, skid, buck split and stack 20+ cord a year.

I use a bench sharpener. Northern tool bench mounted. spent about $190 on it, I have lilely sharpened all my chains 5 to 7 times on it. I have 20+ chains which I will rotate through over time. After sharpening with the bench grinder, I install on a saw and touch up the chain with a hand file with every fill of the tank. after 5 or 6 times (or if the saw starts cutting in s "curve" as you describe) I remove the chain and hang it up to be sharpened. I get several years out of my chains.

Two things.

First, the saw cutting in a curve means one side of the chain is cutting deeper than the other side. You may have put it in the dirt, hit some imbedded dirt, wire, stone or what ever, but you now have one side of the chain duller than the other. Generally unless you have a very good eye for it, you cannot fix this with a hand file.

second:

You Should have all the teeth on the chain the same length as each tooth is pitched up a tad and this is why it acts like a chisel as it passes over the wood. longer teeth dig deeper. You can get away with one or so teeth bunged up if they are far away from each other, or right next to each other right and left. Otherwise, generally all the teeth on the chain need to be the same length or the chain will NOT cut straight.

finally, cutting the rakers down does not have to be precise. they are designed to limit the depth the teeth will cut. If you cut then down too much the saw will bite deep and you will have to have a steady hand to control the saw. A chain cut right, teeth and rakers, will cut through a big log with simply the weight of the saw on the bar and your hands holding it steady.

With some practice you can get your saw to cut this way, and it is a thing of beauty!

[LEAKYSEALS951]

I have the el-cheepo harbor freight version of the OP's original pic.

It has worked well. Not having any experience with professional cutting I had three thoughts on it.

1st- it is made of some flimsy fiberglass material, so it is not entirely stiff, which I grew to like, as I could "bend" the saw to get it to the angle I wanted without resetting the chain.

2nd - the HF motor is whimpy, but works.

3rd- it feels like it takes an eternity to sharpen a chain, even with a motorized getup.

FINALLY_

All this is mute- as I found a "guy" who does it for $7 a pop. I take the chains to him and have never looked back.

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by Gretch

A chain cut right, teeth and rakers, will cut through a big log with simply the weight of the saw on the bar and your hands holding it steady.

Thanks Guys. I've got better over the years. Not perfect, but better LOL

I keep my files fairly fresh. I use the correct file!!! I've used slightly wrong ones in the past, although they looked like the right one.

Each tank of gas I give the chain a sharpen. No guide but use the lines on the tooth (Oregon chains have this) and run the file parallel to this lightly twice. No need to take off more. And 15 degrees angle downwards.

If it doesn't seem to be biting in enough I run a flat file over the guides. A couple of strokes - nothing too scientific haha, and this works well.

Interesting point about the teeth needing to be the same length. The fact that they are angled slightly would mean the longest ones (longest side) do all the cutting and pull it that way I guess.

To summarize what they said on the two day use and safety chainsaw course, don't ever be looking straight down at the chain. Hold the chainsaw on the left side so if it ficks back it goes up and over your right shoulder. After ten years of using a chainsaw I got my first BAD kickback a week ago today. It was very hard, near petrified, wood and the tip caught it. woooo, it felt worse that firing a 44 Magnum (:eek) and my flipping the bird finger is still really sore.

[Gretch]

I could do well cutting chains for $7 a pop.......... takes about 2 - 3 minutes to set up sharpener for the chain and 5 minutes to cut the teeth and rakers. if chains are grouped by tooth size and angle of cut, I can do 10 - 12 chains in an hour. I have paid for my sharpener MANY times over, just cutting my own chains.

[KFC911]

My uncle has the HF version...I have the Oregon $200 (NT $20 off) purchased a few years ago....no comparison imo. Wish I'd bought one decades back....jmho.

I hit the chains with a stroke or two by hand on every fillup, but the Oregon is nice.

[KFC911]

Originally Posted by Gretch

I could do well cutting chains for $7 a pop.......... takes about 2 - 3 minutes to set up sharpener for the chain and 5 minutes to cut the teeth and rakers. if chains are grouped by tooth size and angle of cut, I can do 10 - 12 chains in an hour. I have paid for my sharpener MANY times over, just cutting my own chains.

And "they" don't give a crap...grind 'em good & git 'r done....my dad's "guy".... SUCKED

[MBAtarga]

A 6 year old thread re-opened by a new member and he posts in "almost English" -
I hope this much info will help you out but still you want to know about it or any other electric chainsaw sharpener then you must go through this source - (link removed.)

[Baz]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

A 6 year old thread re-opened by a new member and he posts in "almost English" -
I hope this much info will help you out but still you want to know about it or any other electric chainsaw sharpener then you must go through this source - (link removed.)

Yep. This is what I was seeing....

[Bill Douglas]

This stuff. Could be. I'm going to Samoa in a couple of months so I thought I better have actually eaten the national dish of Samoa by the time I get there.

I may bring a whole lot of tins of Spam and swap them for rock lobster.

I'll open this today, gulp.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by vash

i just use a hand file and eyeball it. the file really can only fit one way, one direction.

You would be surprised at what some people can screw up. When I sharpened chains where I worked a couple of times guys would bring in a chain they sharpened with a file and the pressed DOWN on the file! The had a deep grove cut in the link and hadn’t touched the cutting edge at all.

[dainnerott]

The PowerSharp is a one of a kind cutting tool sharpener that takes only seconds to hone the majority of the teeth on your saw and can oblige a wide range of various sorts of cutting tools, including Stihl, Olympyk, and Oleo-Mac Chainsaws. This cutting tool honing pack accompanies the PowerSharp bar and chain, and the one of a kind honing connection with the stone that will hone your chain in simple seconds. https://www.consumersbase.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/ After considering all these factors Oregon 511AX Sharpener is one of the best available options which rely on average size suits with all kind of requirement and also better with power and speed.

[dainnerott]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

I'm thinking of buying this thing ToolShed Electric Chainsaw Sharpener - The Tool Shed as I do a really bad job of sharpening chainsaws by hand. Do you have an opinons on it?

The PowerSharp is a one of a kind cutting tool sharpener that takes only seconds to hone the majority of the teeth on your saw and can oblige a wide range of various sorts of cutting tools, including Stihl, Olympyk, and Oleo-Mac Chainsaws. This cutting tool honing pack accompanies the PowerSharp bar and chain, and the one of a kind honing connection with the stone that will hone your chain in simple seconds. https://www.consumersbase.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/ After considering all these factors Oregon 511AX Sharpener is one of the best available options which rely on average size suits with all kind of requirement and also better with power and speed.