Mountain bikes - input needed
 

Have the opportunity to buy an entry-level mountain bike. Main use will likely be around town biking (to and from the tennis courts), and some light moutain trails (dirt and rock) as well as some paved trails.

So the questions:

1. Hardtail vs. dual shock - pros and cons of both

2. Brands: Kent vs. Cycle Force Group. I believe both are pretty low-end brands, but which has better quality? Specifically, I'm looking at the following bikes:
Kent Shogun Rock - dual shock, 26" 21 speed (Shimano gears)
Kent Shogun Trail Blaster - hardtail, 26" 18 speed (Shimano gears)
Kent Shogun Shockwave -
Cycle Force Group Mantis Eagle -- hardtail, 26" 18 speed

3. Accessories: helmet, gloves, water bottle, pump. anything else I should consider?

These are pretty much my only choices. I know there are better brands out there, but this is what I have to work with.

Thoughts?

Z.

I am researching entry level mountain bikes myself to replace my $150 bycicle so I can share with you my ideas so far.

Dual shocks are for aggresive downhill riding. If you only ride around town and light trails a dual shock will only add weight and cost (you will get less bike for your money).

All bikes use Shimano components (well, not all but most). You need to know the hierarchy between Shimano components, which for mountain bikes is Tourney < Altus < Acera < Alivio < Deore < ... (there are more levels upwards but they are not relevant to your needs). Tourney is basically what I have in my $150 bike and hope to get around Alivio for the $600 new bike.

Most bikes mix the components so you can have an Acera levers and an Alivio derailleur or vice-versa. So you will want to check the full component list and compare them.

If you link the specific bikes you are looking at it will be easier to recommend you one.

Z-man,

Please do not take any big box store bike off road. Real bicycles come in sizes to fit you. A 6'0 person needs one size and a 5'6" person will need another.

Cheap bikes are fine for street use 3-4 miles at a time. If you want to see dirt with out seeing a dr. please go to a BICYCLE shop.

Craiglist can also be your friend. Something a little older, but in good shape will set you back a similar amount to a department store bike...maybe like this:

MID 90-S GARY FISHER AQUILA MOUNTAIN BICYCLE EXCELLENT CONDITION

Understood. At this point, I can see only doing street stuff, and smooth dirt trails with the bike. If I progress, I would upgrade. I used to ride my 12 speed bike all over the towns in my area years ago -- but that was only on pavement.

The bike choices are limited because I was awarded 'recognition points' at work, and instead of getting some electronics that I don't need, I'd rather cash in on something that can help me loose my gut. I play tennis on Tuesdays, and the courts are about 2 miles from home. I figure I could warm up by biking there instead of driving.

That's all they are really for? So a hardtail is more efficient due to less absorbtion of the bumps? What about uphill? Is a hardtail easier when pedaling uphill?

Thanks for the input so far...
-Z-man.

Yes, a hardtail is more efficient uphill, particularly in low end bikes.

IMO - If those are your only choices, get the Kent "Shogun Trail Blaster".

The complete lack of suspension would be a feature in that there will be less to 'break' on the bike.

Enjoy!

-B

Buy the most expensive mountain bike you can find, preferably over $3500.

Ride it once, then hang it on the wall in the garage and tell everyone that comes over how much it cost.

That's what the guys I know who live in south Orange County do ......... ;)

Z, I just bought a used Specialized Rockhopper from Craigslist for $225, the same thing I would have spent on a POS Walmart bike. It was about $850 new. The biggest and most obvious difference to me (fat out of shape riding in town) is the frame, it is dramatically lighter than the cheap big box store bikes. I also went to a bike store and "tried on" frame sizes, then was able to Craigslist shop for the right size for me. Assuming I get into shape and want to get more serious with trail stuff (I hope), I already have a good frame and components to start with and would probably upgrade to a better front shock.

Btw - the Kent Shogun Rock (the dual suspension bike) goes for $295 on Amazon. The two hard tail bikes (cycle force and kent trail blaster) are $144 - $182 for what I've seen on the interwebs.

Don't know why the Rock is twice as much - but they are all in the same rewards points range.

I'm kinda thinking either of those two Kents - leaning towards the Shogun Rock

Get the free bike

sell it

buy a decent mb used
specialize trek cannondale

no box store bikes

Everyone thinks they need a mountain bike, but then they get tired of riding a big heavy fat tire bike around town...

Consider a decent used road bike, you can ride it on trails just fine, and it will be way better in the 90% of riding you'll do most of the time: roads and paths...

If need good offroad capability, look into a cyclocross bike. Basically a road bike with more offroad geometry and tires.

If you're 100% convinced you need a mountain bike, for the love of god, don't get a full suspension bike.

cyclocross?

Here's a nice Cyclocross bike, back when they were made in USA even:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannondale-Optimo-Cyclocross-58cm-/321137711000?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&hash=item4ac54c 9798

Cyclocross is the biking equivalent of rally racing...

Ask "K9Handler"-he's a mountain bike guru. He had some tricked-out rigs when we visited him in Germany.

What drawbacks do full suspension bikes have for simple road riding?

What about those bikes with have just a front suspension fork?

Thanks for the info folks!

-Z

Z-any suspension absorbs pedaling energy, the more money you spend the less it does this while still being compliant. Inexpensive full suspension bikes have busihings instead of bearings and no rear shock to speak of, just a spring. They're awful.

If you're just using this on roads , get a non suspended bike if they offer one, it'll be fine on smooth trails too. If all you can get is suspended, it'd be nice if the fork has a lockout, some do.

And for everyone suggesting Z buy elsewhere, he's doing this with reward points from work, so choices are limited. The bike will have little resale value, so flipping it is not really an option.

Tool bag for the saddle with patches and a tube and a few simple tools (Look on your bike and see what sort of fasteners are on it). I also throw in a couple pair of rubber gloves and a rag and a couple of dollar bills...

I was looking at purchasing a new mb a few years ago and I test rode a Fuji full suspension and hated it. It bounced up and down while peddling up hills and seemed to zap a lot of my forward momentum. It also weighed a lot more than a hard-tail. I don't do a lot of aggressive off-road downhills so any kind of suspension system just didn't seem like a good fit for me.

I looked at all the different bikes you have listed and they all seem to do what you need them to do. Like some have said, get the most expensive one you can (if you are using points and not cash) and ride it for a while. Then if you want something more aggressive, craigslist it and look for something more sturdy like a used Specialized.

First thing I would change on any bike are the grips and the seat (and pedals if you can.) That is where you contact the bike and will probably notice the most change. Definitely spend the coin on a good seat.

I agree with buying used off of CL. Lots of decent bikes to choose from for cheap. If you were in the LA area I'd sell you a 2000 Trek 8000, built in the USA, top of the line components (for that time), $1100 new for $250.