Pavement epoxy?

[Shaun @ Tru6]

I need to fill in some troughs in my pavement, maybe a quarter inch thick in places.

Is there a thick version of garage floor epoxy that I can trowel in place? or something else? has to be hard enough to withstand a jack+car.

[stomachmonkey]

Hydraulic cement? Sets up real fast. Don't know about compressive properties.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

That might work, I'll do some research, thanks Scott. I need it to level out the floor in my shelter and build a little berm to divert water in front of it as the pavement slants down in 2 dimensions. I'm now finishing up building a new one after my original got crushed under 2 feet of snow in January, this one will be much better and weather proof, just need to keep rain water from running in via two troughs in the pavement.

The frame I made from electrical conduit, half done here.



Reusing the old shelter cover temporarily, new one that will wrap under and up arriving this week



Started making doors with the silk screen frames



Doors finished. Found that the old screen adhesive is INCREDIBLY toxic. I'm surprised I still have lungs. Got my respirator out immediately after breathing in some dust while grinding.



Progress and mock-up. Had to make a spreader, nothing is square of course, neither the frame nor the ground. Backbreaking hard work.



Incremental spreader.



Finally just made a buttress to keep it square while welding in the sides. That worked well.



Frame is nice and square.



I got the doors hung end of day yesterday and I'm fairly happy with it. New cover is on the way, next I have to panel the front and the doors.

[OffCamber00]

Use epoxy and mix in some sand. I did that to fill in the saw cuts in my garage floor before i did the normal epoxy coating.

[JAR0023]

Check your local hardware store or HomeDespot if you want to look online. There are products for both concrete and asphalt. Some can be troweled in and others come in rope form and you melt them in. I have no idea how much weight can be supported. I just started looking into this myself. The bulk of my drive is asphalt and I have some chunking where the asphalt transitions to concrete. -J

[Tim Hancock]

I don't have a good answer for you, but structural epoxy would cost a fortune if you are talking about using a bunch of gallons of it.

[oldE]

Shaun,

Neat project.

If you get two feet of snow again, I suspect the snow trapped between the adjacent building and your new structure is going to jack your shelter away from the building.

Best
Les

[Baz]

Electrical conduit for the frame...pretty nifty!

The box stores should have what you need to address those driveway issues.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by oldE

Shaun,

Neat project.

If you get two feet of snow again, I suspect the snow trapped between the adjacent building and your new structure is going to jack your shelter away from the building.

Best
Les

in the past Les, it has only bulged in between the skeleton, but that was when I had the 20 degree incline of a ready-made shelter. I made this at 45 for more space, feeling less like a cave.

Mostly the snow just sits on top.

But I am going to work on something so it either gets caught above the gap or all slides to the yard next to me.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by Baz

Electrical conduit for the frame...pretty nifty!

The box stores should have what you need to address those driveway issues.

Using conduit and a hay tarp, I'm into it for about 35% the cost of buying a manufactured shelter, but better, my peak is 6 feet higher.

[Don Ro]

Originally Posted by OffCamber00

Use epoxy and mix in some sand. I did that to fill in the saw cuts in my garage floor before i did the normal epoxy coating.

The previous owners of my place filled in some concrete patio holes with epoxy and used bondo for other holes. If they had added sand it would have matched better.
.
Good luck.

[304065]

Quickrete self leveling floor resurfacer.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa

Using conduit and a hay tarp, I'm into it for about 35% the cost of buying a manufactured shelter, but better, my peak is 6 feet higher.

FWIW Shaun, because of your thread and photos, and your ingenuity with the conduit, you have helped me with a protective structure I built in my side yard. It has 4x4 posts and 2x4 supports but I never could figure out how to build the roof so storm water would roll off properly. Right now one side is higher than the other and I just have a thick tarp (like yours) stapled on both sides. Like a lean-to. But I like your A-frame concept better. All I have to do is attached the conduit to my existing wood posts, cover with tarp, and walla....

Good luck with the completion of yours. I may post a pic of mine if it turns out publish-worthy!

[TimT]

We have re-decked some of the big bridges that link Manhattan and Long Island to the rest of the world....

Basically removed the old composite road surface, and tried to replace it with a lighter orthotropic floor system..

In some case its worked beyond expectations, in others not so much..

Having said that we have specified thin wearing surfaces i.e. 3/8 max thickness epoxy overlays..

These have fillers of fine Basalt... (as manufactured to spec by Tamms, Transpo,Euclid, etc.)

As with any overlay or surface treatment.... the most important thing for success is surface prep...

No matter what product you chose... proper surface prep will be the key to success...

Sorry for sounding like an infomercial.... This is some something I know a little about

[look 171]

I have had good result with Ardex. My architect even spec it out as finish flooring on one job. check out their utube stuff. Impressive product.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

A lot to think about and research more, thanks everyone for the info, really opened up the field.