Best way to fill gaps in outdoor redwood railing?

scottmandue · 08-20-2013, 06:58 AM

I am in the process of installing a 2x6 redwood railing on the front porch. It came out nice but the two corner cuts (90 degree, two 45 degree cuts) have small (1/8 inch) gaps.

It looks ok but I'm thinking it might be nice to use some kind of filler/wood putty/caulk to make it perfectly smooth before I paint.

I know we have some professional carpenter/wood workers here, what would you recommend?

It is a 14 foot span along the front with a 42" corner piece connected to the house on 2 1/4" posts. I have a 2 1/2" hole saw and going to drill/chisel out 1" deep holes to set the railing, should/could I glue it down? (silicone/liquid nails?)

Thanks!

look 171 · 08-20-2013, 07:15 AM

You need mechanical fasteners to hold the corners to keep it from expanding and contracting with seasonal changes. How about a metal plate under there somewhere to keep it close or a spline to keep it from moving up and down from each other? From what I read, it is opening at the 45*joint?

Why not just get a 2 1/4 hole saw so there are no opening to fill if that's what you are doing? A Forstner bit will drill a flat bottom hole without having to chisel.

scottmandue · 08-20-2013, 09:51 AM

Yes two 45's joining to make a 90.

have metal plates (galv) screwed into the underside (galv screws).

It has two 90's one 42" that butts up to the house on one side and a short about 18" that meets the stairway (14 feet span along front of porch).

it is stable enough that I can lift it on and off to drill the holes to match the posts.

Just that my carpentry skills are DIY so there are small gaps in the meeting of the 45's I would like to fill (whole thing will be painted).

Wish I had taken a picture!

latroz · 08-20-2013, 10:59 AM

Put a nice Redwood planter or piece of chainsaw art on top to cover the gap.

j8tg · 08-20-2013, 02:02 PM

Try CPES--clear penetrating epoxy sealer. Have used this on antique boat restoration projects with some of the wood redwood. It has the consistency of water and seals the moisture content in place so it will not contract and expand. On wood bottom boats this allows for a "no soak" bottom. You can caulk with Sitkaflex 221 and that can be painted or stained.

Search: cpes

Sikaflex 221 Adhesive Sealant

TG
1986 930
Littleton, Co

look 171 · 08-20-2013, 02:47 PM

You can't seal in or seal out the moisture. Lumber will move with seasonal changes. Much like today, it will suck up moisture in the evening time and swell up. By mid day, it will dry and shrink.

Take a pic when you have a chance will ya. You might have to re-cut the joint to get it to close.

scottmandue · 08-20-2013, 02:56 PM

I'll try to get a photo, honestly it is not that bad (my wife didn't even complain!)

It is probably ok just the way it is, just hurts my DIY mojo to see that little gap, I'm thinking DAP plastic wood will be fine. (remember it is going to be painted)

Can't get a photo tonight, boys night out, beer and hot wings, a man's got to do what a man's gotta do!

j8tg · 08-20-2013, 03:02 PM

You can seal moisture in with CPES. We coat all new wood and frame work at water line and below with it before any staining for antique boat restoration. It works so effectively that I can put a planked bottom boat in the water after a season of trailer storage in Colorado and only the shaft log will drip moisture. You can go as far as caulking with 3m between the planks without any worry of cupping ot tearing with any board movement. I used this on my deck railings and newels before they were painted as the newel posts had end grain on the top.

TG

Zeke · 08-20-2013, 03:21 PM

If it's gong to be painted, fill it with caulk. The caulk will move with the wood. Polyurethane is the best but Alex by DAP is fine.

Put tape close to either side of the gap. Fill slightly high and let dry for a day. Skim the excess off with a cutter that will lay flat to the joint. I like a super sharp chisel.

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

get the board stretch out & re-cut long enough.. since being painted im with tig mcstick... otherwise let it breathe, any sort of Dutchman, or filler will stand out like a turd in a punch bowl.. a "Dutchman" is another fabricated piece of wood a carpenter makes to fix a mistake... we used to say "cant see it from my house", but I guess that does not apply here... just dont drop keys into the open overcut gap, or let children walk too close as they might fall in...

put a potted plant on it & it'll be our lil secret....

A930Rocket · 08-20-2013, 06:33 PM

+1 Keep it simple.

Quote:

If it's gong to be painted, fill it with caulk. The caulk will move with the wood. Polyurethane is the best but Alex by DAP is fine.

Put tape close to either side of the gap. Fill slightly high and let dry for a day. Skim the excess off with a cutter that will lay flat to the joint. I like a super sharp chisel.

scottmandue · 08-21-2013, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeke

If it's gong to be painted, fill it with caulk. The caulk will move with the wood. Polyurethane is the best but Alex by DAP is fine.

Put tape close to either side of the gap. Fill slightly high and let dry for a day. Skim the excess off with a cutter that will lay flat to the joint. I like a super sharp chisel.

Thanks, I will pick up a tube of polyurethane caulk, I have a couple little spots around the house (outside) that I want to touch up.

Geeze guys, we are talking about a 1/8" imperfection in a 45 joint on a 2x6 railing... you guys make it sound like a family of raccoons is going to move into the void.

In a perfect world I would router a quarter round on the whole thing too, but I have a front porch with two inch pipes sticking up in the air, a bit of a safety issue.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmandue

you guys make it sound like a family of raccoons is going to move into the void.

if you used an oil based stain, then they will

look 171 · 08-21-2013, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb

if you used an oil based stain, then they will

our oil base anything suck. That's if you can still get it

scottmandue · 08-21-2013, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

our oil base anything suck. That's if you can still get it

Amen to that! Wife picked up a nice little chest at a garage sale... and got some black stain for it... I removed the hardware, sanded, and painted it out... go into the garage and stick the brush in the sink to wash it and nothing happens... go outside and look at the can "oil based"... took a day for each coat to dry and three coats...