What tool do I use to cut this?
 

Construction question:
I am enclosing a porch. I need to cut on the red line to remove the 1/2 sheathing so I can put in drywall. problem is getting into that angle and making a depth cut just deep enough to cut out the sheathing, but not cut into the load bearing beam above the door. A circular saw wont get into that angle. Thoughts? Thanks. Ronhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415662561.jpg

If it was me, and I didn't have one already, I'd spend a few bucks on the HF Multi tool.

Use the circular shaped blade, mark it with a piece of tape to monitor the depth, then change over to one of the straight blades to finish the corners.

Probably less than thirty bucks with a discount coupon...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415663316.jpg

Or, if you're feeling froggy, an old fashioned back-saw and some elbow grease....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415663383.jpg

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/GqQG9OeY3j4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Sawsall.

There's a flush trim saw floor installers use, but it isn't cheap. For that little cut, use a Sawsall

Yeah, but you're a pro. SmileWavy

Cool Dremel saw.

That would take care of most of it the fastest.... then finish off the right corner with a Multi tool.

Chainsaw

http://woodworkessence.com/wp-conten...Brian-Ruth.jpg

Sawzall as mentioned above...

You would age a bit using something like that multi-tool

The Dremel solution looks good..

But since I have a nice Sawzall and a bunch of blades....

I'd look into renting the flush trim saw for flooring. I'd also look at it first to see if it suits your need.

Since that ugly sheathing adds a lot of useful shear and beam strength to the span, you might consider sheetrocking over it then trimming out lower edge. Just my 2 cents.
regards,
Phil

Try this if you aare not comfortable with the Sawsall. King Arthur's Tools 45822 Lancelot 22 tooth, 5/8" center hole - Power Angle Grinders - Amazon.com

It will fit in your 4.5" grinder but you almost have to do it without a guard. Its a great little tool, but I think its a bit dangerous. With a Sawsall, worst is you WILL bent a few blades getting going. Once you get it going, it should go quick. 15 minutes, it should be done.

I have a flush cut saw but I think I like that sir Lancelot thingy better.

Hannibal was filmed in my hometown Richmond Va.- one of my favorites!
I was in dental school when they blew up downtown, and Julian Moore runs across an abandoned trestle that I mountain biked on all the time leading to belle island. Soundtrack was also good in that movie... and biltmore...

Anyway....
Okay, do they make a convex sawzall blade? I kindof remember an "as seen on tv" sawzall blade that cuts all sorts of stuff. Maybe it was convex? I can't find it on google searches.
(This project is getting expensive and I really only want to pay $5- I'm cheap)
I was thinking a HF or NH chinese multitool- but I live in the country and with no nearby stores I would have to pay shipping, and then they would inevitably have a sale on the $39 multi tool a week later for $19 and I'd be pissed! My dad also has one and he can't find it- so yeah- not only would it go on sale, my dad would say "Oh yeah- I found it" right after I bought it.
But then that Dremel....oh yeah.... $100, but it wouldn't get that corner.
I needs me convex saw sall blade.
PS- I about killed myself using a straight sawzall blade cutting the plastic siding from this angle. Holy crap that was a sight- like the ghostbusters shooting their plasma guns all over the place and blowing up the whole hotel!

P.S- Good call on just drywalling over the board, but that thickness would prevent the french door from completely closing against the wall. Also the beam is LVL, so I'm good on strength.

The saws-all would work, but it would be a little tricky to make a neat cut. The dremel saw-max is pretty inexpensive and designed for flush cutting as in the video above (special blade). It will allow you set the depth of cut as well. It is made for folks that are not pros and has other uses around the house.

I would do the last inch or so...in the corner with a drill and a wood chisel after the cut...or back saw.

Yup. Did you remove the sheathing on the rest of the wall? Looks like that door was added later?

Pack out the door jamb 1/2" and rock over the sheathing.

+1
Don't make your life so hard. Drywall up to the sheathing, drywall down from the ceiling to lap over it. Finish it with a piece of J-trim, and get on with your life.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Phillips-Manufacturing-Company-8-ft-x-5-8-in-Vinyl-J-Trim-50-Pack-JT6VYL-8/203116182?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CBase&gclid=CjwKEAiA4YG jBRDOxa3XvfTnvSASJACC3bLBRXkVDg2xpCZ3gK9Y7sujmNVeh u6pB9PmxNH8xHGzRBoC-5Xw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Unless the remainder of the wall has sheathing, he will then have a problem there as well.

I've been here before......Its not very difficult to modify certain circular saws to a zero clearance on one side. Once done its a lot more difficult to return the saw to its original configuration. I made mine from a yard sale $5.00 saw. Wish I still had it, I would take some picks of it for you.

How about your angle grinder ... use a thin cut off blade, set your guard to the req'd depth and cut away.

cant you just score it and snap it off?

i have one of those vibratory saws that would get thru that..but you hands would be numb

Sawzall. If you just get close to the corners you can pry the sheet off, then finish off the remaining corner pieces with a hammer and chisel. If you don't have a Sawzall, it will be worth every penny. The name says it all......

Let me know when you start to do that. I will just drive to another county for the day just to avoid getting hit by your grinder when it pinches and fly off your hand. That's nuts. I know there are many tools out there, some are not so safe and that's one of them.

The trick with a plunge cut on the Sawzall (ahh, that's how its actually spelled? I have never noticed) is to make sure the foot is always in contact with something. Jam the foot onto the OSB and plunge the blade into the material or lift the saw from the back end. Once you get a little spot going, the rest goes pretty easy.

Cut-off tool. You can get them air powered or electrical. Put a wood blade on it and remove the shield (wear glasses when using).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415689124.jpg

If not a good sharp chisel and hammer, what about this Dremel with depth guide?

I think that would work great:

http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/file...0r24931v17.jpg

As usual, The blade I want has been patented, but not produced. It has a very long convex cutting edge,
I did find this and ordered it (cheap) so we'll see.

I like that lancelot thingee. Does it jump/kickback like a chainsaw?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415711589.jpg

Yep...looks a lot safer than most of the suggestions and is designed to make a flush cut (when you put on that blade). There is a video clip of one posted near the top.

In the past i have made a blade like that. its not hard to cut teeth with angle grinder. might take a few times to sharpen it up to do all that but itll work. a vibrating miltitool with a good blade should work good too. we have a Fein Multimaster. harbor freight has a cool grinder wheel that has a chainsaw blade around it. id say that should work too. or just use a chainsaw

This, but I would probably cut the sheathing as close as I could with the circular saw first. That would leave a piece about 1.5" wide sticking down. Once you strap the joists and put drywall up there a piece of cove will cover the small edge of sheathing.

Best
Les

Holy carp that looks like something out of a horror movie!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415721076.jpg

Cut???
The plywood appears to be nailed in place. If that is the case, you'll eventually end up with a nail pulling devise....like a claw hammer/crow bar. There are special tools that will pull the nails.....powered by your basic hammer.

https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=767998


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415724089.jpg

The sad thing is (being a tool addict) that I will most likely end up buying ALL of these tools just to have them, even if the $4 sawzall blade is all I need.
Thanks guys.
Ron

They keep it safe by limiting it to 14000 RPM.

https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/995/0040070/toe-kick-saw/

Toe Kick saw rental - in my zip - $15 for 4 hrs, $21 for a day. And be done with it!