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Still Doin Time
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nokesville, Va.
Posts: 8,225
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Portable Media Blasters / Question
Hi, on my '70 SS LS5 Chevelle I have some slight surface rust on most of the frame and underbody. It is way more area than could be addressed by hand/drill wire brush.
Ideally I'd like to rent an air powered media blaster that would use product soft enough to get most of the surface rust. Like walnut shells or something else like that. I do not want to seperate the body from frame, just a good clean-up prior to painting. Anyone here have experience with this? I have used sand blasters before same machine basically but different material. Suggestions please. Thanks!
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05-24-2013, 05:10 AM
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Model Citizen
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Voodoo Lounge
Posts: 18,964
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I've heard good things about soda blasters, they seem to address the very problem you speak of, but I have no real-world experience; I'd like to see what the trust of the brains have to say!
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"I would be a tone-deaf heathen if I didn't call the engine astounding. If it had been invented solely to make noise, there would be shrines to it in Rome" |
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05-24-2013, 05:13 AM
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FUSHIGI
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: somewhere between here and there
Posts: 10,757
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I thought there were paint adhesion issues after soda blasting?
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05-24-2013, 07:33 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Usa
Posts: 5,573
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Blasting
There are may blasting medias for our use. As mentioned Soda, walnut and plastic beads. They are all used when you want the paint and rust gone while leaving glass, chrome and other part of that type on. I would suggest that you not do this yourself as it can go sideways if you don't have that experience. The next issue would be cost if you can find someone in you area that provides this service they can generally do it for less than what it will cost you to do it. I know this first hand, this media is not cheap unless you buy bulk. Soda basting as others a ground point should be installed, why I don't know but the guy I use tells me it's a must. After soda basting a thorough cleaning and wash down with metal prep and conditioner is a must to neutralize the PH and promote adhesion.
Steve the other half of Angela
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05-24-2013, 09:19 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,791
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Well, there's blasting and then there's blasting. On the frame and underbody, you can do a clean up and then treat with acid, neutralize and paint with a number of products that will hold for a long time. While this is not by any means a restoration, it will suffice on a street car.
What I am saying is that it is possible to just knock the loose stuff off and penetrate to bare metal without total down to the last pore cleaning. You can't get to the top of the frame anyway, so the bounce back will have to do. I'm not sure what the aversion to sand is. Walnut shells and all the dirt and scale is not going to be a lot less harsh on moving parts than sand. The debris gets into hidden places no matter how you go about it even just a pressure wash. Which is a thought. Have you considered a pressure wash with media or having some dry ice blasting done? Soda is a bloody mess and should not be done portable. Well, it's all messy. |
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05-24-2013, 11:21 AM
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