Is this a crazy idea? short ramps/lift

[masraum]

So, I'm not going to buy a lift, at least not yet, and not in this house.

I have a miata which sits really low. I have a low profile aluminum jack and even with that, I can't get the jack under the front end without driving the front tires up on a couple of 2x4s. If I want to lift the front and the back, then I have to drive both ends up onto 2x4s. It's a bit of a pain3. I've been thinking. If I could drive both ends of the car up onto a stack of 2x4s that was 4 or 5 tall, that would probably be enough height to do a lot of work. But then if I had to get in from the sides, the lumber would be in the way. So I've come up with something that may be hair brained, but seems like it should work. I think it would need to be made of 2x8 or 2x10s instead of 2x4s. I would have built in bumps to keep the car from rolling, possibly some sort of edge on the inside edge to keep the car from driving off of the edge, and then the center section would be removable so I could get under the car. The center section would be pinned in place using large bolts or threaded rod.

excuse the crappy drawing done in paint. What do you think? Does it seem safe and sound. Am I missing a big issue? Would it work, but be much improved with some sort of amendment?

the cuts for the ramp end and the bumps wouldn't be 90° as in the drawing. That's more a limitation of paint.


If it's a crappy idea, go ahead, tell me (like I had to worry about you guys holding back )

The only big problem that I can see is the possibility of the car getting driven off of the side.

[Christien]

Use 2x10, or even 2 2x8s side by side, and add rails to the top layer, so you don't drive it off. If it were me building it, I'd want some way to secure it to the garage floor, to stop it from tipping over. Or secured to each other, or some kind of mechanism to prevent tipping. During my last engine drop, I made platforms out of several small lengths of 2x4 for my jackstands. I had all sorts of problems with them tipping, and had to rebuild them several times before they were sturdy enough to get underneath the car.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Christien

Use 2x10, or even 2 2x8s side by side, and add rails to the top layer, so you don't drive it off. If it were me building it, I'd want some way to secure it to the garage floor, to stop it from tipping over. Or secured to each other, or some kind of mechanism to prevent tipping. During my last engine drop, I made platforms out of several small lengths of 2x4 for my jackstands. I had all sorts of problems with them tipping, and had to rebuild them several times before they were sturdy enough to get underneath the car.

Right, I'd thought of the rails, and I forgot to mention it, but I'd also thought of a couple of boards each in between the front and back to keep the width correct. I would probably have those perpendicular pieces easily removable once the car was up.

Thanks, anything else anyone?

[A930Rocket]

The one problem I see is that you'll need a long ramp to transition the car up the ramp to get to the flat upper level, otherwise, the car will bottom out. This will also be required if the front end is low.

It will also be very heavy if using 2x10's.

[enzo1]

Race Ramps Vehicle Lift Products i've been thinking about these but seems pretty expensive?? Maybe some variation of it using the racer ramps to transition the height??

[enzo1]

using this...Custom Trailer Ramps

[masraum]

Race Ramps Vehicle Lift Products i've been thinking about these but seems pretty expensive?? Maybe some variation of it using the racer ramps to transition the height??

That's exactly what I want, but for that price I'd just get a lift.

Wow!

[enzo1]

yeah, but this is removable.... as in different garages(lighter) and out of the way, different(bigger ) cars...etc, the price has been driving me crazy but it works for me...

[VincentVega]

Interesting idea. How much room do you have to store the wood, so it's not in the way? How much would the wood weigh? I bet too much to be practical.

I would just get a used scissor lift, sell it when you move up to a 2 post.

[enzo1]

just saying.... if better, for less ( in this situation), track, all things, i"m all ears...

[Evans, Marv]

Maybe you could use bolts to secure the stack together and put a 3/4" plywood base under it 8 or 10 in. wide in the center part but having one ft. extended out on both sides on the front & back portions to help with stability. By bolting them together you could take them apart if need be, add of subtract if need be, and take the whole thing apart if need be.

[porsche4life]

We basically had to do what is described in the OP to get my cousins lowered mustang on our lift.

Which is why my 944 didn't get any lower than it did. I don't want that hassle!

[tevake]

I don't know but that seems like more trouble and less access than just driving up on a 2x8 to get the jack under then using jack stands.

Cheers Richard

[masraum]

I already have some 2x4s that I use to drive the front and back wheels up on so I can then jack up the front and back of the car. 2x4s aren't that heavy, but it's a valid point that if the "ramps" were twice as high and twice (or more) as wide that the size and weight would be too much to be practical. If you could get something like the "Race Ramps" for $500, I might consider it, but there's no way for $2750.

Thanks all. That solves my dilemna.

[Zeke]

Same dilemma here. the Boxster won't accept a floor jack until raised a little by a cheap as AL race jack. Still, I wouldn't buy a stack of boards to drive on. I'm with tevake

[masraum]

I guess if I'm game to spend the money for a bunch of wood, or think that I'd spend $500 for the Race Ramps thing then I should just buy one of these. This would cover jacking the car without having to drive it up on boards. I've seen one, it's an amazing jack, and I could support Pelican Parts.

PelicanParts.com - Tools > Hydraulic Jacks > AC Hydraulic > Floor Jacks/Jack Stands

$399

The DK20 has an ultra-low minimum height of only 3.15 inches, just the perfect height for stock or lowered vehicles! Maximum jack height of 19.7 inches!

or $539



or $549

DK13HLQ is constructed with a flat inner steel frame so the front 16 inches of the jack has a height of less than 3.5 inches and a maximum lifting height of 29 inches!

I'm not sure what it means, but I'm pretty sure that these things are the bee's knees!

[Christien]

I've got a similar jack to that. It lifts the car almost 3 feet into the air - plenty of room to drop the engine, without having to remove the carbs, or the rear valence. It was on sale locally for $400. The only downside to it is you need jackstands that go as high, or some way of propping up the jackstands. As I was saying above, I didn't love building platforms for them (standard size jackstands) and the next time I drop my engine, I'll be either making better platforms, or buying taller jackstands.

[masraum]

Yeah, I'm not likely to need to lift the car 3' in the air. Since I'm not currently driving a 911, I'm not likely to be dropping my motor out of the bottom of the car. Maybe I need to alter my Christmas list to include these one of these darn expensive jacks. I'm kind of afraid of shipping on a 70-80# jack.

[Christien]

If I can find one locally here, I guarantee you can find one locally there!

[masraum]

Well, it's Chinese, but it looks like there are cheaper options.



Hydraulic jacks, long reach, low profile: Omega 29023 and AC DK13HLQ - Corvette Forum

That thing is available for < $300. It's obviously much more cheaply made, but it seems to work. I just have a heck of a time paying almost $600 (plus shipping) for a jack.