Any ideas for insulating my garage?

[Christien]

I have to drop the engine this winter, and would prefer not to wait until March or April when it warms up, but my garage is very cold, and doesn't hold heat at all. It's a 1.5 car size, with an electric door. The gaps at the side are huge, and the snow blows right in. Here are a couple pics:

[widebody911]

Originally Posted by Christien

I have to drop the engine this winter, and would prefer not to wait until March or April when it warms up, but my garage is very cold, and doesn't hold heat at all. It's a 1.5 car size, with an electric door. The gaps at the side are huge, and the snow blows right in. Here are a couple pics:

Judging by your pix, unicorn fur and pixie dust are probably your best options.

[Christien]

Looking down the right hand side - the door pulls away from the roller track - probably warped after several winters.



Another shot of the same area:



The inside panels, which are pretty thin:



I'm thinking I need to both plug the gaps (obviously) and insulate the wood panels, to keep the heat in. Cosmetics aren't an issue - it's a workroom, not a living room. But the panels do need to crease as the door opens.

[Christien]

Originally Posted by widebody911

Judging by your pix, unicorn fur and pixie dust are probably your best options.

Someone's quick on the reply button...

[GH85Carrera]

I would suggest you use insulation.

[Seahawk]

When I built a shop at one of the old tobacco barns on my farm, I used this stuff, recommended by many others: Radiant Barrier & Bubble Foil Insulation | Innovative Insulation Inc.

It is great for that type of space. I was also worried about mice, humility and moisture, which ruled out more traditional insulation. Once I added some unicorn fur I was good to go.

[DonDavis]

Biggest improvement will be stopping the air from getting in. Do that first. Without seeing the door in action, it'd be tough to recommend a fix. If it gets to be a larger fix than you want to tackle now, you could always put up some temporary plastic taped in place. Do that a day before work begins and get one of those halogen shop lamps, Those things put out some heat.

Then look at door insulation but go with the lightest material your door can handle. There are lots of choices out there. For an older door, maybe batted insulation is the way to go. The pieces can be cut to fit and will flex more easily than the Styrofoam panels.

Good luck!

[JavaBrewer]

From the pictures I would say insulation would be a waste of time until the rolling door situation is addressed. A new insulated metal roll-up door would be the first thing I would do.

[Evans, Marv]

If you can't adjust the door & add rubber seals to seal better, you might be sort of OK with installing rubber, garage door, bottom seal strips along the sides to try to seal it. They are about 3" wide. If looks aren't a factor as you say, I'd get out the ole staple gun, buy the highest R value insulation you can cram in the wall recesses and start at that. You can also put some on the panels of the door. Another possibility for the door is buying the 1 1/2 in. thick, 4' x 8' panels of hard, closed cell foam with the reflective layer on one side. You can cut them into pieces to fit into the panels on the door & glue, screw, or hold them on with furring strips along the backs of the panels.

[stomachmonkey]

That door looks like it needs a lot of work to seal up.

If you won't be opening the garage door during the winter or opening it infrequently I'd nail some floor to ceiling studs to the walls just inside the door then attach a non permeable membrane using velcro so you can get it off easy if you need to.

[J P Stein]

A pannel made of insulating foam sheets with a wood framework to cover the area snugly. On casters to be mobile. Trailerpark engineering at its finest.
I could knock something out in a weekend.

[Scott R]

You have to adjust the gaps out of the door. I watched a garage door guy do it once now I do it myself. Move the rails until you get a perfect seal. If there is still a gap use strip insulation to close it.

[gordner]

my garage was much the same and is warm and toasty now, and I am Canadian! I glued high density foam boards to the back of the door with plastic sheeting convering it all to make up all the between panel cracks, just gave a little extra at each hing and spray glued the plastic in. On the sides, I used an isulated tarp and the reflective bubble foil to make two twelve in wide strips of insulated material. These I velcro over the side rails once the door is closed, they velcro to the inside garage wall, sit across the rails and the gap and then velcro to the door.

Works like a hot damn!

[widebody911]

What I've done in both my shop and garage is styrofoam sheets glued to the door panels, and there is a rubber 'flap' seal available that might be able to make up the gap in the door. However, you should really try to get the door as close as possible and then try to deal with the edges.

[id10t]

Velcro strips down the wall and the door on each side, the reverse velcro on a pair of old sleeping bags, blankets, whatever. If wind is a serious issue, then tarp or visqueen first and then the blanket/bag/whatever.

[will944]

As others have said......address the major gaps and then insulate. Insulation is quick and easy.

I did the same to my barn.....now I just need to decide on a source of heat!!

Scott R should recognize the 951

[72doug2,2S]

For cold garage syndrome, I suggest a portable forced air kerosene heater. Even without insulation it will make working in your garage cozy.

I can't recommend any one brand, but this seems reasonable.

Dyna-Glo Kerosene Forced Air Heater KFA50DGD - 50K BTU

Heaters | Portable Gas, Propane & Kerosene | Dyna-Glo® Kerosene Forced Air Heater KFA50DGD - 50K BTU | 246628 - GlobalIndustrial.com

[Reddog2]

if it is just for the door and temporary for winter, I would look into the garage door blankets (provided you door can support the weight) or insulated construction tarps to hoard it in. This will keep the wind/snow out. Insulated construction tarps likely cheapest.

[GWN7]

If you have room frame a 2 X 2 square frame to fit over the door from the inside. Staple plastic film over one side of the frame and add R12 fiberglass insulation to the middle (you will have to secure the fiberglass to the frame too), then sheet the second side with plastic film. You should be able to slide the frame out of the way by yourself when you need to open the door.

[johnsjmc]

A couple options come to mind.
Use a radiant style heater which will be more efficient even with all the air leaks. Princess auto has a single or double disc shaped unit which goes on your bbq tank. Like a patio heater it will warm you even in a leaky garage.
A new single insulated garage door is about $399 vs. add insulation foam and weatherstipping and adjustment to your existing door.
Once air leakage is reduced then add insulation to walls and ceiling next.