Surf's UP!

[Craig T]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

Craig - the guy in that first video must have landed in what, about two feet of water? Ouch!

Two foot is he was lucky! Closer to 12" is my guess.

That's why I won't ride the Wedge anymore, not even on a sponge board. I was a regular there in my teens and early 20's, but over 50 year-old bones break when the Wedge pile-drives you into the sand. I have personally witnessed two bodysurfers coming out of there with broken necks.

I still go down to Newport to surf short boards with friends, but we're perfectly content between 56 Street and the river jetty's If it get's to big, we head down to Lower Trestles.

[Craig T]

Originally Posted by tevake

Yep, and it looked like he was on his way out when he got tossed up and back to the beach. Tough place.
Big swell, there was a video yesterday of a guy riding from the point thru the pier on a set wave at Malibu
Stay safe!

"A guy"???...That was Laird Hamilton on a paddle board!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOV7mbSrNPk

[Craig T]

[nostatic]

Originally Posted by Craig T

Two foot is he was lucky! Closer to 12" is my guess.

That's why I won't ride the Wedge anymore, not even on a sponge board. I was a regular there in my teens and early 20's, but over 50 year-old bones break when the Wedge pile-drives you into the sand. I have personally witnessed two bodysurfers coming out of there with broken necks.

I still go down to Newport to surf short boards with friends, but we're perfectly content between 56 Street and the river jetty's If it get's to big, we head down to Lower Trestles.

My left rotator cuff is in a permanent state of "no, you can't do that" due to Drainpipes at Zuma. Bounced off the bottom in a shore break barrel back in my late 40's.

Never rode the Wedge but Marine Street was a very similar break. Just not as crazy big, in part due to the outside reef that would go off when it got much over 6'. With that, a thick 5' shore break can have a big barrel and do a lot of body damage...

[nostatic]

Originally Posted by tevake

Yep, and it looked like he was on his way out when he got tossed up and back to the beach. Tough place.

Actually it looked like he was thinking about doing an el rollo then tried to back out. Lack of commitment never ends well at the Wedge...

[Craig T]

Originally Posted by nostatic

My left rotator cuff is in a permanent state of "no, you can't do that" due to Drainpipes at Zuma.

Zuma's deep-to-shallow is too steep, with no sand bars or structure....sand sucking beach break. I never go there. It doesn't really sustain a surf break. The body surfers still love it though.

[motion]

Saw the big wave sets while flying into the LA area yesterday.

[DByers]

Its been a busy week here in Santa Barbara. Customer of mine took this vid of our harbor entrance (Sandspit) I have been finding more remote spots that are a little less crowded.

Wave of the Day - YouTube