Older Chev truck help

[speeder]

I picked up a 1988 Chevy K1500 Silverado 4x4, really good overall condition but o course needs some repairs. If anyone knows how the interior door panels come off before I spend an hour searching YouTube, I'd be mucho obliged.

What I really need is the Pelican equivilant for Chevy trucks, if there is such a thing. Anyone have a good online source for OEM and aftermarket parts? I just bought a brake MC for it and have to confess that none of the aftermarket brands rang any bells. I'm hoping that one of our members in the domestic auto parts industry chimes in.

The last time I owned a bow tie product was so long ago that I could still get AC/Delco anything for it at a FLAPS.

[porsche4life]

If its like any other GM product.... Just pull the bottom side out a bit and look for clips. I'd bet there are some bolts in the door pull/arm rest too...

[stomachmonkey]

Remove the screw under the door handle and armrest.

Pull panel straight up.

Works that way on my Tahoe but then again it's much newer.

[Zeke]

Sid is correct. Screws in arm rest that are visible and the cover over the door opener pulls straight off. If crank windows, push the panel back to reveal the clip. You need the cheap tool. Once everything is loose, pull straight up off the door frame. There is no separate interior sill like on a 911.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Post up some pics Denis. For some unknown reason I've been eyeing 1980s Chevy/GMC pickups and Blazers as a daily beater. I had a 1979 Chevy truck as a driver in high school, that era of GM pickup has some fond memories associated with it.

[speeder]

Thanks guys. I'll post some pics if I ever get home to my laptop. It's a sweet old truck.

I figured out the door panel and replaced the outside door handle, slight PIA but NBD. It's held on with push clips like most cars of days past, (including Mercedes-Benz), you simply pop them with tool and then lift door off of top sheet metal. It sounds like the newer models have the other clips that are part of the panel and hook downward into sheet metal. Oddly enough, MB and BMW changed to those about the same time. I guess there was an advance in panel design about then.

Still need parts source(s)?

[porsche4life]

Rock Auto should have about everything you need for that pretty cheap...

[Zeke]

Clips and things? NAPA has a lot of body fasteners.

[RANDY P]

if it's like my 89 you have two fasteners for the pull handle underneath these little square plugs, the panel for the power locks and switches just pries out, and concerning that awful switch and harness arrangement, it's designed where you have to remove the molex / harness plug they are locked in place with tabs,) release tabs and slide out, then push the switches out of the panel.

Hint: Oreilly's carries those switches in stock cuz they burn up all the time. I think they're like $20 ea for the window switches. Fix 'em now if htey are smokes.

The rest o the panel pulls away, and its held up on top by the window trim strip, so with the window rolled partially down you have to fight by pulling the bottom of door panel away, then puling up and you'll probably wind up ****ing up the window sqeegee fuzz by doing that but who cares, not noticeable.

Cutting door speakers is a PITA, but it's doable. You need to make or order some speaker spacers made of particle board make sure the wood is 1/2 thick, and NO MORE, and then cut all this damn metal behind the door (you'll notice it's mostly a steel plate) and cut away even more metal, and let the wiring to the door switches rest WITHIN the door cavity itself, instead of sitting outside the metal panel.

You are basically making a new opening for the wiring harness to run, otherwise the speakers will never, ever sit right nor will the door panel with the speaker in place. YOu can cut the metal with tin snips.

Lots of duct tape wire ties for the wiring harness, a few band aids for your fingers, and you're good to go.

I got finished pics of my doors if you want 'em. I dare not show the panel behind. I ain't taking it back apart, it's butchery back there (but it works, so don't laugh)

Let me know man..

rjp

[Bill Douglas]

If it's a 1988 it's going to require on going maintenance so you might as well buy the manual (Haynes or who ever covers these trucks) now.

[RANDY P]

Es mi troca Pepe 1989

It's got a hittin system in it. Mids cut into the doors, and tweeters into the dash, and a big sub and big amp running everything.

rjp

[RANDY P]

PSS if you get into yanking the engine for some reason, let me know. I got the shortcuts on that deal. I did a swap in Pepe above in 2 days flat. Truck blew a HG and I was hoping to get away with fresh heads, but the block was scored. So, yank it and dump it.
Imported my monkey from WA to help me (done so many motor swaps with this guy it ain't funny)


You will LOOOVE how simple the HVAC system is. It's a joke to work on. You could rebuild everything on it within 2 hours- everything is THAT accessible. Right underneath the glovebox, don't even need to sit in the truck to yank heater cores or evaporators. AWESOME.

[RANDY P]

These trucks are the epitome of simple- anyone can tear them apart. I'll never sell mine.

Ok goin to bed now. off my soapbox.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Denis, I think the parts source is whichever FLAPS has the parts cheapest. You should never struggle finding parts for it, even in Podunk KS. If you want to do online my favorite source for non-Porsche misc stuff is ********AZ. I've ordered a ton of parts from them over the years, their service is comparable to Pelican (i.e. excellent) and really quick shipping. I believe there are a number of sources for GM pickup restoration parts but I don't have any firsthand experience with those, I'm sure Randy has some preferences.

[speeder]

Ooooh, Randy...that thing is beautiful. I'm a sucker for these Chevys because of their looks and I'd really like a mildly modified 2WD that is lowered like that. That is actually a functional thing because it makes it easy to load.

I was looking for a cheap, full-size PU and I stumbled across this 1988 4WD w/ 97k original miles in bone stock condition other than later Chevy 17" rims. It's loaded, (PW/PL/tilt/cruise/sliding rear window/locking diff/etc.), and in really nice driver condition. It has a few needs, as is often the case when some poor guy lost his job and need to sell his truck. I bought a new Dorman brake MC for $35 including reservoir, and door handle for $37, also Dorman. They seem like decent replacement parts.

Here are the only pics I have now, I'll get more later.

[speeder]

And yes, it's 100% original paint with plenty of small battle scars. It came from Mount Baldy, the guy was a heavy equipment operator who also worked at the ski area. It spent most of it's life in Riverside, so dry as a bone.

I just need a full-size truck to pull an occasional trailer and haul once in a while, so it should do the trick. I bought it because it's a nice truck with the thought that I might fix it up and flip it for a newer one but I really like the thing.

Most everything works in it including ice cold A/C.

[Zeke]

I've gone through 2 driver's door handles on mine in the 24 years I've owned it.

[johnco]

the only door handles available for my ford f350 are plastic, just like they came from the factory. everytime I let someone drive my truck, they break off the handle. must change it 4-5 times a year.last summer I had to change it out 3 times in 2 days. the second handle was broken off by the one of the 2 idiots I had working for me within an hour of me changing the one he broke the day before. the third one was broken the next morning by my other idiot 15 minutes after I installed it. no one makes sells metal handles, not even the dealer. think I might have to bend some flat bar and make my own next time someone drives my truck

[speeder]

Johnco, did you ever think of warning them not to break your handles??

[porsche4life]

Good looking truck dennis. And I like the wheels! Those are off an '07 or later truck. I'm pretty sure thats whats on my dads '10.