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Is POR15 still the reining champion?

Its been a while since I've had the need for anything encapsulated in POR15 or a similar product. So I guess you could say I'm just not well versed in the industry anymore. I'm restoring my old pickup (not to showroom - just driver) and the frame and underbody need a coating. Must be something I can brush on. And no matter what I put on the frame and underbody with a brush, I will still topcoat with some black paint or maybe even some of that thick roofing stuff. So UV stability is not an issue.

MY PLAN: get the POR15 in silver/gray that has the aluminum particles in it. Brush it on in a medium/thick manner just once. Before brushing I'll use a scotchbrite pad on the frame inside and out and underbody. Frame is C channel so can get all over it. After scotchbrite I will hit it with high pressure air and then brush on the POR. OH and before scotchbrite I will hit it with simple green and water, which has been effective many moons ago with POR15 treatment.

So how does that sound to you? Anything out there that will work better than POR15 plus top coat?

Old 04-06-2015, 10:11 AM
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The pre-wash is the key. Use phosphoric acid.
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:33 PM
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Monstaliner.com

check out the Chassis saver.

Several of the off-road forums rave about this stuff. I plan on using it on a 911 chassis that I am stripping. It's not light sensitive.
Old 04-06-2015, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990C4S View Post
The pre-wash is the key. Use phosphoric acid.
Treatment is key.

(Still a paint newbie here.)
On another project, the Jasco(from the paint supply store) phosphoric acid instructions said to rinse off before painting. When I did there was a thin layer of new surface rust. Optimal painting conditions were present. Still don't know what I did wrong.

On the Pcar about ten years ago I used the Por15 metalready product then Por15 and got good results. Not sure what is different with that product. Brushing it on was a bear.

Por15 is a plastic paint and doesn't treat the rust. It only coats it from additional oxygen and water exposure. As a test I painted a dab on a rusted underside and it peeled off after a year. A complete sealing coat will probably work best.
I did get a bad lumpy batch one spring which might have frozen over winter.

Wear eye glasses and a respirator as a minimum. That stuff sticks to everything.
Old 04-06-2015, 04:01 PM
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That stuff sticks to everything.
Hootus protection required.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:36 PM
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(might need disclaimer for use as "personal lubricant")
Old 04-06-2015, 04:40 PM
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POR 15 is still the best IMO.

It's not new. The Navy have been using similar products to paint their ships for a long time.
That is they go off and get harder with exposure to moisture not evaporation. Ask any ex Navy guy about "chipping".

The prep, Clean, Treat then Paint. To get a top coats to stick you have to use a tie coat primer.
It's worth the extra trouble because I've never seen POR 15 fail.
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:07 PM
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Awesome! So pOR15 it is. And actually I think I'll go with just semi glass black and call it a day. I do believe to top coat I must do it while the POR is still a little tacky? Such as the day after?
Old 04-07-2015, 05:13 AM
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According to AQHA, Andrea Fappani is the current reining champion

AQHA World Championship Show: Senior Reining
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:43 AM
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POR also makes a gloss top coat (spray can) which after trying so many other high gloss spray paints - this one is durable, goes on nice w/o running or splattering - really holds the shine.
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:20 AM
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rust is alive
you must kill it
then seal off water and air from the metal

Old 04-07-2015, 08:20 AM
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