Help with concrete garage floor.

[Rot 911]

I have a very old carriage house (1926) that is my garage. I have just extended it out 8 feet to make it more usable. However, that extension was over the old concrete driveway pad which is a rough, river rock, surface. I really would like to have a smoother surface inside the garage. Here is a picture of a surface similar to mine. I'm thinking Quikcrete self leveling concrete would get the job done. Your thoughts?

[Rot 911]

Had to resize the image:

[matt f]

Hi Kurt,

When I finished, or in your case refinished, the concrete floor in the garage my balancing act was a floor that was smooth for clean up purposes ,yet had some traction so when wet I didn't slip and fall.

Quickcrete should work as long as no water can ever get between your original rough concrete base and the top application of QC. After it dries you can then assess your traction/friction needs for clean up and safety.

I'm sure some of our contractor friends will post more specifics.
I used a grey finish mixed with a little sand and the provided color chips to provide contrast. Available at Lowe's. Can't remember the product name.
Has lasted 8 years with no issues.

EpoxyCoat was the product.
Approx $400 for an 800 Sq ft. Took about 3 hours to apply.

[javadog]

I would remove that section and put in a new slab.

Not a fan of thin toppings on old concrete.

JR

[Rot 911]

Originally Posted by javadog

I would remove that section and put in a new slab.
Not a fan of thin toppings on old concrete.
JR

I appreciate the comment, but I have already built the extension of the garage. The part I am wanting to resurface is now inside the garage. And I realize what I am wanting to do is not the ideal solution and may have to be redone at some time in the future.

Here is a picture to give you an idea of what I am dealing with:

[look 171]

Try Ardex. We have used their products with great result, still I am not sure about a thin layer over freeze and thaw cycle?

[javadog]

You can still saw-cut and remove it. I do it all of the time.

I'd also be careful about making sure you have decent drainage away from the new walls. The last thing you want is to have water standing around outside the perimeter of the new area and infiltrating underneath the walls. I can't properly judge the grades from the photos but make sure you keep the water out. It looks like both sides might have problems.

JR

[onewhippedpuppy]

We had a thin veneer driveway patch done after some mudjacking last year, it didn't even last through the winter due to the freeze/thaw cycles. A thin veneer of a dissimilar material won't have the same properties as the underlying original driveway, therefore it will likely expand and contract at a different rate as the underlying original driveway. My guess is that it would crack pretty quickly. Lesson learned with our driveway, the fix ended up being worse than the initial problem. I would either have it redone or cover it with some variety of floating floor. There are quite a few options of roll or tile garage flooring that look really good and hold up well to cars, jacks, etc.

[look 171]

Like Javedog said, the best way is to sawcut it and install a new one. After all, its a driveway, so is that where you want to spend your money or just deal with sweeping with a rough bristle broom? I have no experience building anything in cold climates but socal.

[Rot 911]

Thanks for the advice. Water does drain away from both sides of the garage. I'm starting to think some type of floating tile or roll out vinyl, as Matt suggested, might be the best approach.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by javadog

I would remove that section and put in a new slab.

Not a fan of thin toppings on old concrete.

JR

... because they do NOT last

[Bill Douglas]

Another idea is one of those epoxy patio finishes. I often see brouchers around building supply places with pics of surfaces applied over conservatory floors down steps and over paths. It sticks really well to old concrete, is level, and is nice and clean for crawling around under cars.

[javadog]

Originally Posted by Rot 911

Water does drain away from both sides of the garage.

Make sure you have a really good caulk joint at the bottom of all of the walls. I can't see one in the picture. The caulk needs to be of commercial grade, not the cheap crap from the box stores.

JR

[dad911]

You built walls on an old slab with no footings or foundation??

[TimT]

... because they do NOT last

Not true, however the materials and application of suitable thin overlay/wearing surfaces are outside of a homeowners ability. I've been involved in many large scale thin overly projects, granted not all were successful..think Tappan Zee, Mid town tunnel, Willy B, 59th St Br. Kosciusko, Brooklyn Br..

Surface prep of the existing concrete is the most important part for application of thin overlays...shot blasting followed by powerwashing to remove residual dust, then the overlay can be applied....

Something a homeowner would probably not capable of..

Some of the products used for thin overlays....most are not cement based, others are methacrylates, polysulfidies, epoxies etc... mixed with uniform fine aggregates

Transpo

Euclid Flexolith

There are a number of other products out there in addition to these two....

As others have posted....saw cut, remove the existing, pour a new slab...

Products available at Home Depot/Lowes etc... will have a very short service life applied on that slab..

Sidewalk/ driveway replacement goes for around $7/sf to a home owner around here... your costs will vary

[GWN7]

Try the epoxy coating/overlay first. If it works it is a cheap fix.

Another way to fix the problem is strap the inside of the garage and lift it up. Then pour a new slab over the existing. I would also pour curbs for the walls to sit on so you eliminate any water infiltration.

[TimT]

The part I am wanting to resurface is now inside the garage.

Oops missed this on the first read...

On the inside....Those tiles we use to make a work area outside the transporter? Racedeck? something like that might help..

[304065]

Hey Kurt


The creep who helped with my slab let it harden before he finished it. Think quarter inch ripples on what was supposed to be the base for a white epoxy floor you could park a stealth fighter on.

In anger, rage and disgust I mixed up twelve bags of quickcrete. It's better, I don't turn purple with rage every time I see it now, put it's still not right. The stuff chalks, comes off on your boots, comes off with a broom. It should be sealed.

I am going to put quarry tile down like weissach. It is expensive but it is a better surface and an aesthetic winner.

[BeyGon]

I think if you cleaned what you have and poured at least two inches of concrete on it you would be ok. maybe three.

[DanielDudley]

If you built directly on that slab you should not cut it. If you get the right product in the epoxy realm, it will not come off. You obviously saved a lot of money on that extension. Keep thinking along those lines and you will find what you need.