Need lightweight roofing solution
 

I have a small carport (32' wide x 22' deep) on which I have installed Palram | PALTOP corrugated sheets. This stuff is a lightweight PVC foam sheet. It has been on there about 5 years. It seemed like it was pretty durable, but several sheets came loose last spring during a big windstorm we had.

I got this stuff @ Home Depot, and marketing materials on the shelf proclaimed a 10 year warranty (which on the website seems to have been reduced to 5 years) I called the manufacturer with my complaints, and it seems the only things the warranty covers are hail damage and color fade. On top of that, it seems I didn't install it correctly. I used self-drilling sealing screws in all of the valleys, directly to the purlins. They want you to use their special "closure" strips and put the screws through the hills.

What failed was the material around the screws; cracks developed about 1/2" away from the fasteners, which let the material lift off. Once the first section got started, there was more 'sail area' which made it easier for the next set to fail, etc. I think this is a combination of some of the fasteners were too tight, which stressed the material, and because I put the fasteners in the valleys, which are curved and not flat.

I need to replace the entire roof. I want something that is not translucent, and is durable. My handyman neighbor is saying I should just sheath it and put standard asphalt shingles to match the house, but I think that might be too much weight. I thought about using metal sheets, but that would be too loud, and this is right outside my bedroom window. There's another company that makes an asphalt-based corrugated roofing sheet, but from what I've read on the 'net, it's not suitable for anything larger than a garden shed.

So, should I try this PalRuf material again, and use the special purlin strips? Or is there another option of which I'm not yet aware?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378490799.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378490842.jpg

I just couldn't help myself.

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I think you already found the solution!

Unless you add more rafters and supports to go with them, I'd say go with the same material. In the meantime, I'd fix the one spot.

Can you add screws like they want without replacing all sheets? Get more life out of the roof for minimal cost.

This. Standard sheeting and shingles would crush that structure. Assuming they are metal, your roof beams look pretty beefy. But the side posts look very spindly. I fear a windstorm would cause the entire structure to shift and collapse. Why replace the entire roof over a few lost sheets?

and you made a joke about the junk at my shop?

i used galvanized roof sheeting on my garage. it worked great. one of my main considerations was weight. i haven't lost any, yet.

As an aside do whatever is necessary to protect that split window VW bug. :)

The strips are good to use but once you drill these kinds on materials the sun wants to break it as you have found. I have had to move a few screws and silicone the damage. Others I backed off and put a dab of silicone on the screw shaft and ran it back in until there was a bit of squeeze out.

Use a fender washer on the screw and cover it all with a big glob of roofing cement.

use the original stuff again and put some EPDM (rough cut squares) on either side of the sheet.

Yes, but on the hills, not the valleys. He stressed it.

If it were me, I would also go with replacing the original sheets as needed. I would drill a hole for each place I wanted to place a screw (if that's possible in that material without cracking it) and put in a hex head screw that comes with a washer with a rubber or neoprene washer under that (HD or wherever). A little silicone maybe wouldn't hurt either. I don't have a strong opinion about putting them in the ridges or valleys, but I think I'd go for the valleys to keep the amount of flex to a minimum & be careful about not over tightening the screws. Five years isn't a bad amount of time for a structure like that.

I created a little spreadsheet to calculate my materials cost, and to use their special little strips will add about $300 to the project cost.

The other thing I want to do is actually drop the height of the structure by about 6"

Thom, with your skills you can make the molding or strips. You don't need a continuous one either. Cut some rounds with a hole saw and chop them in half.

I can't help you with lowering the whole thing. That just seems like a lot of work.

How about a blow up roof ?

This would be quiet

SunSetter Awnings - Retractable Deck and Patio Awning

;)

Using the closures is a good idea, if you go back with the corrugated. You will also want to run the screws through the highs and not the lows--helps to prevent water intrusion, since the water will run in the lows.
If going through the highs, don't overtighten the fasteners since you can kink the sheets very easily--esp 29 ga.

Use #14 hex head fasteners with neoprene/metal washers if the profile of your corrugated is 1/2" depth, use a 1" or even better 1-1/2" long fastener. You can stick with self-drillers if you like, but I prefer B or AB point self-tappers. You need to drill the pilot holes, and get them in 410 SS instead of 304 and they won't strip as easily. You can use 3/4" A point in 304 SS on the laps.

For superior protection, use butyl tape caulking on your side and butt laps as well.